Yes, I have dealt with vehicles in which the former owners followed this practice...

 

I can attest to this - is not fun …

 

I owned a Brake repair shop for 30 years and have seen cars that were old and never replaced the brake fluid and did not have problems, But most had moisture in the fluid and the moisture in the calipers would cause alot of problems. Changing every 5 years is a good place to start. Fluids in a car is different for each car depending on driving conditions and the driver and the area you drive in. Use the manual recomendations even if they seem like its too low a mileage for you.

 

For Users with MDI2 and GDS2, if you don't want to disconnect the battery (like my case).

Deactivate Brake Boost System

1. Connect MDI2/GDS2:
   • Plug the MDI2 device into the vehicle’s OBD-II port.
   • Launch GDS2 software and verify the connection to the vehicle.
2. Access Deactivate Brake Boost Function:
   • Navigate to:
     K160 Brake System Control Module > Control Functions > Deactivate Brake Boost System.
3. Deactivate Brake Boost:
   • Follow the on-screen prompts to deactivate the Brake Boost System.
   • Confirm the system is fully deactivated before proceeding with bleeding.
4. Run Hydraulic System Tests
5. Verify Results:
   • Ensure the test passes and no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) remain.
   • If the test fails:
     • Repeat the bleeding process.
     • Inspect for leaks and resolve issues as needed.

 

Hello OP,
Did you finish the brake fluid exchange DIY? If so, how did it go? I just want to learn from your experience. Thank you very much,
MIchael

 

@ems657 It was a bit messy, and I had to do it twice. I highly recommend getting the correct cap for the master cylinder—I can't stress this enough. The first time, I experienced significant leakage and spillage, which led to failing the test due to excessive air in the system. On my second attempt, after ordering four different caps, I finally got the right one, and everything worked as expected. I also used the automated procedure from the device. If you don’t have a pressure bleeder, do not attempt this—you’ll end up with warning lights and a lot of air in your system.

i have also attached the procedure - it helped me

Note: also leave battery disconnected (negative) for 10 mins minimum

 

Hello OP,
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and the information. I also have a Motiv brake bleeder and agree with everything you just said. In fact, a few years ago, I bled the brake fluid on a Honda and air went into the system. As a result, I had almost no brakes (scary). Honestly, I am debating doing this on my own vs. taking it to a local dealer.
Thanks again and take care,
Michael

 

be careful when using pressure bleeders
the reservoir threads are easily damaged. there was a thread somewhere talking about using a metal cap made for the tesla.
I bleed my brakes the old fashioned way. takes two people but is very reliable and least messy. using the brake pedal to bleed your brakes gets the abs too. as for Castrol SRF make sure you get the dot4 version. The dot5 (silicone) fluid is not what you want
Silicone brake fluid has very specific applications and is usually reserved for pure racing applications

 

Does the standard 2 person method really get the ABS? I was thinking about doing the gravity method.

 

gravity is slow. two person method allows you to see if the first pump has discolored fluid or one or two small air bubbles. Just my two cents from circle track racing for 20 years and weekly brake bleeding

 

I understand. I can do either one, I was just looking for the most thorough and least risky approach short of using a pressure bleeder and scan tool. Coordinating the pedal pushing with my wife does have some risk...

 

use your wife. she will pick it up quick
my wife is my second person and she is great at it

 

This was my first attempt, and it introduced a lot of air. It also failed the system test. I recommend using pressure and mdi device (automated procedure), as this will save you time and some headaches. As you can see from my other post im dealing with engine lights now.

 

Great guide to brake fluid flush, however my 2024 C8 Z51 brake master cylinder reservoir cannot be drained with a syringe or turkey baster. It has internal baffles that prevent this.

My maintenance is due to changing my brake, transmission, coolant, and lift fluids. Am I missing anything else? I am starting with my break fluid first

I am planning to use 2 liters of Motul RBF 600.

Here is a PDF file for anyone who would like to print it: https://jmp.sh/lXnS55kh

Required Tools and Materials

• Brake Fluid:
  • ACDelco DOT 4 Brake Fluid
    • U.S. Part Number: 19299570
    • Canadian Part Number: 19299571
• Motive Products Pressure Bleeder:
  • Ensure compatibility with GM brake fluid reservoirs.
  • Recommended adapter: Motive European Adapter #1100 or verify fitment for the C8 master cylinder cap.
• Wrenches: Suitable for bleeder valves.
• Clear Tubing and Catch Bottle: For fluid collection.
• Safety Gear: Gloves and safety glasses.
• Torque Wrench:
  • 1/4-inch drive: For bleeder valves.
  • 1/2-inch drive: For wheel lug nuts.
• Other Supplies: Clean rags, and denatured alcohol for spill cleanup.

Procedure Steps

1. Preparation

1. Disconnect the Battery :
   • Remove the negative terminal to prevent the brake master cylinder from pressurizing during automated diagnostics.
   • Open the Driver's Door and Roll Down Windows: This ensures access to the cabin, as doors may lock when the battery is disconnected.
   • Wait 10 mins to start work
2. Raise and Support the Vehicle:
   • Use a hydraulic jack and stand on a level surface.
3. Remove Wheels:
   • Take off all four wheels to access the brake calipers.
4. Check Tools and Materials:
   • Ensure the pressure bleeder is properly filled with fresh brake fluid and all tools are within reach.

2. Brake System Bleeding Sequence

1. Follow GM’s specified sequence:
   • Right Rear (bleed this one the most).
   • Left Rear.
   • Right Front.
   • Left Front.

3. Bleeding Procedure

1. Remove old fluid from the brake reservoir using a baster or syringe, but do not empty it completely to avoid introducing air. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid.
2. Attach the Pressure Bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir.
3. Pressurize the system to 15–20 psi for steady fluid flow.
4. For each caliper:
   • Attach clear tubing to the bleeder valve, leading to a catch bottle.
   • Open the bleeder valve slowly.
   • Let fluid flow until it’s clear and free of bubbles.
   • Close the bleeder valve and torque to 17 N·m (13 lb·ft).
   • Repeat for both valves on the front calipers, starting with the outer bleeder, then the inner.
5. When adding additional fluid to the reservoir, first depressurize the pressure bleeder to avoid fluid spray.
6. Add no more than 1 liter at a time to the pressure bleeder for better volume tracking.

4. Finalizing the Flush

1. Monitor the fluid level in the reservoir to prevent air from entering the system.
2. Once all calipers are bled, top off the reservoir to the maximum level.
3. Gently pump the brake pedal a few times to ensure a stiff pedal and help avoid triggering a CEL.
4. Reinstall wheels and torque the lug nuts to 140 lb·ft.
5. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground.
6. Reconnect the battery.
7. Press the brake pedal multiple times to ensure it’s firm before driving.

Important Notes

1. Burnish the Brakes:
   • Perform 20 moderate-to-firm stops from 30 mph to properly seat pads and rotors if they were replaced.
   • Exception: If using Carbotech 1521 (Red Pads) or similar, burnishing is not required.
2. Electronic Stability Control (ESC):
   • If ESC faults trigger during the process, reset them using MDI2 or an equivalent diagnostic tool.
3. Brake Failure/Service ESC Reset Procedure:
   • Ensure the FOB is in the car.
   • Foot off the brake pedal, press and hold Start for 20 seconds until all displays turn on, then release.
   • Stand on the brake pedal hard and hold it to the floor. A clicking sound will occur for 15–30 seconds. When it stops, release the pedal and turn the car off.
   • Start the car normally. The CEL should be cleared.
4. Precautions:
   • Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Clean any spills immediately with denatured alcohol.
   • Ensure all components are tightened to GM torque specifications.
5. Fluid Recommendation:
   • If you are not flushing fluid often, consider Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid for its higher wet boiling point, making it more suitable for longer intervals.

Additional Feedback and Insights

1. ABS Module Bleeding:
   • To thoroughly flush the ABS system, perform several hard stops in a safe area to activate ABS. This helps circulate new fluid into the module.
   • Consider using a diagnostic tool like GDS2 or MDI2 to activate ABS valves if needed.
2. Fluid Quantity:
   • 2 liters is sufficient for a complete flush with some left for top-offs.
   • If unsure, always have extra on hand to avoid running out mid-process.

3. Fluid Recommendation:
If you are not flushing fluid often, consider Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid for its higher wet boiling point, making it more suitable for longer intervals.



Recommended Brake Fluids and Change Intervals

1. Motul RBF 600

• Use Case: Ideal for spirited daily driving and light track use.
• Change Interval: Every 1–2 years, depending on driving intensity.
• Performance: High dry boiling point (594°F) and wet boiling point (401°F), ensuring strong performance under stress.

2. Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid

• Use Case: Best for longer intervals and high-performance needs.
• Change Interval: Every 2–3 years, as it has an exceptional wet boiling point (518°F).
• Performance: Superior moisture resistance, making it suitable for mixed-use with less frequent maintenance.

3. ACDelco DOT 4 Brake Fluid - #19299570

• Use Case: Standard option for regular street driving and OEM compliance.
• Change Interval: Every 3–5 years, as per GM recommendations.
• Performance: Reliable for daily use with a focus on longevity and corrosion protection.

[/QUOTE]

 

As one who thus far has done all my own maintenance, I really appreciate the detailed write up Michelve !!!! My car will be due for this late summer.

However, I haven't done brake service since the late 80's and early 90's when I built 3 different Street Rods...... NONE of them had ABS, etc so it was pretty straightforward 2 person job.

I don't own the Motive Products pressure power bleeder, or any other brand for that matter, nor do I own the diagnostic tool like GDS2 or MDI2 etc.

With all that basis covered........ before I get into buying more tools, has anyone paid a dealer for brake fluid swap yet on their C8's? Curious what dealers are charging for such service. I know from personal experience, that DCT fluid and filter with flush prices were ALL OVER the place, and stupidly ridiculous, which prompted me to do my own DCT service and since then have helped my 2 buddy's do their DCT service too.

Just curious, in case the dealer's charge for brake fluid swap and service isn't crazy, perhaps I'll break down and pay them to do it. Otherwise, I'lll be buying the Motive Products Power Bleeder and brake fluid and doing it myself.

thanks,
Richard

 

Thx -- I think most dealers will charge around $120-$160, depending on where you live. Next time, that would be my default route.I chose to do it myself since I had the tools—just needed the right fill cap adapter. I had to try several before finding the correct one. Without it, things can get messy. But if you consider the upfront costs, going to the dealer might actually make more sense.

 

^^^^ I know that the HOURLY rate for a well known dealer near me ( Criswell Chevrolet in Thurmont, MD ) was $180 per hour, but going to $200. I'm sure it's already at $200 by now...... But I don't know how many hours they say the "book" says this service is.

 

Just one question... do you do this with every vehicle you own?!?

 

Avanti, our C8 is the ONLY vehicle I've EVER owned past 3 years. After now owning 12 Vettes over the years, this is realistically my last. I've got it fixed up to my liking and it's still like new at almost 5 years old. I can't see selling it and buying another just like it, or upgrading to an E ray or Z06 for an additional $60k or more.

I also had Company provided cars for 38 of my 41 years working professionally. Been retired now 10 years next month..... those vehicles were replaced every 2 to 3 years.

Our daily driver is an Ioniq 5 Limited AWD. Only maintenance on that is to rotate tires, which Hyundai does for 3 years. After that, I'll do it myself, or trade it in for whatever catches our fancy .....

 

Nice Rich!