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C8 Brake Bleeding

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Old Feb 1, 2025 | 06:59 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by allblackeverything
can someone else verify this please?
It did not work for me for the first time. So, I started all over again with disconnecting the neg. terminal and re-bled the brakes, RR, LR, RF, and LF. Reconnected the neg terminal. Pumped the brakes and restarted the car. All the same waring lights returned. Then I followed the procedure as described earlier. Restarted the car and the icons disappeared for the yellow engine icon.

Thanks!


Last edited by bhk2; Feb 8, 2025 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2025 | 04:07 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by C8gofast
To clear the brake codes, push the start button without stepping on the brake petal to power up the car. Do not start the engine. Then press firmly down on the brake pedal for 20-30 seconds. You will hear clicking noise during this process. When the clicking stops you can start the car and the brakes will be reset , the codes cleared and warning lights gone.
Originally Posted by allblackeverything
can someone else verify this please?
Originally Posted by bhk2
did not work for me.
This did work for me the one time I forgot to set pads after changing them after a track day and jumped in car, started and backed off the lift to put another car on. I had to do it like 15 times before it finally worked but it fixed the ABS clicking and lights. I have a code reader and dont remember now if I had to clear anything else but the prolonged brake pedel hold in accessory mode eventually reset the ABS and cleared the light. Took many, many attempts doing exactly the same thing over and over before it worked.
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Old Feb 15, 2025 | 09:36 PM
  #43  
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GM may say not to vacuum bleed but I have done it on my c8 z06 with success but I also keep a close eye on fluid level and have a gravity feed connected. Yes, you CAN vacuum bleed. May not be what they recommend but I was able to do it successfully with my CCB rotor change.
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 12:50 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by C8gofast
To clear the brake codes, push the start button without stepping on the brake petal to power up the car. Do not start the engine. Then press firmly down on the brake pedal for 20-30 seconds. You will hear clicking noise during this process. When the clicking stops you can start the car and the brakes will be reset , the codes cleared and warning lights gone.
Man you totally save me! This worked! Thanks!!
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Old Apr 23, 2025 | 02:17 PM
  #45  
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I just replaced my brake fluid (Castrol SRF) using a Motive power bleeder. You really have to be careful with the power bleeder caps. In my case it was very difficult to seat properly. The result is the cap blew off of under pressure. I was at the rear brake caliper at the time. The air pressure aerosolized the brake fluid into a large fog of fine droplets. I spent some time cleaning brake fluid up (washed the car) that settled on the car and the garage. A day and a half later, I experienced the first symptoms of chemical lung irritation. The MSDS for the brake fluid does not show a lot of toxic effects. Still pretty bad though with heavy cough and low grade fever lasting over 5 days. I suggest the use of an N95 mask just in case.

Last edited by Ultima Guy; Apr 23, 2025 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Typo Correction
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Old Apr 23, 2025 | 02:22 PM
  #46  
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For that very reason, most folks never fill the motive with the fluid. The reservoir is already pretty large and you can easily bleed the brakes using only air in the tool, and refilling the reservoir once or twice during the whole process.
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Old Apr 23, 2025 | 02:31 PM
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Actually, I didn't use the Motive reservoir. I used a filter, air/water separator and regulator assembly (15 PSI) attached to my air compressor and then to the Motive cap.
The aerosolized brake fluid came from the brake reservoir that was full at the time.
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Old Apr 23, 2025 | 03:06 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Ultima Guy
Actually, I didn't use the Motive reservoir. I used a filter, air/water separator and regulator assembly (15 PSI) attached to my air compressor and then to the Motive cap.
The aerosolized brake fluid came from the brake reservoir that was full at the time.
I see. In your case, you have 'constant' 15 PSI, which was probably enough to atomize the fluid. I use the motive bleeder can in my case, and in rare cases when it failed, its pressure was quickly depleted, preventing any such issue. I should also note, I only add 10-12 PSI..
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Old Apr 23, 2025 | 06:48 PM
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Good Point
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Old Apr 24, 2025 | 12:10 PM
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Yeah I didn’t fill the motiv reservoir the first two times I filled the main reservoir as I wanted to make sure all the old fluid was gone. Then I did fill it for the main flush on all four corners but realized you really don’t need to as the main reservoir is quite large.

When doing a flush the second time, how much do you pull through each bleeder on each corner? I was doing 10 oz per corner. 8oz on the front bleeder and 2oz on the rear one. Not sure I need to use that much just to flush it?
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