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Do I need to change the brake fluid on my non Z51 C8 Stingray? In service date is 4/20/22 with 15,500 miles. Dealer says yes it’s time . What do you think?
Do I need to change the brake fluid on my non Z51 C8 Stingray? In service date is 4/20/22 with 15,500 miles. Dealer says yes it’s time . What do you think?
I think you should follow the schedule in your 2022 Owner's Manual:
Do I need to change the brake fluid on my non Z51 C8 Stingray? In service date is 4/20/22 with 15,500 miles. Dealer says yes it’s time . What do you think?
I think you should follow the schedule in your 2022 Owner's Manual:
I think it is because brake fluid absorbs moisture over time.
From Google AI:
"Yes, brake fluid goes bad because it is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. This contamination lowers its boiling point, reduces braking efficiency, and causes internal corrosion. It is generally recommended to flush and replace brake fluid every 2 to 3 years."
Can measure measure moisture in brake fluid with $10 to $12 meter. This Pic from Amazon.
I measured did my C7s Hydrulic Clutch that was brake fluid (just as the Lift Option uses.) I used the Ranger Method rather than blead the system. Reaching the drain at the clutch required removing a part, PIA. Other than Tracking where you should be changing to racing type fluid that is very hygroscopic and avid trackers will blead before each session OR follow what GM recommends changing back to normal brake fluid for street use AFTER each Tracking event.
For brakes as I did for my C7 clutches remove all fluid from the brake reservoir with a "turkey baster" OR as I have a hand vacuum pump. Then pour in new fluid. With the clutch you would pump the clutch ~20 times that circulates fluid in the systm. With brakes not so much BUT by simple osmosis the water molecules in the break lines and pistons will migrate over to the new fluid. Might pump a few times and wait a day or so and measure the moisture again, empty the reservoir and pump the brakes a few times and it a few days measure moisture again.
I think it is because brake fluid absorbs moisture over time.
From Google AI:
"Yes, brake fluid goes bad because it is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. This contamination lowers its boiling point, reduces braking efficiency, and causes internal corrosion. It is generally recommended to flush and replace brake fluid every 2 to 3 years."
I understand this, but brake systems are fully enclosed otherwise you would get spongy brake pedal feel every few weeks/months, so confused as to how it absorbs moisture, I would say that the brake fluid itself just brakes down its composition over time and 5 year is the time it needs to be replaced.
On my track bike it was a annual thing, sometimes more since that fluid boils over during track riding even using the high quality motul rf stuff forgot which ###
I understand this, but brake systems are fully enclosed otherwise you would get spongy brake pedal feel every few weeks/months, so confused as to how it absorbs moisture, I would say that the brake fluid itself just brakes down its composition over time and 5 year is the time it needs to be replaced.
On my track bike it was a annual thing, sometimes more since that fluid boils over during track riding even using the high quality motul rf stuff forgot which ###
Closed system, yes. Totally impervious to moist air, no. Microscopic pores in seals and even the hoses allow moist air to slowly enter over time.
Do I need to change the brake fluid on my non Z51 C8 Stingray? In service date is 4/20/22 with 15,500 miles. Dealer says yes it’s time . What do you think?
I have a ‘20 and just changed mine and radiator fluid. Believe the manual says 5 years
If you just street drive the car with no spirited driving, follow the owner's manual, if you track or hpde your car, then it needs to be done more often
Can measure measure moisture in brake fluid with $10 to $12 meter. This Pic from Amazon.
I measured did my C7s Hydrulic Clutch that was brake fluid (just as the Lift Option uses.) I used the Ranger Method rather than blead the system. Reaching the drain at the clutch required removing a part, PIA. Other than Tracking where you should be changing to racing type fluid that is very hygroscopic and avid trackers will blead before each session OR follow what GM recommends changing back to normal brake fluid for street use AFTER each Tracking event.
For brakes as I did for my C7 clutches remove all fluid from the brake reservoir with a "turkey baster" OR as I have a hand vacuum pump. Then pour in new fluid. With the clutch you would pump the clutch ~20 times that circulates fluid in the systm. With brakes not so much BUT by simple osmosis the water molecules in the break lines and pistons will migrate over to the new fluid. Might pump a few times and wait a day or so and measure the moisture again, empty the reservoir and pump the brakes a few times and it a few days measure moisture again.
This is what I found with my cludtch fluid:
Originally Posted by Zormecteon
Not only the brake fluid at 5 years but also the coolant and front lift fluid.
Between the 3 year interval of the tranny fluid and the 5 year on all the other fluids, that 15 year servicing is going to be a dandy.
For sure use the Ranger Method before replacing the Lift Fluid. There is a great deal of Lift fluid that moves from the large coilovers to the reservoir. The upper reservoir volume gets low when lifted. So:
Replce the upper resueroir with a turkey baster
Add new brake fluid
Lift a few times
Repeat until moisture is very low.
Proably only takes 3 or 4repats.
Member "bytor" used his movie camera inside the Frunk to view the fluid level in the Lift Reservoir when lifted. I made the calculations and ~9 cubic inches of fluid left the reservoir when lifted. Lots is mixing with old and new fluid.
Wow, so much talk about something so simple. Don't pay a dealer to "change" your brake fluid. Buy a turkey baster, suck it out of the reservior, refill, and be done. Drive it for a week and do it again. Good enough. You've just changed 98% of the fluid and you didn't even crack open a bleeder or risk getting air in the system. Buying a tester is way too **** and overkill. It's not like brake fluid is expensive or you have to use a lot. This is basic stuff people. 5 minutes of work max.
Wow, so much talk about something so simple. Don't pay a dealer to "change" your brake fluid. Buy a turkey baster, suck it out of the reservior, refill, and be done. Drive it for a week and do it again. Good enough. You've just changed 98% of the fluid and you didn't even crack open a bleeder or risk getting air in the system. Buying a tester is way too **** and overkill. It's not like brake fluid is expensive or you have to use a lot. This is basic stuff people. 5 minutes of work max.
Agree with method BUT a $10 moisture measurement tool is NOT **** and foolish not to have/use! It's NOT rocket science!
Best post in awhile. Having used the Ranger method on my C7 clutch I am happy to see the same can be done on brakes and C8 lift. I have a 2023 so may do it soon as course of action. I think for $10 may be worth getting the test probe too.
Wow, so much talk about something so simple. Don't pay a dealer to "change" your brake fluid. Buy a turkey baster, suck it out of the reservior, refill, and be done.
Will that actually circulate into the brake lines and calipers?
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Brake Fluid Change
