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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 10:45 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by baron95
I haven't done it on a C8, but that is the procedure I have used on every vehicle I've had. If you do it exactly as you describe, and tighten the bleed screws without letting pressure drop, there is zero chance of introducing air in the system, and there is no way to mess it up. I would not go all the way down to min line (I'm just paranoid about it), just in case the electric booster kicks in or you inadvertently leave the bleed screw open too long.

I've been doing this forever. Every time I changed brake pads I repeat the above procedure to get old fluid out of the calipers. This way I always have fresh fluid in the system.

Your procedure is still the best way, IMHO. Good luck.


P.S. I assume you have a clear tube and bottle to catch the bled fluid. Good way to detect air, impurities, etc. You can also buy a fluid moisture tester and keep track of moisture content on your fluid. (hint: you will never see any significant moisture on a newer, well maintained car)
Excellent news, thanks for the feedback regarding my approach. I have one of the valved bleeder bottles like you described, so should be covered there. Sounds like my weekend plans are coming together, lol.
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 12:22 PM
  #42  
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I have done 2 cars now with the pedal method. No issue.

On the second one with the front calipers off I had to open the door /reconnect battery etc and of course the car complained.

Got it all bled and yes it took a few minutes to cycle and clear codes but it worked fine.

I use gravity (14.7 psi) and then the master cyl. to create pressure. I tried a Motive once on a different car but it felt over complicated and exposed the fluid to so much air. I like having the nearest person with a leg describe the firm pedal.

YMMV

-Ken

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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 02:35 AM
  #43  
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I'm confused here. Why do you guys need to reconnect the battery to open the door to press the pedal (for those using that method)?

Can't you just use the mechanical release on the floor or the mechanical key on the fob?
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 07:31 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by baron95
I'm confused here. Why do you guys need to reconnect the battery to open the door to press the pedal (for those using that method)?

Can't you just use the mechanical release on the floor or the mechanical key on the fob?
There is always that one guy who figures it out and tells you a better way after you’ve already made that mistake.
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 10:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RussM05
There is always that one guy who figures it out and tells you a better way after you’ve already made that mistake.
Didn't mean it as a knock - I was wondering if I had missed something and the battery needed to be reconnected for some reason.

Been there, done that (mistakes while working on my cars) countless times. I appreciate that you have gone through it, so we can learn from you.
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 08:02 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by CZS
Has anyone used their Motive bleeder to pressure bleed their C8 brakes yet? I'm about to order the Motive kit, but am a total novice to using it. My plan is to remove some fluid from the master cylinder, then top off with fresh fluid and use the Motive to pressure bleed each caliper until the fluid level is down to just above the 'minimum' line. Then fill and repeat until all four corners are bled. Anyone used this method successfully yet?
I did exactly that it worked fine,no issues. I didn't even disconnect the power but it was because I didn't know to and figure I got lucky. I'll disconnect the power next time.

I did buy another cap and quick disconnect for the motive that seal better, it's the same one I use on the C7. Also note that you need to add fluid very slowly to the reservoir to fill it in between bleed cycles.
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 11:32 AM
  #47  
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Is there a issue letting the motive bleeder fill up the reservoir? I normally bleed my ss 1le with motive bleeder by filling up the jar with Castro srf, never have any air bubble issue . Thanks for any advices
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Old Oct 23, 2020 | 12:20 PM
  #48  
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Default Good question - Any body have an answer from actual C8 DIY?

Originally Posted by kcaidds168@yahoo.com
Is there a issue letting the motive bleeder fill up the reservoir? I normally bleed my ss 1le with motive bleeder by filling up the jar with Castro srf, never have any air bubble issue . Thanks for any advices

On the weekend schedule, love to know what the experience is with just using pressure bleeder to keep reservoir filled on C8. THANKS!
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Old Sep 9, 2023 | 10:58 PM
  #49  
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Can anyone recommend a cap that will hold pressure for a pressure bleeder?
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Old Sep 10, 2023 | 08:58 AM
  #50  
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My Motive brand brake bleeder cap works. I have metal one fit for "most cars".
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Old Sep 10, 2023 | 06:07 PM
  #51  
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Motive sells their late model GM adapter that fits our car perfectly
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Old Sep 11, 2023 | 07:21 AM
  #52  
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Changed the fluid to SRF probably about a month after getting the car in August of 2020. I pressure bleed all the calipers after 2 track days to put fresh fluid I the calipers. Been SRF since then, and check the water content of the fluid with a Brake fluid checker and it has always been fine. I see no reason to change back to a lower grade of fluid after a track day. IMO
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 08:52 AM
  #53  
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I am changing out my four calipers, would it best to change them one at a time and bleed or remove and replace all four and bleed them?
​​​​​​
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 09:45 AM
  #54  
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I see many people use the Motive bleeder to PUSH fluid through. Although I do have a Motive bleeder I prefer my other bleeding tool which draws fluid through. Has anyone else tried this method? I find it less messy too.
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 11:42 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Bobbo76
I see many people use the Motive bleeder to PUSH fluid through. Although I do have a Motive bleeder I prefer my other bleeding tool which draws fluid through. Has anyone else tried this method? I find it less messy too.
If you are talking about a vacuum bleeder GM recommends not to use one.
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 12:08 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Bobbo76
I see many people use the Motive bleeder to PUSH fluid through. Although I do have a Motive bleeder I prefer my other bleeding tool which draws fluid through. Has anyone else tried this method? I find it less messy too.
Due to the design of the system on the C8, gm says not to use a vacuum system.

There are really nice pressure bleeders, and while many have Motive, I find Ares makes a far superior unit with much better fitting caps and quick disconnects.
Amazon Amazon
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 12:53 PM
  #57  
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The best way to bleed is with a fluid pusher. The professional units use a diaphragm to separate the air from the new fluid. The second would be the two-person method.

The motive bleeder is a non-separate bleeder that is designed to push the new fluid with air. It appears some use it to just pressurize the system. This is not ideal because it does not separate the air from the fluid. The effects of the humidity, and aspiration of the fluid becomes more of a factor. When using the motive bleeder, the way it was designed, which is to push the fluid will reduce the negative effects of the air pressure since it is working against a larger volume of fluid. The issue is that this method can be messy, although no worse than the gold standard diaphragm bleeders.

Vacuum bleeding should not be used since the sealing in the brake system is designed to be loaded from the inside.

I have used the Motul RBF dot 4 fluids (600) for many track cars with good results and have used it on the street without any issues. They also offer it in a 660, 700 and 5.1. I have very little experience with the 5.1, (not the same as dot 5) and has a higher boiling point then the dot 4.







.

Last edited by Drew888; Nov 18, 2024 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 10:06 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by rlhammon
There are really nice pressure bleeders, and while many have Motive, I find Ares makes a far superior unit with much better fitting caps and quick disconnects.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP79C7S/
Does the 42mm Master Cylinder Adapter Cap that it comes with work, or does the additional 50.7mm Master Cylinder Adapter Cap need to be used?

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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 04:17 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by FLC6GS
Does the 42mm Master Cylinder Adapter Cap that it comes with work, or does the additional 50.7mm Master Cylinder Adapter Cap need to be used?
I used the 49.5mm adapter which was an additional purchase above and beyond the bleeder. I couldn't find a Ares part number with this size adapter online at the time, but for me it works for all 4 of my vehicles (3 gm and 1 Ford).
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