> see ya 
Thinking about canceling...but when?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 319
Likes: 180
2020 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Thinking about canceling...but when?
I’m thinking about pulling back my deposit. Money isn’t an issue, but after looking at the pricing for the convertible I want, a car for nearly $100k is so much scratch. Feels like if I’m going to spend that much I should spend it on a higher performance model.
However...should I just put the order in with my dealer anyway? I could always pull back before signing, although that would be a dick move. I like my dealer and want to keep that relationship sound.
First world problems. What do ya’ll think?
However...should I just put the order in with my dealer anyway? I could always pull back before signing, although that would be a dick move. I like my dealer and want to keep that relationship sound.
First world problems. What do ya’ll think?
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,083
Likes: 3,869
From: Bonita Springs FL
I’m thinking about pulling back my deposit. Money isn’t an issue, but after looking at the pricing for the convertible I want, a car for nearly $100k is so much scratch. Feels like if I’m going to spend that much I should spend it on a higher performance model.
However...should I just put the order in with my dealer anyway? I could always pull back before signing, although that would be a dick move. I like my dealer and want to keep that relationship sound.
First world problems. What do ya’ll think?
However...should I just put the order in with my dealer anyway? I could always pull back before signing, although that would be a dick move. I like my dealer and want to keep that relationship sound.
First world problems. What do ya’ll think?
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 371
Likes: 223
From: Charlotte, NC
Pull your deposit, put it, and any other money you have saved up for a down payment into an interest bearing account of your choice. Keep adding money to it as if you were making a payment.
When the car you really want shows up, then pull your money out and pay as much as you can up front. No sense in paying interest on a depreciating asset.
Heck, if you're lucky, a lightly used model will become available and you can just pay for it outright and (maybe) have some money left over for mods down the road (or...you know...travel, education, retirement, etc).
When the car you really want shows up, then pull your money out and pay as much as you can up front. No sense in paying interest on a depreciating asset.
Heck, if you're lucky, a lightly used model will become available and you can just pay for it outright and (maybe) have some money left over for mods down the road (or...you know...travel, education, retirement, etc).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,363
Likes: 4,108
From: New England
Agreed, talk to the dealer. Based on spec they may be fine with you pulling out and they will likely just add an ADM and try to sell it off the lot.
Otherwise, I agree with you 100%. If your looking at $100K just wait for the Z06, buying now and selling later for a Z06 means you will be taking a $20K+ hit most likely.
Otherwise, I agree with you 100%. If your looking at $100K just wait for the Z06, buying now and selling later for a Z06 means you will be taking a $20K+ hit most likely.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 1,659
From: Las Vegas NV
I think your logic is sound. I don't think I'd want to spend $100k on a base model. Wait and get the one you really want.*
*Unless money is no object, then just buy and sell whenever and take the hit.
*Unless money is no object, then just buy and sell whenever and take the hit.
Corvette fan
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 224
From: Auburn NY
You should always get what you want. Just remember that if you buy a Stingray and trade it in for a Z06, you will lose money on the Stingray and probably pay sticker for the Z06. I have done just that so I speak from experience. I can afford it so I didn't really sweat it, but knew that financial advisors would not give me an A rating. Didn't care. Enjoyed the hell out of both of them. Now I own a 2019 Z06 that I am really happy with.
This time around I am not so excited about the 2020 Stingray. Definitely will wait to see what happens as more models appear.
This time around I am not so excited about the 2020 Stingray. Definitely will wait to see what happens as more models appear.
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,934
Likes: 4,257
From: NC
Agreed, talk to the dealer. Based on spec they may be fine with you pulling out and they will likely just add an ADM and try to sell it off the lot.
Otherwise, I agree with you 100%. If your looking at $100K just wait for the Z06, buying now and selling later for a Z06 means you will be taking a $20K+ hit most likely.
Otherwise, I agree with you 100%. If your looking at $100K just wait for the Z06, buying now and selling later for a Z06 means you will be taking a $20K+ hit most likely.
Stripper Z06 or loaded to the gills base car?
Last edited by jimmyb; Nov 6, 2019 at 11:25 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 1,659
From: Las Vegas NV
Speaking only for myself, I'd MUCH rather have a "base performance model" than a "loaded base model", no question.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 844
Likes: 729
From: Desert
I’m thinking about pulling back my deposit. Money isn’t an issue, but after looking at the pricing for the convertible I want, a car for nearly $100k is so much scratch. Feels like if I’m going to spend that much I should spend it on a higher performance model.
However...should I just put the order in with my dealer anyway? I could always pull back before signing, although that would be a dick move. I like my dealer and want to keep that relationship sound.
First world problems. What do ya’ll think?
However...should I just put the order in with my dealer anyway? I could always pull back before signing, although that would be a dick move. I like my dealer and want to keep that relationship sound.
First world problems. What do ya’ll think?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 862
From: Philadelphia Suburbs
Since when did 0-60 mph in 2.8 seconds not qualify for "performance?" Frankly, I always considered anything under 6 seconds pretty darn fast. I realize you all are not only referring to 0-60 times, but come on!
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 371
Likes: 223
From: Charlotte, NC
Back when musclecars ruled, horsepower (actually...torque) meant something because the most you could get out of a factory car was 425-460 for the Hemi and LS6 beasts. 12 second cars were considered stupid quick. There was plenty of room for upward mobility in those horsepower wars. When you couple that with the fact that handling was a non-issue, making your car hook up was the only concern if you were going to go above and beyond the factory numbers. Traction bars, pinion snubbers, slant 6 torsion bars (in the Mopars), etc. weight transfer was king.
Nowadays, horsepower has rapidly gone beyond the point of diminishing returns and is really now all about dick-measuring. The continued use of 0-60 as a metric should have become obsolete years ago, but we continue using it.
Take a Z06 and a Z51 back to back down the Tail of the Dragon (or any road course, really) and see how the times compare. My guess is that you will see minimal real-world returns for the additional cash outlay.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 1,659
From: Las Vegas NV
Shirley, you are not suggesting that there won't be significantly different performance levels between Stingray and Z06, just because they are both 'performance' cars?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,363
Likes: 4,108
From: New England
Well.. It's much more than just straight line speed. Obviously more horsepower, better brakes, better handling, and wide body. The Z06 comes standard with magride, HUD, etc for the C7 and assuming it will be similar for C8 . Wide body, to me, looks really good on the C8.
Z06 will hold it's value better too. I see the OP's point but it comes down to waiting. Z06 is going to be 12-18 months away likely. For most people it could be 2 years.
Z06 will hold it's value better too. I see the OP's point but it comes down to waiting. Z06 is going to be 12-18 months away likely. For most people it could be 2 years.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 5,951
Likes: 952
From: Stockton, ca
It's a rough choice. I just saw a 2016 yellow z06 in the next city with 23k miles for $56k. That's 17k I would save. But I don't know if I could live knowing a C8 would smoke me the first 60ft and then warranty issues, then heat soak then a8 issues. It looks bad a@@ though.. 
Ahhhhhh
Ahhhhhh
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,517
Likes: 928
From: Alaska
It's all about bragging rights.
Back when musclecars ruled, horsepower (actually...torque) meant something because the most you could get out of a factory car was 425-460 for the Hemi and LS6 beasts. 12 second cars were considered stupid quick. There was plenty of room for upward mobility in those horsepower wars. When you couple that with the fact that handling was a non-issue, making your car hook up was the only concern if you were going to go above and beyond the factory numbers. Traction bars, pinion snubbers, slant 6 torsion bars (in the Mopars), etc. weight transfer was king.
Nowadays, horsepower has rapidly gone beyond the point of diminishing returns and is really now all about dick-measuring. The continued use of 0-60 as a metric should have become obsolete years ago, but we continue using it.
Take a Z06 and a Z51 back to back down the Tail of the Dragon (or any road course, really) and see how the times compare. My guess is that you will see minimal real-world returns for the additional cash outlay.
Back when musclecars ruled, horsepower (actually...torque) meant something because the most you could get out of a factory car was 425-460 for the Hemi and LS6 beasts. 12 second cars were considered stupid quick. There was plenty of room for upward mobility in those horsepower wars. When you couple that with the fact that handling was a non-issue, making your car hook up was the only concern if you were going to go above and beyond the factory numbers. Traction bars, pinion snubbers, slant 6 torsion bars (in the Mopars), etc. weight transfer was king.
Nowadays, horsepower has rapidly gone beyond the point of diminishing returns and is really now all about dick-measuring. The continued use of 0-60 as a metric should have become obsolete years ago, but we continue using it.
Take a Z06 and a Z51 back to back down the Tail of the Dragon (or any road course, really) and see how the times compare. My guess is that you will see minimal real-world returns for the additional cash outlay.
On a twisty road with a run of the mill sports car and limited straights the drivers ability is usually way more important than the ride he/she is in.
