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Finally getting some real lifting power in the garage. Question for those of you that have the Jacks?
Did you get the 5000 TL at 60" lift area or the 5000 TLX that are 6" longer lift and overall?
Don't have a C8 here to measure, what did you all get?
Thanks in advance! dr.k
^^^^ Phil, while I totally understand your point of lifting using the rear points and letting the front be 6" short of intended location...... my point to anyone who HAS NOT already purchased a QuickJack and wants to do so, is WHY NOT get the one that IS the proper length???
I get it, if you already own one, OR if the other car in your stable has a very short wheelbase and that one requires the shorter 60" length...... and that there are no reported damages using the short one....BUT for anyone buying one to use on their C8 and no other immediate need, I just can't fathom why they wouldn't want one that hits the intended lift points. Certainly, they could save a few $$$ by getting the shorter one, but for heaven's sake.... you spend $75k or higher for the car, what's another $150 or so to do it right.
I have the shorter one and it's 100% safe and works, but it is not long enough to reach the front lift points by a few inches. If you have the choice, buy the longer one.
Yeah, I mistakenly or not bought the shorter one. I figured it was long enough. The reason is it looks like I need the shorter one for my Maserati. Well, I bought the extension platforms you can put on top, they are long enough but then it's to high to slide under the C8 so I made a short ramp I can drive up on with 2x12's and all is well now.
As long as you ALWAYS use the rear lift point with the shorter one it's fine. Been lifting C8s for years with mine. Had front wheels off, sat in the car, etc. and it has always been 100% stable and secure. The key is using the rear points because of the rear weight bias.
^^^^ Phil, while I totally understand your point of lifting using the rear points and letting the front be 6" short of intended location...... my point to anyone who HAS NOT already purchased a QuickJack and wants to do so, is WHY NOT get the one that IS the proper length???
I get it, if you already own one, OR if the other car in your stable has a very short wheelbase and that one requires the shorter 60" length...... and that there are no reported damages using the short one....BUT for anyone buying one to use on their C8 and no other immediate need, I just can't fathom why they wouldn't want one that hits the intended lift points. Certainly, they could save a few $$$ by getting the shorter one, but for heaven's sake.... you spend $75k or higher for the car, what's another $150 or so to do it right.
I had a 5000 TL for my C6Z. While it could be used on the C8Z, I had it modified with some 14" x 5" channel iron and got an extra 7" so can reach both the front and rear lifting points. That worked for me, but you want to but the 5000 TXL.
^^^^ Phil, while I totally understand your point of lifting using the rear points and letting the front be 6" short of intended location...... my point to anyone who HAS NOT already purchased a QuickJack and wants to do so, is WHY NOT get the one that IS the proper length???
I get it, if you already own one, OR if the other car in your stable has a very short wheelbase and that one requires the shorter 60" length...... and that there are no reported damages using the short one....BUT for anyone buying one to use on their C8 and no other immediate need, I just can't fathom why they wouldn't want one that hits the intended lift points. Certainly, they could save a few $$$ by getting the shorter one, but for heaven's sake.... you spend $75k or higher for the car, what's another $150 or so to do it right.
I know Strake, read all of my #3 post. I said if you have the choice to buy the long version. I was more referring to the post before the one you are referencing because it sounded like you can't lift a C8 unless it's longer and that's just not the case.
^^^^ Phil, while I totally understand your point of lifting using the rear points and letting the front be 6" short of intended location...... my point to anyone who HAS NOT already purchased a QuickJack and wants to do so, is WHY NOT get the one that IS the proper length???
I get it, if you already own one, OR if the other car in your stable has a very short wheelbase and that one requires the shorter 60" length...... and that there are no reported damages using the short one....BUT for anyone buying one to use on their C8 and no other immediate need, I just can't fathom why they wouldn't want one that hits the intended lift points. Certainly, they could save a few $$$ by getting the shorter one, but for heaven's sake.... you spend $75k or higher for the car, what's another $150 or so to do it right.
There's no way I would buy any Quickjack shorter than the TLX versions at this point. In fact, the TLX is too short for the lift points on some European cars these days. Cars keep getting larger and larger so I expect the lift points to be more spread out going forward.
I have the TL's --used them several times, no problems at all. Installed low-profile jacking pucks a long time ago -- the jacks work well with them. Orient the rear of the quickjack directly on the rear lifting point and the front lined up a bit short of the front point. So you can save a few bucks (and pounds) by purchasing the TL's.
As another poster here already said, if you already have a 5000 TL then you might as well make it work on the C8 but if you're shopping for a new one why not buy the one that actually fits the four lift points on your car- the 5000 TLX?
Like I said, it is CRITICAL that you always use the rear factory jack points, the car has such a rear weight bias, you HAVE to use that. The front doesn't really matter that much. The front only comes up a few inches behind the front points. I did this thread about it years ago.
^^^^ Phil, while I totally understand your point of lifting using the rear points and letting the front be 6" short of intended location...... my point to anyone who HAS NOT already purchased a QuickJack and wants to do so, is WHY NOT get the one that IS the proper length???
I get it, if you already own one, OR if the other car in your stable has a very short wheelbase and that one requires the shorter 60" length...... and that there are no reported damages using the short one....BUT for anyone buying one to use on their C8 and no other immediate need, I just can't fathom why they wouldn't want one that hits the intended lift points. Certainly, they could save a few $$$ by getting the shorter one, but for heaven's sake.... you spend $75k or higher for the car, what's another $150 or so to do it right.
WELL SAID! One should employ this philosophy for ALL purchases. Doing otherwise can result in false economy and disappointment. This advice is based upon 85 years of experience l
Current 2020 Z51 owner with a 2025 Hysteria Purple/yellow spears and calibers ERAY on order,
Ed K.
I have the shorter one and it's 100% safe and works, but it is not long enough to reach the front lift points by a few inches. If you have the choice, buy the longer one.
I think I finally understand this response, you're saying it can reach the first locking position but not long enough to reach the second furthest locking position? I'm confused... how is that possible it just doesn't have enough juice to get there? It should be able to fully extend all the way to the second locking position?
My QJ model is BL-5000SLX, should I upgrade? I have two track cars the Miata which works great using the SLX series. I have yet to experiment with the C8.
I think I finally understand this response, you're saying it can reach the first locking position but not long enough to reach the second furthest locking position? I'm confused... how is that possible it just doesn't have enough juice to get there? It should be able to fully extend all the way to the second locking position?
No, what I am referring to is the length of the QJ lifting platform. You put the rubber blocks into the trays as far away from each other as is possible. You position the jack so the rubber lifting block hits a jack pad in the rear lift point of the car (oval slot just in front of the shear plate) and then the front rubber block will hit just behind the oval front slot (but that's OK). The QJ will lift a building, I always raise the car to the second safety position for maximum height and working room under the car.
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