This shows the jacking points, but where do you put the jackstands? I’ve seen posts where they suggest you takeoff the underbody panels. But to do that you need the car jacked up. How are other people handling this?

 

I know Jerry is going to give me fist for saying this, but I put the stand at the round hole after lifting the car at the oval hole (where I installed the lift pucks) first, and had no problem at all. The owners manual only said that do no lift with the jack contacting the vehicle body:
"Use only a service jack with a lifting pad diameter of 64 mm (2.5 in) or smaller, and thick enough to make sure the jack does not contact the vehicle body. Position the service jack and lifting pad under the frame rail shipping slot reinforcement."

From what I could observe, the round hole is on the same steel frame as the puck hole - only a few inches back, so maybe Jerry can explain why we can't use the round hole for stands... maybe there's something more being said in the Service Manual that's not in the Owners Manual.

 

Might be due to a c.g. location/tipping/stability issue with those locations being closer to the center. The rear one might act as a pivot point with all the engine weight behind it.

 

Jack stands scare me. I used 2 x 10s that I built 3 high with 45 degree edges on them that at times I can drive off..

 

The proper lift point is also the proper Jack stand point. I bought Jackpoint jack-stands. Renn stands will also work. A lot of people have Quickjacks. If you are not removing the wheels, wheel cribs will work. I also built a set of wheel cribs. RaceRamps also makes wheel cribs.

 

Wheel cribs is a great idea, and yours looks are well done! I saw JerryU mentioned that he also uses something similar to put under the wheels or car. I'll make a set too using lumber word following you guys ideas.

Totally agree that just using stands is risky. In the past I typically use both floor lift and stands together just in case one fails, but I'll adopt the extra wheel crib approach. I have a neighbor down the street recently worked under his BMW and the car fell on him. Fortunately he only hurt his legs. Given C8 has a less clearance under the car, I'd imagine that if it falls on us, it would be more than just the legs get hurt.

 

I bought a set of RennStand by Safe Jack. You jack the car up using the RennJack top horizontal bar on top of your floor jack then install the legs to horizon bar. So it's putting the jack stand in the same spot as the floor jack at the same time.

Google it..... VERY high quality product. I bought a pair of them. Happy customer. Solves the problem of jacking the car in the exact same spot where the jack stand needs to go.

I'd put a link to it, but since they aren't a paid vendor, I don't believe I should.

 

Just ordered a "Quick Jack" setup from Costco:
​​​​​​https://www.costco.com/.product.100460313.html

 

I like the concept!

 

I believe this is the standard size and the C8 really needs the extended version. Others have posted about having to add extenders because they have the standard size. There's an XL version that fits the C8.

 

Thank you for the heads up.

I just posted another thread asking if anyone has the spread dimension.

 

I too, believe in redundant support when working under the car - you can see below I'm using wheel cribs, I've left the floor jack in place, and I have jack stands placed under the A-arms (no pressure on them).

 

Jerry made another pic because a poster said GM never said they were lift points just support locations. Perhaps semantics but also put in a caution. No question in my mind that with those large frame castings etc. I would find a safe place to put jack stands, BUT here is the catch 22! To use any frame members to support the car with jack stands you have to remove the aero panels. They are held on with bolts. So how do you safely remove the bolts? I have a proposal I put in my brake pad replacement PDF if you want to remove the calipers. That requires a high lift and the use of 155 ft-lbs to remove and tighten the two large caliper bolts. I would NOT do that with just jacks supporting the car.

Revised pic. Frankly if it didn't have to be jacked very high I would use the lower "A" frame supported with jack stands.


To remove the aero panel bolts I would first put the front wheels on my home made wood stanchions I have used for ~7 years.


Then if for whatever reason the GM suggestions in yellow on their diagram did not work for the specific application, I'd fine 2 spots on that complex aluminum frame to put jack stands.

 

Would putting jack stands under the Quick Jack itself be considered a reasonable redundant support as well? Since my sons sometimes work with me I am always looking to be overly cautious.

 

Hope you ordered the XL version. The standard version is a little short, but can be used.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...es-and-no.html

 

Problem with products that lift from the side, in addition to cost and weight is some application require that area to be free! For example my side skirt install. I find stanchions work well in that case. Mine cost ~$10 to build. They weight about 10 lbs each and are easy to store! I use on one end of the car as would NOT get under a car with jack stands on both ends

 

Jerry can only say in the rear it appears very critical. And that is actually a big difference in location of the oval and round frame member regarding lifting. There was a Conti video that said his smart tech mistakenly used the rear round holes and was going to put a transmission jack in the rear center to support the car because it was rocking! Got my attention since his tech is very smart. Turns out in a subsequent video he said they just said that for effect.

However in another video with the car jacked he did not use jack pads but relied on the round pads on his post lift. That had me even more concerned, perhaps not for him but for the average tech who could easily pit lift end pads OUTSIDE the frame on an area that "looks" like it's a "good spot." If you have not done it, look under the rear to see where the slots are. Not easy, have to have your head on the ground and may need a flashlight. How many techs, especially at a tire shop are going to do that?

I discussed the use of jack pads with the super Corvette Tech who works on my C8 after I showed him a pic of this one that fell (WHICH HE HAD NOT SEEN.) Their post lift also has round jack pads at the end of their post lift arms and I suggested you still need jack pads in the oval slot that are on the frame in the right location. He agreed. In addition if the post arm bends and they are not used it could be lifting outside the frame.

 

I too am quite cautious, but once you lower the QJ onto the safety bars, it isn't going anywhere. Do what you like, but it is SO solid and secure and you're trying to compress square steel tubing that can support well over 5 times the weight of the car, it just isn't needed. I have had my wife or my son (215 lbs.) hop in the car while on the QJ to put on the brakes while I torque lugs and it just doesn't move at all. Once you have one, you'll see just how stable and secure they are.

 

Thanks, this does reassure me. I have had the QJ for a short time and did feel it was very solid.