Z51 track prep complete list
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Texas
Z51 track prep complete list
I know there's a performance sup handbook for track use, ..
However it doesn't seem to give a Complete list....
From what I gather so far:
1.Break in: motor/trans/brakes etc
2. Change engine oil/filter before track use after break in
3. Change trans filter during first engine oil change...not listed in performance handbook but listed in normal manual
4. Add extra 2 qts of atf if the cars gonna be a track dog
5. Performance alignment
6. Change out brake fluid to high temp
7. Set ride height....non axle lift cars can be corner balanced
8. Check brake cooling ducts
Let me know what I am missing,...actually a good amount of stuff
However it doesn't seem to give a Complete list....
From what I gather so far:
1.Break in: motor/trans/brakes etc
2. Change engine oil/filter before track use after break in
3. Change trans filter during first engine oil change...not listed in performance handbook but listed in normal manual
4. Add extra 2 qts of atf if the cars gonna be a track dog
5. Performance alignment
6. Change out brake fluid to high temp
7. Set ride height....non axle lift cars can be corner balanced
8. Check brake cooling ducts
Let me know what I am missing,...actually a good amount of stuff
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,529
Likes: 1,943
From: Austin Texas
General track prep also includes::
9. check torque on every nut and bolt holding engine, transmission, and suspension to chassis.
10. check tires for bulges, remaining life, air pressure,...
11. get rid of potentially flying debris in cabin, bonnet, rear trunk
12. check coolant level
13. check belts for remaining life
9. check torque on every nut and bolt holding engine, transmission, and suspension to chassis.
10. check tires for bulges, remaining life, air pressure,...
11. get rid of potentially flying debris in cabin, bonnet, rear trunk
12. check coolant level
13. check belts for remaining life
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 22,598
Likes: 14,556
I know there's a performance sup handbook for track use, ..
However it doesn't seem to give a Complete list....
From what I gather so far:
1.Break in: motor/trans/brakes etc
2. Change engine oil/filter before track use after break in
3. Change trans filter during first engine oil change...not listed in performance handbook but listed in normal manual
4. Add extra 2 qts of atf if the cars gonna be a track dog
5. Performance alignment
6. Change out brake fluid to high temp
7. Set ride height....non axle lift cars can be corner balanced
8. Check brake cooling ducts
Let me know what I am missing,...actually a good amount of stuff
However it doesn't seem to give a Complete list....
From what I gather so far:
1.Break in: motor/trans/brakes etc
2. Change engine oil/filter before track use after break in
3. Change trans filter during first engine oil change...not listed in performance handbook but listed in normal manual
4. Add extra 2 qts of atf if the cars gonna be a track dog
5. Performance alignment
6. Change out brake fluid to high temp
7. Set ride height....non axle lift cars can be corner balanced
8. Check brake cooling ducts
Let me know what I am missing,...actually a good amount of stuff
2. You do not need to set or alter ride-height and you don't have to do the hardcore track alignment. Those are optional. They are suggesting returning to factory trim height if you decide to lower it to absolve themselves of liability for low ride height (crash tests etc. etc. are done at certain trim heights).
3. The only things you must do to head to the track are to break the car in, check the engine oil, add 2 quarts of trans fluid. GM advises flushing out the factory DOT4 to something over 590 dry boiling, but I'm not going to before my first weekend. After that SRF will go in, but doubt I'll have time to get it done before Hyperfest. The OEM DOT 4 is still good fluid... just be cognizant of the pedal.
General track prep also includes::
9. check torque on every nut and bolt holding engine, transmission, and suspension to chassis.
10. check tires for bulges, remaining life, air pressure,...
11. get rid of potentially flying debris in cabin, bonnet, rear trunk
12. check coolant level
13. check belts for remaining life
9. check torque on every nut and bolt holding engine, transmission, and suspension to chassis.
10. check tires for bulges, remaining life, air pressure,...
11. get rid of potentially flying debris in cabin, bonnet, rear trunk
12. check coolant level
13. check belts for remaining life
OEM belt is good for 150K miles per the service guide.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 22,598
Likes: 14,556
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 857
From: MI
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 216
Likes: 75
Track tires would be on that list for sure. Not talking slicks *and have no idea what fitments are out*, but a nice RE71 or sub 200TW tire would be good (PSC2's, ETC). The PS4S are OK, but there are much better out there for tracking especially to compliment the need to reduce some under steer. Great list so far!
Pro
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 532
Likes: 517
Track tires would be on that list for sure. Not talking slicks *and have no idea what fitments are out*, but a nice RE71 or sub 200TW tire would be good (PSC2's, ETC). The PS4S are OK, but there are much better out there for tracking especially to compliment the need to reduce some under steer. Great list so far!
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Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,855
Likes: 322
From: Raleigh NC
1. It doesn't say to change the oil before heading to the track, only to complete the 1,500 mile break-in and check the engine oil level multiple times as the engine may use more oil during break-in. You do not need to change the oil or trans filter until 7,500 miles; period. Can you do it earlier? Sure.
2. You do not need to set or alter ride-height and you don't have to do the hardcore track alignment. Those are optional. They are suggesting returning to factory trim height if you decide to lower it to absolve themselves of liability for low ride height (crash tests etc. etc. are done at certain trim heights).
3. The only things you must do to head to the track are to break the car in, check the engine oil, add 2 quarts of trans fluid. GM advises flushing out the factory DOT4 to something over 590 dry boiling, but I'm not going to before my first weekend. After that SRF will go in, but doubt I'll have time to get it done before Hyperfest. The OEM DOT 4 is still good fluid... just be cognizant of the pedal.
While nut-bolting the car is a good idea... I wouldn't say every bolt. The factory has very advanced torque instruments. I would check the basics of the suspension though.
OEM belt is good for 150K miles per the service guide.
2. You do not need to set or alter ride-height and you don't have to do the hardcore track alignment. Those are optional. They are suggesting returning to factory trim height if you decide to lower it to absolve themselves of liability for low ride height (crash tests etc. etc. are done at certain trim heights).
3. The only things you must do to head to the track are to break the car in, check the engine oil, add 2 quarts of trans fluid. GM advises flushing out the factory DOT4 to something over 590 dry boiling, but I'm not going to before my first weekend. After that SRF will go in, but doubt I'll have time to get it done before Hyperfest. The OEM DOT 4 is still good fluid... just be cognizant of the pedal.
While nut-bolting the car is a good idea... I wouldn't say every bolt. The factory has very advanced torque instruments. I would check the basics of the suspension though.
OEM belt is good for 150K miles per the service guide.
I sure as hell hope they re-open by then... See you in the instructor meeting; can't wait to see your new C8!
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 22,598
Likes: 14,556