My maintenance is due to changing my brake, transmission, coolant, and lift fluids. Am I missing anything else? I am starting with my break fluid first

I am planning to use 2 liters of Motul RBF 600.

Here is a PDF file for anyone who would like to print it: https://jmp.sh/lXnS55kh

Required Tools and Materials

• Brake Fluid:
  • ACDelco DOT 4 Brake Fluid
    • U.S. Part Number: 19299570
    • Canadian Part Number: 19299571
• Motive Products Pressure Bleeder:
  • Ensure compatibility with GM brake fluid reservoirs.
  • Recommended adapter: Motive European Adapter #1100 or verify fitment for the C8 master cylinder cap.
• Wrenches: Suitable for bleeder valves.
• Clear Tubing and Catch Bottle: For fluid collection.
• Safety Gear: Gloves and safety glasses.
• Torque Wrench:
  • 1/4-inch drive: For bleeder valves.
  • 1/2-inch drive: For wheel lug nuts.
• Other Supplies: Clean rags, and denatured alcohol for spill cleanup.

Procedure Steps

1. Preparation

1. Disconnect the Battery :
   • Remove the negative terminal to prevent the brake master cylinder from pressurizing during automated diagnostics.
   • Open the Driver's Door and Roll Down Windows: This ensures access to the cabin, as doors may lock when the battery is disconnected.
   • Wait 10 mins to start work
2. Raise and Support the Vehicle:
   • Use a hydraulic jack and stand on a level surface.
3. Remove Wheels:
   • Take off all four wheels to access the brake calipers.
4. Check Tools and Materials:
   • Ensure the pressure bleeder is properly filled with fresh brake fluid and all tools are within reach.

2. Brake System Bleeding Sequence

1. Follow GM’s specified sequence:
   • Right Rear (bleed this one the most).
   • Left Rear.
   • Right Front.
   • Left Front.

3. Bleeding Procedure

1. Remove old fluid from the brake reservoir using a baster or syringe, but do not empty it completely to avoid introducing air. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid.
2. Attach the Pressure Bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir.
3. Pressurize the system to 15–20 psi for steady fluid flow.
4. For each caliper:
   • Attach clear tubing to the bleeder valve, leading to a catch bottle.
   • Open the bleeder valve slowly.
   • Let fluid flow until it’s clear and free of bubbles.
   • Close the bleeder valve and torque to 17 N·m (13 lb·ft).
   • Repeat for both valves on the front calipers, starting with the outer bleeder, then the inner.
5. When adding additional fluid to the reservoir, first depressurize the pressure bleeder to avoid fluid spray.
6. Add no more than 1 liter at a time to the pressure bleeder for better volume tracking.

4. Finalizing the Flush

1. Monitor the fluid level in the reservoir to prevent air from entering the system.
2. Once all calipers are bled, top off the reservoir to the maximum level.
3. Gently pump the brake pedal a few times to ensure a stiff pedal and help avoid triggering a CEL.
4. Reinstall wheels and torque the lug nuts to 140 lb·ft.
5. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground.
6. Reconnect the battery.
7. Press the brake pedal multiple times to ensure it’s firm before driving.

Important Notes

1. Burnish the Brakes:
   • Perform 20 moderate-to-firm stops from 30 mph to properly seat pads and rotors if they were replaced.
   • Exception: If using Carbotech 1521 (Red Pads) or similar, burnishing is not required.
2. Electronic Stability Control (ESC):
   • If ESC faults trigger during the process, reset them using MDI2 or an equivalent diagnostic tool.
3. Brake Failure/Service ESC Reset Procedure:
   • Ensure the FOB is in the car.
   • Foot off the brake pedal, press and hold Start for 20 seconds until all displays turn on, then release.
   • Stand on the brake pedal hard and hold it to the floor. A clicking sound will occur for 15–30 seconds. When it stops, release the pedal and turn the car off.
   • Start the car normally. The CEL should be cleared.
4. Precautions:
   • Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Clean any spills immediately with denatured alcohol.
   • Ensure all components are tightened to GM torque specifications.
5. Fluid Recommendation:
   • If you are not flushing fluid often, consider Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid for its higher wet boiling point, making it more suitable for longer intervals.

Additional Feedback and Insights

1. ABS Module Bleeding:
   • To thoroughly flush the ABS system, perform several hard stops in a safe area to activate ABS. This helps circulate new fluid into the module.
   • Consider using a diagnostic tool like GDS2 or MDI2 to activate ABS valves if needed.
2. Fluid Quantity:
   • 2 liters is sufficient for a complete flush with some left for top-offs.
   • If unsure, always have extra on hand to avoid running out mid-process.

3. Fluid Recommendation:
If you are not flushing fluid often, consider Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid for its higher wet boiling point, making it more suitable for longer intervals.



Recommended Brake Fluids and Change Intervals

1. Motul RBF 600

• Use Case: Ideal for spirited daily driving and light track use.
• Change Interval: Every 1–2 years, depending on driving intensity.
• Performance: High dry boiling point (594°F) and wet boiling point (401°F), ensuring strong performance under stress.

2. Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid

• Use Case: Best for longer intervals and high-performance needs.
• Change Interval: Every 2–3 years, as it has an exceptional wet boiling point (518°F).
• Performance: Superior moisture resistance, making it suitable for mixed-use with less frequent maintenance.

3. ACDelco DOT 4 Brake Fluid - #19299570

• Use Case: Standard option for regular street driving and OEM compliance.
• Change Interval: Every 3–5 years, as per GM recommendations.
• Performance: Reliable for daily use with a focus on longevity and corrosion protection.

 

That's the most comprehensive list I've ever seen. I'm gonna say no, you are not missing anything.

 

Good directions on the brake fluid flush. Thanks for posting this.

 

Hello OP,

I have a Motiv brake bleeder and plan to do the same thing in the future. Please kindly keep us posted about your experience & any hiccups (hopefully not). Thanks and good luck,

Michael

 

one thing to add... small point. And nothing to do with the brakes..... After reconnecting the battery at some point cycle windows full open - close a few times. I have found that after disconnecting the battery the windows do not fully close.

 

The only thing i would change, especially if you are not going to be flushing your brake fluid often is to look at Castrol SRF brake fluid as it has a higher wet boiling point.

 

You did not specify if you track your car or not. Motul RBF 600 is a racing brake fluid with a higher boiling point than regular DOT4. With that, it requires changing annually due to moisture absorption. Regular DOT4 fluid (non racing) is required to be changed every 5 years per my owners manual. If you already knew this, sorry.
Your procedure looks good, just completed bleeding my brakes last week. I thought I read somewhere to pump your brakes before reconnecting battery. I couldn't do that due to having both doors shut when I disconnected my battery and they automatically locked. Made note to leave door open next time. Good luck!

 

Great tutorial, Thanks for your time posting!
I enjoy a thorough How-To and used same fluid and a pressure bleeder. OP asked, so this is just my 2 cents Below is my opinion only, right or not yours.

Section 1, Step 1: Open (at least) Driver's Door and roll down window(s), so you can still have access to cabin. Otherwise, doors lock when battery is disconnected.

Section 3, add: 1. Remove old fluid from brake reservoir using a baster/syringe, but not enough to allow air in the system, and fill reservoir with new fluid. (allows just a small amount of old fluid in the bottom of brake reservoir to be flushed through instead of completely full of old fluid)

Also, When adding additional fluid MUST depressurize the Bleeder FIRST. (If not, brake fluid may/will spray everywhere when the bleeder fill, or reservoir adapter cap, are loosened.)
I would note to only add 1 Liter of fluid at a time to pressure bleeder just for volume tracking.

Section 4, between 4 & 5 would add "When done gently pump brake pedal a few times, to a stiff pedal" a lot post this to help avoid a possible CEL.

Important Notes; 1. If "Brake Failure" / "Service ESC" Reset Procedure: Foot OFF the brake pedal, FOB in car, Press and HOLD Start for 20 seconds until all displays are on, then release. Stand on brake pedal hard and hold down to the floor. A clicking will be heard for 15-30 seconds, when it stops, release brake pedal and turn car off. Start car normally. CEL should've been cleared an no longer displayed.

Important Notes:, 2. If using a brake pad like the popular Carbotech 1521 (Red Pads) no burnishing is needed.

 

Thank you all

 

Great writeup - thank you! What diameter clear tubing should be used?

 

Excellent write up.

How does this get saved as a “sticky” for easy finding in the future?

 

 

Here is a PDF file for anyone who would like to print it: https://jmp.sh/lXnS55kh

 

Others can help, but

• 3/16 inch is ideal for a snug fit on most M10 bleeder screws, ensuring no leaks or air ingress etc
• 1/4 inch is also commonly used and provides a slightly looser fit but works well for standard bleeding setups

 

If your car is still under factory warranty only use GM or GM approved products. I’m just saying….

 

Does the old ranger method work for the C8?

 

"Ranger Method" to the C8's brake system is not recommended (it can lead to unintended pressurization of the system, especially if the vehicle's electronics are active).
Instead, traditional brake bleeding methods, such as pressure bleeding or the two-person manual method, are more appropriate.

 

I will, I am just waiting on my bleeder cap, I lost mine, so I had to order another one

 

The ranger method I'm awrare of is removing the old fluid from the reservoir with a syringe, refilling the reservoir with fresh fluid, pumping the brakes to mix the new fluid with the old fluid, and repeating the procedure for enough cycles until the majority of the old fluid has been replaced. The problem with this method for a car with ABS is a lot of old fluid will remain trapped in the ABS module unless you have a scan tool to actuate the ABS. One workaround would be to drive the car during the cycle and engage the brakes hard enough to actuate the ABS. While this will work it would take several cycles and a lot of time.

People in the tech section have reported that the gravity method for bleeding brakes works. Basically, remove the old fluid from the reservoir with a syringe and refill with fresh fluid, crack open the bleeder furthest from the master cylinder and let the fluid drain under gravity until the old fluid has been removed from that circuit (don't let the reservoir go dry). Repeat for the next furthest wheel cylinder until all four circuits have been bled. But this method also has the problem of leaving old fluid in the ABS module. If I don't have a scan tool capable of performing the GM brake bleeding procedure by the time my brake fluid needs to be replaced I may combine this method with a drive to actuate the ABS and repeating the process but it would be a lot of work. Not perfect but it would get a majority of the fluid replaced.

 

I have only owned cars for 68 years and have never changed brake fluid in any of them. I love learning every day but I will never change any brake fluid.