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I don't recall that occurring. I also installed when I got the car and was taking it easy for the 500 mile break-in. Did apply the brakes aggressively a few times to set the pads and to check that it stopped straight. It did so don't recall using the old bedding procedure as I did installing the Carbotech 1521's on my 2014 Z51 and 2017 Grand Sport.
NOTE bedding is no longer recommended as Adam said some folks were using an excessively aggressive procedure and over heating the 1521 pads. The old process was much less aggressive than that outlined in the Owner's Manual from Tracking with OEM Brembo pads. outline in my PDF as listed below:
Old Info from Carbotech BUT NO LONGER RECOMMENED:
Proper Bedding Instructions for the Bobcat 1521’s. Note Adam said Carbotech found users were overheating the 1521 pads when bedding, causing glazing! They now recommend not doing it. If you have a noise issue, I’d suggest you use this less aggressive procedure they had published previously for 1521 pads.
1. Brake from 60mph to 30mph (not 10 to 15 mph used for some race pads.)
2. Repeat step # 1, 5 to 6 times.
3. Let your brakes cool for about 2-3 minutes while driving.
4. Allow the brake pads and discs to cool down to ambient temperature (driving about 30 minutes without stopping).
Thank you Jerry! I'll shoot Adam a message asking him if this is normal. The install went good. The car stopped fine with no noises the little bit I drove it.
I cleaned up one of the wheels and was able to take it for a 21 mile ride. I'm happy to report very little dust at all this time and will probably get even better as they bed in more. I'm sure I'm going to be grateful for these CarboTech pads. It's funny because I am not new to doing brake work either. I owned and operated an auto repair shop for 13 years and then taught High School Auto Tech full time and college Automotive part time evenings both for 28 years. Just retired 5 years ago. I over reacted when I saw all of that dust at first. I think it was a combination of the wheels being so clean and the initial break-in dust not expecting it. Also being so noticeable on the clean wheels that it looked overwhelming! Thanks for all of the replies and advice. Hopefully this post will ease the mind of someone else that overreacts at first like I did.
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My PDF has most of the info. BUT the key first question is how will you jack it up high enough to get the front calipers off? The two bolts that hold the caliper are 155 ft-lbs and you'll need it lifted ~16 inches or so to get a long enough wrench to loosen and to get access for a torque wench to tighten.
You'll also note I bought a Torx Plus bit because a poster said it was needed! It wasn't only a standard Torx BUT the recess in the bolt can be easilly rounded IF you don't keep the socket perpendicular. There is Loctite on the 4 bolts that guide the front pads. I suggest even though it is small Torx to use an adapter and a 1/2 inch ratchet to help keep it perpendicular and the internal Torx bolt. That posted noted he bought new bolts and they were only plan Torx, not Torx Plus. He may have distorted the Torx socket so could not tell!
The PDF covers how I did it without removing the calipers (like I did my early 2014 Z51 that had the same very strong brake pad to piston double side tape.) I strongly suggest removing the calipers as it is much safer than risking damaging the piston dust boots. It suggests to 1st remove the caliper brace that needs a special socket (specs in PDF) as I had to do as it makes new pad install much easier even with caliper removed.
just swapped my front brake pads and found JerryU’s guide very helpful. Since this is the first pad swap, I had to do the trick to release the sticky take from the pistons. Here’s a simple trick I found to make the job easy without removing the calipers…
Use the 1” wide paint scraped to get a corner wedged between the piston and brake pad. You don’t have to drive it all the way down and you only need to get a corner started. Once its tapped in with a hammer at least 1/8” to protect the dust boot, use a small flat head screw driver to wedge between the piston and paint scraper. A few light taps and the pad will pop right off. The flat paint scraper will protect the dust boot and the screw driver will wedge down pretty easy to release the tape. I was able to get all 4 front pads to release in under 10 minutes, and was able to swap the front pads out in under an hour without removing the calipers.
@JerryU - consider putting this tip into your pdf to help others, and thanks for your writeup!
just swapped my front brake pads and found JerryU’s guide very helpful. Since this is the first pad swap, I had to do the trick to release the sticky take from the pistons. Here’s a simple trick I found to make the job easy without removing the calipers…
Use the 1” wide paint scraped to get a corner wedged between the piston and brake pad. You don’t have to drive it all the way down and you only need to get a corner started. Once its tapped in with a hammer at least 1/8” to protect the dust boot, use a small flat head screw driver to wedge between the piston and paint scraper. A few light taps and the pad will pop right off. The flat paint scraper will protect the dust boot and the screw driver will wedge down pretty easy to release the tape. I was able to get all 4 front pads to release in under 10 minutes, and was able to swap the front pads out in under an hour without removing the calipers.
@JerryU - consider putting this tip into your pdf to help others, and thanks for your writeup!
Thanks! I just updated last week with input from someone who used a jack and jack stand on the frame for an easier way to "remove the caliper." I will add your procedure as easier than what I used. Will include your forum name!
Sounds like rather than use a 1 inch paint scraper and hit with a hammer as I did past the dust boot, you just used it stating in a corner ann inserted only a small distance all above the dust boot. Than wedged a screwdriver between the paint scraper and pad back and hit it to break the tape hold.
Just made these two pics. Do they represent what you did?
pushed pistons back from rotor
put 1" paint scraper only as far as top of dust boot
used screwdriver between paint scraper and pad back to pry pad from tape.
How many miles (or Track events) did you have on those pads?
I hadn’t though my of this, but basically did your method partially by wedging the scraped between the piston and pad (only about 1/8-1/4”). Once the scraper flat surface was secure and the dust boot was protected, I used the screw driver to finish the job.
relating to your picture - put the scraper down more between the piston/dust boot and the pad and then used the screw driver to wedge between scraper and pad. Does that help?
6200
miles on car, don’t think any track days but I’m second owner and cannot verify for sure. There was almost no wear in the pads when removed, so the guy before me babied the car.
6200
miles on car, don’t think any track days but I’m second owner and cannot verify for sure. There was almost no wear in the pads when removed, so the guy before me babied the car.
Thanks, that means that folks changing as I did week 1 should be able to duplicate as the gap from pad to rotor would be about the same!
Jerry
Once the 9mm 10pt bolt is remove, how do you remove that pin? Do you have to spread the pin clips?
The issue is more getting in back on. You can spread the clips within the elastic limit to pull it out. Someone suggested a small screwdriver to leverage it back in.
Just looked at my How Too PDF and this is what I did 5 years ago and best I can recall:
I used plyers to “spread" he clips to install the clamp bolt. Yep I spread them slightly past the spring back limit and use plyers to squeeze back. Mine where fine for 4 years when I sold the 2020 C8 Z51.
When removing the top spring be sure you note its exact position. The ends are centered and on the metal pad backs NOT on the pad. An install video showed one of the sides incorrectly NOT on one pad. An observant Forum member posted this pic from the video.
