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Watched all the videos before I started removing the wheel and read many strings in the forum (even the horror stories). In the end I had a buddy help and with just two pulls when I added a lever pole over my breaker bar it was all over. Put the wheel back on and sitting in the corner with my thumb in my mouth crying now. This happened after I tried heat with a small torch as read on here and every other trick I could find on the net. please tell me there is a way if you figured it out.
Man I feel you. The exact same thing happened to me when I tried to remove mine to replace it with a Paragon carbon fiber wheel in August of last year. I ended up taking it to my mechanic and they used every compressed air chisel and tool they could to remove it. Two guys and a half hour later and it was off, so it cost me a full hour of labor or $135 or so. They couldn’t believe how tight the thing was on and it was tough to remove down to the very last thread. I bought a new one online before having them remove it. Check out what it looked like a next to the new one once they got it off. Sadly someone on the line is a little overzealous with the thread locker and torque spec. Paragon assured me this is rare but I’ve heard from enough people with similar experience to know that it does happen. Fortunately the new wheel is really awesome so I feel it was worth it.
I've had to air chisel off many of them. First thing I do is tap the torx socket into the bolt and use an impact gun. If it strips, out comes the air chisel.
I'm an engineer and love to hate my bretheren. Why would they not use a normal six point bolt head or at least leave a good shoulder on it so you could get some vice grips on it. Someone's better idea. At least its not counter sunk in a hole.
You have to be SO-SO careful with the air chisel or you can do some REAL damage. First, I'd drill the center of your bolt drive in a good quality easy-out along with heating it again. Worked for me ...........................
IMO, they go a little to the extreme with the impacts at Bowling Green. The bolts do have blue Lock-Tight on them. Good luck with whatever you do.
Last edited by Kevin A Jones; Apr 9, 2022 at 08:33 PM.
Officially thrown in the towel. Breaker bar first as noted then bought a dewalt impact driver with MAC tools T50 RBRT. the bit held and thought this was going to be it. After a few hits more, strip. Ill wait for my Zora to trick it out from the factory.
Officially thrown in the towel. Breaker bar first as noted then bought a dewalt impact driver with MAC tools T50 RBRT. the bit held and thought this was going to be it. After a few hits more, strip. Ill wait for my Zora to trick it out from the factory.
Just take it to a good mechanic and pay them to do it. I love my carbon fiber steering wheel and don't miss the money it cost me to have my mechanic drill the bolt and chisel it off so I could install the new wheel. Good mechanics are used to removing stripped bolts. As some have said, the way to do it is to pre drill it and then chisel it to turn it to get it off. You have to have the right tools AND know how to use them carefully so as not to damage anything as someone also said. These damn things are way beyond high quality bits and long breaker bars. It needs big boy tools to get it off. My mechanic is a cool guy and knows I'm a car guy and not a litigious a-hole so he went for it for me.
I unfortunately went through this not too long ago. I was thinking 15-30 minutes and the new steering wheel would be installed. After several hours and a stripped bolt I gave up. I took the car to the dealer and they used an air hammer to remove the bolt. The finished product was worth the pain.
Man I feel you. The exact same thing happened to me when I tried to remove mine to replace it with a Paragon carbon fiber wheel in August of last year. I ended up taking it to my mechanic and they used every compressed air chisel and tool they could to remove it. Two guys and a half hour later and it was off, so it cost me a full hour of labor or $135 or so. They couldn’t believe how tight the thing was on and it was tough to remove down to the very last thread. I bought a new one online before having them remove it. Check out what it looked like a next to the new one once they got it off. Sadly someone on the line is a little overzealous with the thread locker and torque spec. Paragon assured me this is rare but I’ve heard from enough people with similar experience to know that it does happen. Fortunately the new wheel is really awesome so I feel it was worth it.
Good luck.
when I tried to replace my steering wheel, I found out that mine was stripped by the dealership when they were fixing the AC issue. MF...ers not even want to admit it. But I was able to remove and reinstall the bolt with new T50 bit and hep of a friend.
Mine also would not come loose. A breaker bar and electric torque wrench didn't budge it. As a last resort, I took it to a shop and after about an 1 1/2 hrs, they were able to remove it with an air chisel .
I've seen these used on youtube, seem to be the very thing to break the thread lock loose and swing right out. I will be purchasing one if I ever get a D wheel
I've seen these used on youtube, seem to be the very thing to break the thread lock loose and swing right out. I will be purchasing one if I ever get a D wheel
That looks like my next tool! I don't know if I would use it on my C8 but I have lots of other uses.
Wow. Interesting problem.
From this thread, I think I would first use a bit of heat to relax the blue Locktite.
Then use the manual impact driver, with an absolutely high-quality torx bit....great idea from Wade (post 18)
Then move to a manual breaker bar....maybe even with an assistant to ensure alignment.
Then use an air wrench last.
The air chisel, just wow.
Surprising issues.
FWIW
Would replacing the OEM button head torx bolt with a six-sided head bolt be beneficial (and fit)?
And what is the install torque for that bolt?
Stripped Steering Wheel Bolt
