2022 C8. When I went to start the car yesterday, I received a message that the rear trunk was open. This happened twice. I was sure it had closed properly. The "soft close" didn't seem to engage, but I didn't think too much of it at the time. I parked the car in a garage overnight as I usually do.

This morning things got strange.

It started with the rear trunk open message when I tried to start the car. I got out, pushed it down. The starter button did nothing. Strange messages - Alarm system not working, among others I can't recall. I tried to start again - headlights blinked a few times and no start. Various dashboard warning lights came on. Then everything went dead. The door wouldn't open. I had to use the manual override to get out. Now, nothing works. I had to use the key to manually open the door and then manually open the frunk. The Corvette battery tender is attached and showing zero charge.

Assuming it is a battery issue, I'm hoping to get enough charge to get the car running and out of the garage. Where it is makes it almost impossible to use a jumper cable. There's absolutely no way to tow it from the current position/location.

Does this sound like a battery issue? If so, what could cause a battery to completely die overnight? Anything special involved with changing the battery? Can I bring it anywhere or is this something a dealer needs to handle?

FWIW, I do have the Chevy extended warranty, but I’m not sure if it would apply here.

 

It could be that the battery just died or that something went awry with the car that drained the battery. You'll need a battery charger or at least high output battery maintainer. I'd want something that could put out at least 10 amps otherwise you're going to be waiting a long time. You could also try disconnecting and reconnecting your battery but it is a long shot.

You might want to remove your battery and take it to a place to have it charge and tested. If it tests bad then you'll know you need to replace it. The Chevy extended warranty won't cover a battery.

 

Thanks for the info. Removing the battery and having it tested sounds like a good idea.

If I have to replace it, I can get that anywhere and replace myself, right? Or is there something special about the battery?

 

Just to add...

Trickle charger ("Corvette" model) throws an error light after 15-20 minutes. I reset and tried twice with same result.

Multimeter on battery shows 4.5 volts.

Going to pull the battery and take it to a local shop. If I'm lucky, I can find a replacement.

 

There isn't anything special about the battery other than getting the correct fit. It will be easier to lift it out if you have a battery strap that grabs the top terminals. The OEM battery is a standard flooded lead acid battery but you could put in an AGM battery. Walmart has good prices on an AGM battery (H6 I believe) and if it fails within warranty you have the multiple locations to get it replaced. Be careful about not damaging the battery sensor on the terminal when you remove and install the battery.

 

Thank you.

Now I just have to figure out how to the the battery out. I have the top strap removed and the terminals disconnected. Apparently there is one more anchor point before this thing comes free. Can't find a video that gets to that point. Nothing is easy anymore.

 

Final follow-up...

There's an extra bolt at the bottom of the battery tray that needs to be removed. Most online videos never mention that or show where it is. Tight space, but I got it removed. It's important to note the positioning of the two pieces. Also, be careful not to drop anything.

Pulled the battery and brought it to Autozone. They said it was low and asked if I wanted them to try and charge it. The battery is three years old. The trickle charger kept throwing an error. I saw no reason to test my luck. Replaced it with an AGM version.

Putting it back in was pretty easy. Space is very tight, but I made it work. Most of my vehicles over the past few decades have been leases. Those that weren't were traded in and upgraded after 3-4 years before things started to go wrong. It's been a VERY long time since I did any "work" on a car. It's been a while since I owned a car that you didn't need a computer to do any work. It felt good to have this VERY small throwback to my teenage years, when it was much easier to work on a car.

Car is up and running again. Windows needed to be re-indexed. A few dashboard panels went back to defaults. Looks like I have to figure out how to reset the tire pressure monitor system. Otherwise, all settings seem to be intact.

 

This one? Edit: Our posts crossed. I see from your previous post you found it.

 

This is off the thread topic, but since the issue is resolved, I'll go ahead......


The quote reminds me of Dad. Of course times were different back in the 50's and 60's. He would replace a car every 2 or 3 years. Just as soon as the first time some part needed to be replaced, i.e. shocks, brakes, starter motor, anything, he get it done then trade in the car. He thought that the car "would just nickel and dime" him after that. He WOULD take it in for regular servicing, every 30 days IIRC tho. ...

My how time DO change.

 

I believe it will correct itself (the TPMS). The service manual say it does not forget the location due to a power loss (though it that can also be solved just by driving). But it does say that it will not retain the previous pressure data. If the vehicle battery is disconnected each tire pressure sensor ID is retained but all of the tire pressure information is lost. The driver information center will display dashes. To resolve it, drive the car above 25 mph for at least 2 minutes (it says).

 

You can scroll within the DIC and initiate a TPMS relearn. Sometimes it's quick, sometimes it takes 3 or 4 miles for mine to "relearn".

 

Congrats on getting the problem fixed by replacement of the battery.

 

For what it is worth I replace my battery every 3-4 years

 

Update... problem is not fixed. New battery lasted 10 days. Car is dead again. (Of course, now that we have a few days of nice weather when I can finally put the top down).

Car rode fine the past few days. Had it out less than 24 hours ago. No warnings, no indication of a problem. Went to start up today. After a few weird dashboard messages (press start again), everything is black. Obviously a brand new battery should last more than 10 days, so something else is going on.

I called roadside. The dealer I am using is 2 miles outside the authorized range. (Although, at least one "no-charge" dealer tow is actually a longer ride). They have nickel and dimed me on the two miles. Guy says I get charged $94 if I cancel the tow. I replied, I will charge him $94 if they send a truck that can't figure out how to tow the car.

I made it clear that I can NOT put the car in neutral and it is in a garage. Really scary that I had to tell them I need a flatbed. They were ready to send a regular tow truck. Still waiting for confirmation from "AAA" on the truck, which GM said should take another hour or two to get here.

Not very confident this will go well. I can pretty much guarantee he won't have the tool or knowledge to put it in neutral. Best case scenario is he has long enough cables to jump the car so I can start it. At that point, I'd probably drive it to the dealership, leave it in the night drop, and Uber home. Even if I drive it on to the flatbed, he won't be able to start it when he gets there.

Any guesses as to what is going on with this car? It ate a brand new battery in 10 days.

 

I'd get the battery charged and tested. It is possible the new battery is bad but I'd suspect something with the car at this point.

 

Another update:

Tow arrived. He does not have the tool to put it into neutral. Fortunately, he had a portable jump-starter. We managed to get the car started, so I thought it would be easier to drive to the dealer and drop it off. Less hassle, and wouldn't have to worry about the driver trying to jump-start it again to go back to neutral.

Unfortunately, the car would not go into gear. The check engine light is on. The info panel says to service the lift system, service the transmission, and a few other warnings. Attempting to go into reverse and the "R" comes on, but is grayed out. The parking brake initiates by itself and the car eventually puts itself back into park. I'm guessing there was enough juice to start the car (after several attempts) but not enough to keep all the systems running properly.

Fortunately, neutral worked. We pushed the car into the street and he used straps to drag it onto the flatbed. Neither of us had tow hooks. The car would randomly go back to Park and activate the parking brake, so I sat in the car while it was loaded onto the bed. Even with the car running, I had to use the manual lever to open the door. Oddly, the door works from the outside, just not from the inside.

I'm about three weeks out of warranty. Fortunately, I purchased the extended GM plan a few months back. Guess I'm going to find out if it's any good.



Right now, I'm just sweating the tow. I'm not too confident about the truck's on/off process.

 

Agreed on both points. It's headed to the dealer now, so I'll let them figure it out. Even if the brand new battery was defective, I'd still want to make sure there are no other issues with the car. Both times, it was dead at home. I don't want to get stuck a few hundred miles away.

 

Thankfully you have the extended warranty... . Obviously there's a drain somewhere but you knew that. All I can offer is commiseration.

 

I have never trusted OEM batteries, even after replacing I always have this item on charge ready to use at home or to take with me in any vehicle I am driving:

NOCO Boost X GBX155: 4250A UltraSafe Jump Starter – 12V Lithium Battery Booster Pack, Portable Jump Box

 

HOLY CRAP.... I have the GBX-55 and I thought that was a bit of overkill. ..