Hmm.... never heard that. Lifted many a C6 and C7 aluminum car via those spots with floor jacks.

 

Me too... although I put two floor jacks on one side and then pump them up together.

And then put safety jack stands as well just in case both jacks fail.

 

This ACS guy says one jack is OK..

 

^^
Hmmm, some of the words were fine BUT it starts off NOT doing what he said should be done!
He cautions on a number of things BUT IMO this is NOT the safest way to jack up the car!
Have a PDF link at the end BUT here are a few pics from it to show some problems:

First it's not good to use jack stands on both ends of the car. One pair of jack stands I own has that Warning Label! Since I was jacking cars since I was about 10 with my Pop, I think of what he made me do, '"Hit the car hard with my shoulder after it was ON BLOCKS UNDER THEN FRAME" - - is very good advice. He'd say: "Better it falls now before we get under!" He had a friend killed when a car fell on him!


The Second Thing He Mentioned but does wrong is the jack should be perpendicular to the car. IT MUST move in as he says BUT when on an angle it it much more difficult to keep the jack saddle under the lifting puck. He also jacked it pretty high and was not looking "after each pump" to be sure the jack saddle was not sliding off of the lifting puck. His long reach jack made it less of a problem but with the typical short arm jack it could easily move, slip and crack the rocker panel or worse! In addition his jack saddle had a rubber pad, most of my 4 jacks do NOT. My long arm long reach, jack weights 95 lbs and was not moving in so I welded a larger lip on the saddle. Note in this pic it shows the amount a jack MUST move in to match the max lift of my "short arm jack," THAT MUST MOVE IN 2.6 INCHES (which is the one commonly the cheapest sold at Harbor Freight.) If for whatever reason the jack does not roll in (as he said in the video, for example, there was a gap in the floor tile that could stop the wheels from rolling) sliding 2.6 inches will surely have the jack saddle slip off the jack puck! Leading to a disaster!


Frankly my jacking method is easer and safer! I use wood stanchions on one end that I fabricated, usually on the back wheels (If you don't have the simple wood working skills you can buy plastic stanchions from "Race Ramps" etc) . Then I lift the front and use jack stands ONLY on that end. I also use two jacks and lift each side a pump at a time keeping the car level. i keep the jacks lightly loaded in addition to the jack stands "Just-In-Case." If I were installing, for example an exhaust X pipe, I would be very careful and use my Dad's advise and hit the car hard with my shoulder and be sure it was very secure as there is force required for some installed items.

This is a link to a 17 page picture/text PDF that includes how to make wood stanchions for $10 (with calculations of the safety factor, which is far more than bridges you drive over ) http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf

BE SAFE

 

I'm going to move me rather than my C8

 

A Quickjack solves all of these issues. Best 900 bucks I ever spend on my garage equipment!

 

I've seen both aluminum and hard rubber jacking pucks. What do you guys that have used them recommend and where is the best place to purchase?

 

^^^
I have both. Bought 2 inch high aluminum jack pads before my September 2013 built 2014 C7 arrived. Then after GM sent a notice to have my differential fluid level checked was concerned so when I bought my Grand Sport, bought plastic one from Reverse Logic (forum vendor.) His is why:

As I had with my C6, told the dealer service writer my usual, "I have my 4 lift pads on the passenger seat in a clear plastic bag, be sure the Tech uses them!" She knew me from the C6 and said, "Oh I am going to be sure they use only the drive on alignment rack (they have one of those and ~18 center post lifts that "NEED" lift pads,) They just cracked a customer's Corvette rocker panel and it's in the body shop for repair!" BTW, replacing the large one piece rocker panel that is glued to the frame requires removing the door then blending the paint with the front and rear fender- SEE pic!

These Reverse Logic pads can be attached temporarily when visiting a dealer or tire shop where you cannot watch from an open service bay door (my usual MO) and be sure they are used. I mostly just use them as normal pads as I do all my own oil changes etc. You can also buy a kit to make them higher BUT not needed even with the full length carbon Fiber side skirts I have on my 2017 Grand Sport.

 

Hello, JerryU! I believe the locations you have circled in post #13 (above) coincide with the incorrect locations initially utilized in this video (see: ). Upon recognizing their error, they relocated the lift arms to the correct locations which are further fore and aft at either ends. Possibly you could edit your illustration marking the correct locations. Thanks!

 

Interesting. The Tech obviously knows what he is doing! I looked for a spot considering the rear weight bias. But that is what I found. More important the C8 Owner’s Manual shows those locations to install the Lifting Pads! Check out page 212 and 213! Note, in the video he is NOT using a lifting pad, rather a piece of wood on the frame.

As far as my own lifting, for an oil change will only need to jack the rear. Unlike the C7 where I lift both ends using wood stanchions under the rear tires and jack stands under the front, no need for the C8. There is only one drain plug in the C8 pan at the front of the engine. So, in my case only the rear will be lifted, using the jack pads and location specified in the Owner’s Manual. When I change brake pads (which looks like it will be necessary for my Z51 as it was for my Grand Sport so I’m not cleaning wheels ever ~200 miles) I’ll lift one end at a time, using the Owner’s Manual jack pad location!

Now dealer’s using a Lift with arms will have to be careful! Will be interesting to see what Chevy tells dealers! More important where will tire shops, who are used to using pads and are not Chevy Dealers, lift!

 

Actually the tech initially did not not what he was doing. If you view the video at 8:43 through 8:59 he recognizes his error in the rear of the C8, realizing that the jacking/lift points coincide with the oblong holes that have been present on Corvettes since the C5s and beyond. And then at 9:20 through 9:35 he recognizes the same oblong holes for the front jacking/lift points. If you look more closely at the drawings in the owner's book on pages 212 and 213 you will see that they too are specifying the use of the oblong holes. Also for everyone's reference I've attached the GM Jacking and Lifting document for the C8. Lastly, considering many "readers" will skim this thread and only absorb the pictorial information, IMO, I think it would be a great service to others if you'd edit the circles on your drawing. Thanks again!

 

^^^^
Thanks, frankly with Conti talking, I skimmed through the video and missed his error!

I had made two pics re lifting the C8. The latest had the Lift Pad Locations indicated properly. I had seen those holes closer to the center and felt that rear hole was NOT located far enough to the rear! Did also NOT see that the center holes were round! Tech should have picked up that the holes must be oval to retain the Lift Pads!

Make this pic below, which shows a key item not in my previously posted lifting pic, WHERE NOT TO PLACE THE PADS! Also included pics from the 2020 Owner's Manul, which was not available when I made that pic. It clearly shows and states the jack pads go in the oval holes!

Yep, even pros make mistakes! Thanks for that document although hopefully there is a GM sketch like the one I used from the C7 Service Manual where all lift points can be shown. May add to this pic, some from the Doc you provided!

 

Using the PDF you posted from GM indicating additional lifting points, made the following Pic:

Note I added a Note saying what I would do placing jack stands under "A" frames (close to the ball joints) "as a safety precaution" if jacking one end with 2 Jacks on Jack Pads in the side rails. In my case I would keep a load on the side jacks and put only a slight load on the stands. Everyone has to decide for themselves. BUT accessing the rear cross member jack points for jack stands, (which would be ideal) as seen in the GM supplied info, requires removal of the air deflector.

 

The c7 pad will fit the C8. the c5 and c6 steel frame pads will not fit the C8.

 

Have you used the Quickjack on your C8. Same procedure as the C7?

 

Wrong car!! This is the C8 forum. Sure it's a car & a Corvette video but the engine location & chassis are very different between each machine. Think that it matters?