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I noticed mine was more than normal warm when it finally finished and in float mode. The 4.3 is the max output amperage. What many (99%) don't realize is that it is the battery determining the output of the charger NOT the other way around. The problem is when the battery is not calling for anything, the charger doesn't shut off and the charger continues at (its) low power indefinitely. That's where the damage starts. I was surprised that the CTEK was as warm as it was when I picked it up. Most are not that warm. The CTEK may have some circuitry running behind the scenes generating extra warmth.
The problem is when the battery is not calling for anything, the charger doesn't shut off and the charger continues at (its) low power indefinitely. That's where the damage starts.
Is that something unique to the C-Tek? Reason I ask is I have a Shumacher and a Viking trickle charger and if you plug them in and put a multi-meter on the outputs you get 'zero' reading. The manuals state that they only turn on and provide output when they see a load such as a drained battery.
I noticed mine was more than normal warm when it finally finished and in float mode. The 4.3 is the max output amperage. What many (99%) don't realize is that it is the battery determining the output of the charger NOT the other way around. The problem is when the battery is not calling for anything, the charger doesn't shut off and the charger continues at (its) low power indefinitely. That's where the damage starts. I was surprised that the CTEK was as warm as it was when I picked it up. Most are not that warm. The CTEK may have some circuitry running behind the scenes generating extra warmth.
That's what I'm trying to determine. As DSOMrulz said, the Battery Tender™ (BT) claims to drop to 0.1a when a battery is fully charged and is not warm to the touch.
I've used BTs for about 20 years on everything, and only in the last couple of years purchased the CTEKs. I've never had a battery failure or discharged battery in that period of time, but then again, I've almost always replaced them after 5 years or so.
Unless you have a dedicated "inline" meter capable of measuring millivolts and miliamps, whatever one us using will probably read 0 amps and crude raw averaged voltage.
I once installed a capacitor across a 120/240 ac generator connected to an inverter capable of 150 amp charging. On shore power, the inverter production was at full output (150 amos) when needed, but running the inverter on the generator (btw not a HF cheapie, a dedicated $10,000 diesel version) the output swung from 20 to 80 amps constantly and erratically, averaging out to apx 40/hour. Installing a $10 capacitor across the generator output leads enabled a solid 120 amps/hour. There was no sound difference you could detect. Without the proper instruments, one would never know. Except a normal 1-2 hour recharge would take 8-12 hours or more. Other factors kick in too at low amperage charge - another discussion.
Don't ask me why they never had the capacitor installed. That is generator 101. Probably some accountant saving $0.50. Sounds conciergeish to me.
Mine does get warm but never hot and I leave it plugged in all the time and will continue to do so. Battery has lasted over 6 years and 44,400 miles on my C6. We shall see on the next Vette.
Last edited by Vet Interested; Sep 25, 2020 at 06:11 PM.
Location has a definite impact too. Warm wx states kill batteries. Most think of the cold, but that is when they are in the process dying. The cold brings out the symptoms and death without hesitation. The warmth makes it linger like a cold before it croaks. The difference is the warmth reduces the lifespan. I put temperature compensation input into the regulation on all of my charging sources. When it's cold, output can increase substantially.
This battery tender I bought @ Walmart Supercenter automotive parts dept. 2+ years ago. It's got the alligator clamps to attach to battery terminals. It has a Green light indicator lit, when charging. It cycles on/off, and is room temperature when not 'on.' It was like $12.00. It's on my '06 Mercedes-Benz turbodiesel sedan
Hi all - didn't see this answered here:
About to put the C8 to sleep for the winter, got the CTEK corvette charger, question on the frunk - are you closing the frunk all the way or just to the first click or what?
Amwondering if not "double click" latching it all the way will screw with the alarm or leave lights on or such.
But I also don't want to pinch the charger cord or dimple the seal around the frunk.
