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Btw, I believe that I mentioned it above, but covering many thread subjects my Local Dealership Level A technician contacted GM via his computer in his bay. Loosely similar to "Chat" that many companies have on their website. In this case, it doesn't go overseas for tech support and he is able to have real time assistance to a problem. As great as my technician is, he isn't arrogant to assume that he has the correct answer 100% of the time. He's a true professional and the major reason I purchased locally.
Didn't some of you read the previous posts? And yes the wheel(s) were taken off. The LF had to be taken off for the porosity changeout. I watch my technician torque after reinstallation. After multiple observations, I do not need to watch him - Not that I was. He takes care of my C8 as if it were his own.
Summary - After discussions with my technician, we both agreed to do NOTHING - Based on first trying to reburn in the pads/rotors.
On the way home, I did a few harder braking stops and it was 50% better by the time I was home. I drove today with a few more harder than normal brakings and it is 90% better. So dry your brakes 100% by driving after cleaning, not just using a leaf blower and you should not have this situation appear for you..
Have you had the wheels off of the car? I have seen rotors deformed from uneven torqueing or over torqueing that causes pulsations when stopping.
Had that issue with my Street Rod when I first assembled. It has a TCI tubbed chassis for a '34 Ford. Front brakes are early Camaro, rears Caddy for the years where the caliper mechanism was also the parking brake. Not much of a parking brake so only was used only 2 years.
Had pulsing on the front as the rotors are not very beefy. Torqued with a three steps and pulsing was gone. Yep need to torque as you do head bolts in the correct crossing pattern and in several steps. Vette rotors are beefy but with 140 ft-lbs especially with air powered wrenches can still be an issue. Best to only use a hand torque wrench starting with like 80 ft-lbs and two steps to 140.
95% of the time, this is pad build-up on the rotors.... warping of rotors on a Corvette is rare....
The Brembos on my Z51 are outstanding on the street, and very capable for track, but are not up to repeated, hard track use.... I had pad build-up, and just replaced the rotors, as they are cheap... when I track the car I change the pads to Carbotech race pads, and they keep the rotors shiny new.... its a couple hours to change the wheels and pads, and well worth the time.
On my C8 Z51 it was four severely warped rotors at 3700 miles, with one track weekend at Barber and a mild trip to the Dragon. Hendrick replaced the rotors, but put the old super-worn pads back on and, after another weekend at Barber, more pulsing. I'm pulling the wheels off this week to check out the pads and rotors.