Does someone have a list compiled of brake tools needed to replace front and rear pads and rotors on the C8 Z51? Torx sockets internal or external? Size? Regular Torx or are they Torx Plus? Spline sockets?
Thanks!

 

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My PDF has most of the info. BUT the key first question is how will you jack it up high enough to get the front calipers off? The two bolts that hold the caliper are 155 ft-lbs and you'll need it lifted ~16 inches or so to get a long enough wrench to loosen and to get access for a torque wench to tighten.

You'll also note I bought a Torx Plus bit because a poster said it was needed! It wasn't only a standard Torx BUT the recess in the bolt can be easilly rounded IF you don't keep the socket perpendicular. There is Loctite on the 4 bolts that guide the front pads. I suggest even though it is small Torx to use an adapter and a 1/2 inch ratchet to help keep it perpendicular and the internal Torx bolt. That posted noted he bought new bolts and they were only plan Torx, not Torx Plus. He may have distorted the Torx socket so could not tell!

The PDF covers how I did it without removing the calipers (like I did my early 2014 Z51 that had the same very strong brake pad to piston double side tape.) I strongly suggest removing the calipers as it is much safer than risking damaging the piston dust boots. It suggests to 1st remove the caliper brace that needs a special socket (specs in PDF) as I had to do as it makes new pad install much easier even with caliper removed.

This is the many pics, detailed captions of my install. 1st 11 pages cover the C8.
http://netwelding.com/Ceramic_Pads.pdf

Poster said the 4 guide pins used for the front pads were Torx Plus. They were not only standard Torx.

 

Thanks Jerry, I will refer to your PDF. Lifting the car is no problem I have an Atlas two post above ground lift in my garage. I just wanted to get the tools on order. I have regular Torx and Torx Plus sockets but I heard someone mention on here about a spline socket was needed.

 

Yep, you'll see in the PDF I used the special scoket for the caliper brace. It's the same one used by Porsche and others. You don't have t remove the brace if removing the calipers BUT as someone PM'd me it is a PIA to get the caliper back on with the pads in place. So before you remove the caliper IMO best to remove the caliper brace and without having someone hold the caliper in their hands while you try to gte those guide pins out do as I did. Then you can put the caliper back empty of pads and just drop them in from the top. In fact for all future pad replacement no need to remove the caliper, just chage as you will the rears, which don't have that strong doubled sided tape.

Bought my caliper brace socket on Amazon.

 

Now granted I dont have a C8, the front & rear calipers are dang near identical to what the C7 uses so the process should be the same. I have yet to remove a caliper to change pads. I remove the brake reservoir cap and let it sit on the reservoir. Then I remove the cross pins and pull the spring bars out. Then I remove the center caliper cross bolt. Then I use my hands to work the old pads back and forth to push the pistons back in, then I pull the pads out partially and repeat the process. Once done the pistons are pushed back in far enough. I then pull the old pads, grease the backing plate on the new pads and slide them in.

It takes me maybe 1h:15M to do the front and rear calipers, that includes taking my time to clean the inside of the wheel barrels as well.

Are you C8 owners actually removing the calipers to change the brake pads?

 

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Look at my PDF, post #2. Front Z51 brakes are totally different than all but the very early 2014 Z51 (which I was lucky enough to have!) The front pads use strong double sided tape between the pads and pistons. Same tape as used by some other European cars.

PIA to remove and risk damaging the piston brake dust boots if you try to do with the caliper on the car. All spelled out with many pics in the PDF for the C8 Z51 as well as the early 2014. Now if you are getting the base C8 those smaller calipers I don't believe have the tape. But then why would you change pads as they also don't have excess dust (similar to C7.)

Easy safe way to break the tape loose is with the caliper and pads off the rotor. BTW, back brakes are like the C7.

 

Not sure if this is in Jerry's PDF, but note that GM says it is mandatory to disconnect the battery before doing any brake work due to the self-test features of the e-boost brake system.

 

+1. A must. Along with anything electrical on this car.

 

C8s must be different than the C7, I replaced the front pads on my 2019 GS and they were just as easy and quick as my 2015 stingray none Z51 car?? No special tools , removing the two pins and the pads literally fall out..

 

Yep, covered. Scared me when they said a simple opening the door could cycle the eBoost pump. ~3000 psi pressure on pistons without pads sounded like a big mess! Since I changed my pads WITHOUT removing the calipers (not recommended but a posted said it was EASY to break the hold of the tape and showed what he did!) He must have had a bad batch of tape! However having addressed the issue with my early (September 2013 built) C7 Z51 I used a similar technique. Has a risk of damaging the piston dust boots so I recommend remodeling the calipers. But first remove the caliper brace bolt so the caliper can be reinstalled without pads then those slipped in as I did.

 

Not that it matters much but just the key coming near the car during the process can.

 

Yep. There is strong double sided tape holding the pads to the pistons. Used on some European cars as well. Was also used on my early 2014 Z51- eliminated mid 2014.

Here are a few pics from the >25 in my PDF: http://netwelding.com/Ceramic_Pads.pdf


To remove calipers two bolts hold from back side. Need room for breaker bar to remove and torque wrench to install with 155 ft-lbs. Fellow is putting his shoulder into removal on a lift!

Risk using paint scraper ground to knife edge on one side and heavy hammer blows is you risk damaging piston dust boots.

 

Anyone have a suggestion for a good caliper spreader?

 

Changed to low dust pads in my 2014 Z51, 2017 Grand Sport and now C8. never needed one. With the pads in place for the C8 used a small clamp and pulled them back. Can also wedge something between pads and rotor- did that on my 6 piston GS front calibers.
Just Sayn'

 

What is the purpose of the double sided tape? Do replacement non OEM pads come with this tape?

 

Doubt replacement pads include the tape. It is to stop vibration and noise. In my 3 installs, albeit Carbotech Low Dust Pads never had a noise issue. This is what I use not only on the sides as GM recommends but also the pad backs.

 

Great information, thanks

 

Have you ever used this or copper lubricant on the pad guide pins? I’m starting to get where the pads are slightly squealing riding against the rotor. Not sure if the pads are not retracting due to being to tight on the guide pins or the spring tensions clips are not doing their job. I know the pads should be firm on the guides but not tight. My pads are half worn now after four track days and should have two more days on them but either way they will definitely come off after my next weekend this coming up. Obviously when you apply the brakes it instantly goes away. Rotors defiantly not warped and is happening on the front two for they’re worn half down. They get some pretty heavy use. I can live with it but like solving and understanding all aspects.

 

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No, never did that. But can't hurt. Going that far might as well pull the pads, lub the sides and back of the pads as well.

 

After installing the CarboTech Pads on the initial drive did the pads produce a lot of brake dust from the new pads as in the picture?