I have looked at the owner's manual (pages 212 & 213) and it displays lifting points, but not where to place jack stands.
Does anyone have an illustration of recommended locations?

 

Lift points are the jackstand points which is why a quick jack makes so much sense for the C8.

 

It doesn't make sense for me personally to invest in a Quick Jack, as it would only be needed perhaps once or twice a year.

 

Use jacking pucks at the lifting points. I plan on using 2 floor jacks and pucks at the same time.

2021 Z51 accelerate status=0

 

Try a u-jack.
https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/...ack-floor-jack
I am still waiting to see what the clearance is from the ground to the jacking points to see if this jack will work.

 

On my C6Z with the jacking pucks in place, I jack on the back puck on one side, place the jack stand under the front puck and put a 4" solid cinder block under the rear tire, do the other side and then go to the back and jack up the rear using a 4x4 about 30" long on my jack to lift on the cross-member, then put jack stands under the rear pucks. I suspect something similar would work on the C8, but putting the jack stands under the back pucks and jack up under the front to place the jack stands on the front pucks..

I now usually use my QJ5000 which is very convenient, would probably buy the extensions if I had a C8.

 

Here is my lifting Pic with GM suggestions for jack stands:



Note my comments, as rather than remove the underbody panels as GM suggests I'll place jack stands under the lower "A Arms close to the wheel." As I often do now I will keep the jack on the frame jack pad with some tension and use the jack stand more as security. I never use jack stands on both ends of the car and if both ends need lifting will use my wood stanchions. Where I normally put the stanchions under say, both rear wheels, when I install the side skirts on my C8 will use those on one side under that front and rear wheel. Need access to the full rocker panel.

 

C8 cradles are sealed and covered. It’s not like the C5/6/7.

 

Re Post #7, 90% of the time I lift the car is to change wheels/brakes for track use and back so wheels off. Would probably do Post 6 but take either front or rear panel off on a C8. I always use jack stands, mostly 4 at a time. I would never count on the jack as a sole point for more than 1-2 minutes and usually not even then. I trust jack stands far more than jacks for security.

 

Pretty annoying to have to try and remove the undertrays laying on the ground just to lift the car up.

My plan for wheels and tires is to use two 2-ton floor jacks per side.

 

Those safety stops are pretty slick. I’ve never seen those before, great idea.

I think I’ll try the U-Jack mentioned above and use jack stands though.

 

Jack stands with a “T top” don’t play nice with jacking pucks. I always used T-top stands on my C5 cradles and then on my C7 cradles with a poly protector pad due to how the C7 cradle was cast and hollow. Using them from the side was never stable for me. They make stands with a round flat cup top to accept pucks. Always use rubber or poly pucks as metal ones can side at jacking angles. Metal ones are really made for actual lifts.

 

Jerry,

I'm also thinking through the best method to safely jack up the car to install 5VM side skirts. From the instructions I've seen, the rear wheels needs to be removed to secure the side skirt. Yes, I would do one side at a time, but still leaves too many questions. Especially on the passenger side, as you have to temporarily move the DCT computer box out of the way. So having the car sit on the tire stanchions at the rear tire won't work. Also can't have a floor jack in there at the proper jacking location, as you need to install the side skirt and the jack will be right in the way. Sort of hard to picture all of this without my car yet, but trying to think it through.

Also, wondering how one jacks up the car to access the under car panels. Need to jack it up to be able to get under it. Sort of like the Chicken or the egg thing.

Even if I had a Quick Jack, that would be right in the way of installing side skirts too.

Richard

 

I'm getting the C7 Carbon Side Skirts NOT the OEM. I called C7 Carbon last week to see if they had instructions for their Side Skirts versus those for the OEM. They said they will be posted in 10 to 15 days. Having installed full length side skirts on my 2014 Z51 I drilled only on the bottom rocker panels. Was hoping C7 Carbon were designed to do the something similar . I'm not sure if "Quick Jack" would not be on the way of drilling holes and installing rivets.

Funny while you were posting I modified my Jack Location Pic since I used the wrong word, "A Frame" when referring to the lower suspension "A Arm!" Note my Edit was posted 11:03 after modifying my Pic and you posted 10:56

BUT if like the OEM I would use a Stanchion under the front wheel and a Jack Stand under the "A Arm." I have used that location on my C7. However could also remove the air deflector panels as GM suggests, they are just bolted on. Would not want to do that every time I needed to use jack stands but in this case would not take that much extra time. When I watched the OEM Side Skirt Install video that one fastener in the back appeared to be placed in a poor location for install. We'll see if C7 Carbon moved it somewhat making access easier. But if it's the same, one way or the other I'll lift so nothing is in the way, even if it requires removing the air deflection panels.

 

Made a new Lift Suggestion Pic to be clear about the "possible" use of Jack Stands on the lower "A Arm Suspension," near the wheel or with the wheel removed. Note I use the yellow rugged flexible plastic pads on my jack stands to protect the car, spread the load and provide better grip. Purchased many years ago but checked Amazon and there are similar.

 

One safety thought! I would never use Jack Stands on both ends of the car. See warning on one of my several pair. I use the wood stanchions I made for ~$10 but you can buy them. I even have a set of 4 that raise the car 12 inches that I used when building my street rod but they took a several step jacking proceedure to get that high. Fine when I worked under the car for several months!

 

same way as my C7

 

Never seen the control arm as an approved stand location in any C7 docs? They’re hollow cast. Additionally, that won’t let the suspension droop fully for room to do a myriad of things.

 

Used many times! The cross members on a C7 are also hollow! GM says can be used with a pad. BUT you can always remove what GM calls aero panels and put jack stands on that "hollow cross member" as GM suggests and I show in my post!

 

Yes I used the cradles with stand pads on my C7 all the time, but having to remove the underbody panel every time is not something I am going to do. I'm buying a quickjack for real work and will use my jacks with the jack lock for wheels/tires/brakes.