Jack stand placement





Funny while you were posting I modified my Jack Location Pic since I used the wrong word, "A Frame" when referring to the lower suspension "A Arm!" Note my Edit was posted 11:03 after modifying my Pic and you posted 10:56
BUT if like the OEM I would use a Stanchion under the front wheel and a Jack Stand under the "A Arm." I have used that location on my C7. However could also remove the air deflector panels as GM suggests, they are just bolted on. Would not want to do that every time I needed to use jack stands but in this case would not take that much extra time. When I watched the OEM Side Skirt Install video that one fastener in the back appeared to be placed in a poor location for install. We'll see if C7 Carbon moved it somewhat making access easier. But if it's the same, one way or the other I'll lift so nothing is in the way, even if it requires removing the air deflection panels.
I also ordered from C7 Carbon in San Diego. I ordered the Carbon Fiber 5VM set, which is the skirts as well as the front splitter. I had a set of their GTX in Carbon Fiber on our '16 Stingray, and then removed them and installed them on our '17 GS as I liked them so well. They were like jewelry !!!!
I was assuming their instructions would be similar to the GM ones, since the part should be nearly identical in size and shape. I had looked at the GM installation instructions to see that you need to remove the rear wheel, and partially open the inner fender liner. On the passenger side, you have to temporarily move the DCT control box out of the way. Much of that is so you can drill the larger hole, through the outside of the painted lower side panel for bolting the "wing" to the panel. Like you say, perhaps C7 Carbon will come up with a less invasive installation. Maybe just from the rocker panel underneath, like the C7 was.
I don't own a Quick Jack, but thought about getting one. As this will be one of the first mods I do, installing the 5VM kit from C7 Carbon, I was just planning on doing it with a floor jack, jack stands, and homemade stanchions for under the tires. Other than the 2 per side jacking locations, I don't want to have to remove under car panels jut to expose front or rear center safe lifting locations. Hopefully, the lower A arms are a safe location.
Funny, regarding the comment on "A frame" VS "A arm", I never gave it a second thought...... I pictured A ARM in my mind.
Here's the '31 Model A Vicky I built from the ground up back in the early 90's..
https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/...ack-floor-jack
I am still waiting to see what the clearance is from the ground to the jacking points to see if this jack will work.
Last edited by Foosh; Jul 16, 2020 at 09:56 AM. Reason: typo
I'll use stanchions were they work and a jack stand on a lower "A Arm" occasionally. In this case may have to remove the panels. Will use stanchions under the wheels to gain access to remove them.
Last edited by JerryU; Jul 16, 2020 at 09:56 AM.
I also ordered from C7 Carbon in San Diego. I ordered the Carbon Fiber 5VM set, which is the skirts as well as the front splitter. I had a set of their GTX in Carbon Fiber on our '16 Stingray, and then removed them and installed them on our '17 GS as I liked them so well. They were like jewelry !!!!
I was assuming their instructions would be similar to the GM ones, since the part should be nearly identical in size and shape. I had looked at the GM installation instructions to see that you need to remove the rear wheel, and partially open the inner fender liner. On the passenger side, you have to temporarily move the DCT control box out of the way. Much of that is so you can drill the larger hole, through the outside of the painted lower side panel for bolting the "wing" to the panel. Like you say, perhaps C7 Carbon will come up with a less invasive installation. Maybe just from the rocker panel underneath, like the C7 was.
I don't own a Quick Jack, but thought about getting one. As this will be one of the first mods I do, installing the 5VM kit from C7 Carbon, I was just planning on doing it with a floor jack, jack stands, and homemade stanchions for under the tires. Other than the 2 per side jacking locations, I don't want to have to remove under car panels jut to expose front or rear center safe lifting locations. Hopefully, the lower A arms are a safe location.
Funny, regarding the comment on "A frame" VS "A arm", I never gave it a second thought...... I pictured A ARM in my mind.
Here's the '31 Model A Vicky I built from the ground up back in the early 90's..
PS: Have that same drip pan under my Street Rod! The trans tailshaft seal leaks a little! After 20 years on a TH400 who's case as from the 1960s have to expect a little!
We'll see what their instructions show, which will be available before I get the product OR unfortunately my Event 3000 C8!
Last edited by JerryU; Jul 16, 2020 at 10:08 AM.
No panels needed to be removed and there was not a tipping issue as the jack stand was placed in the proper location.
It worked great for me.
No panels needed to be removed and there was not a tipping issue as the jack stand was placed in the proper location.
It worked great for me.
how long did you leave your car up on the four jack stands.
And are those Harbor freight stands?
I know this doesn't help if you need all 4 jacking points up on jackstands.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I know this doesn't help if you need all 4 jacking points up on jackstands.
1. is it safe to lift on those unofficial circle locations?
2. Is it safe use wood blocks to support the lift arm of a floor Jack?














