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After 258 miles, my first bug. Went to the store for groceries, came out, opened the trunk, put some groceries in, saving the cold stuff for the frunk. Hit the switch under the headlight, got light blinking signal, but no solenoid click, tried the fob, then tried the driver door release. Nothing.
So, got all groceries in the back, started the car and received a warning, saying front trunk open. It wasn’t, so figured I’d just drive home slowly and home wasn’t far from the store. Whelp, the car made sure I did that, as it limits the speed to 26 mph. Not fun, when trying to get out on the service road and traffic. You can get to 26 real fast, but that’s it, so some people aren’t too happy about getting behind a slow car.
i got home, went to the manual to find the cable release, which is to the left of the brake pedal, but back a little and tucked up on the left nearer the left foot rest and just visible at the bottom dash cover. Pulled it twice to release the hood, opened, closed and reset the system. It worked to reset, but either the connection to the frunk release solenoid is bad or the solenoid itself is bad. I hope this will be my only issue, but if not, oh well, still love the car.
1. Frunk won’t open.
2. Car thinks it is, so won’t go faster than 26 mph.
3. Emergency open cable is under dash up near the foot rest, open and close frunk, to reset system.
4. Applicable fuse block is behind the glove box.
5. Pp 239-240 instructions suck as to show clearly how to remove glove box, for dummies like me.
6. Fuse #18 - 20a is good, so will need to take it in for service.
If you ever need to get to that particular fuse block, you may want to do a dry run first.
The glove box damper is visible on the right side toward the bottom. (First photo below) It doesn’t take much force to push that damper ring outward to unhook. I used the screwdriver to pop it off. (Push it to the right)
There are 3/8” square limiting tabs on either side of the glove box. (Second and third photos) Simply lightly push the glove box side in with a screwdriver on both sides to release the glove box and it will drop down. Bam, the fuse box cover is visible and can easily be taken off.
Did the dealer pull fuse 18? The reason I ask is after I pulled my fuse 18 at the dealership before taking it home, it had the warning message until I cycled the latch position switch and like you it reset. My warning came on after I tried to open it after the fuse was pulled as a test to make sure I had pulled the correct one.
Last edited by Phil1098; Oct 10, 2020 at 02:50 PM.
Did the dealer pull fuse 18? The reason I ask is after I pulled my fuse 18 at the dealership before taking it home, it had the warning message until I cycled the latch position switch and like you it reset. My warning came on after I tried to open it after the fuse was pulled as a test to make sure I had pulled the correct one.
Thanks for the info Phil. I am going to check that fuse to see if it blew. I had opened the frunk a few times when I first got it, so knew it worked. After my chores, I’ll check the fuse and report back. Love this forum!
1. Frunk won’t open.
2. Car thinks it is, so won’t go faster than 26 mph.
3. Emergency open cable is under dash up near the foot rest, open and close frunk, to reset system.
4. Applicable fuse block is behind the glove box.
5. Pp 239-240 instructions suck as to show clearly how to remove glove box, for dummies like me.
6. Fuse #18 - 20a is good, so will need to take it in for service.
If you ever need to get to that particular fuse block, you may want to do a dry run first.
The glove box damper is visible on the right side toward the bottom. (First photo below) It doesn’t take much force to push that damper ring outward to unhook. I used the screwdriver to pop it off. (Push it to the right)
There are 3/8” square limiting tabs on either side of the glove box. (Second and third photos) Simply lightly push the glove box side in with a screwdriver on both sides to release the glove box and it will drop down. Bam, the fuse box cover is visible and can easily be taken off.
Whelp, I dropped it off on 10/12, they found that the unlatching mechanism had a short and had to order one. They called me yesterday saying the part was in, so I took it back today and should get it back, in good working order tomorrow. My dealer has been great to work with, so far.
It seems to me there are a fair number of these frunk release solenoids failing. Several reported on the other forum too. Fortunately being fixed under warranty, but a pain to have to take it in.
Question: You have made no reference as to if you tried to use Key to open Frunk. Did you try that? If not, why not
I've never tried to open the Frunk with the nose button since NCM orientation.. To me one short, one long pushing Key's' Button is easier for this Old Man. Rear engine cover, I use both, as I don't have to bend over to do it. Easy to remember it's under the "E" in CORVETTE lettering. also.
Maybe I should try an see if using Hood' nose switch a few times, it fails, but doesn't when I only use the Key Fob button all the time.
Nose Button may be what's causing the Relay(s) to fail due to shorting of Nose Button,
Last edited by Poorhousenext; Dec 23, 2020 at 09:41 AM.
Question: You have made no reference as to if you tried to use Key to open Frunk.,
I tried both key fobs, the interior release, and the front bumper button...many times. There is no sound indicating the release actuator is making any attempt to operate the latch.
Last edited by 4chin500; Dec 23, 2020 at 10:33 AM.
I tried both key fobs, the interior release, and the front bumper button...many times. There is no sound indicating the release actuator is making any attempt to operate the latch.
Same here, tried all 3 access initiators. Lights blinked, but no sound. Service manager claimed an intermittent short in the release mechanism. One interesting design is that the emergency release cable under dash goes to the latch mechanism to manually pull the actuator arm for release. Life would have been simpler if they had just made the frunk a manual release and skipped the electronics.
My First Glitch
