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This should probably get pinned somewhere. Or maybe it already has been and I can’t find it.
but I failed to do any research before bleeding my brake system and it’s been quite the hassle to get it fixed.
you MUST disconnect the battery on the car. Even if the car is off, is not enough.
I hope this post saves 1 person the headache of what I just went through today.
if you fail to do this you will have to get someone with a GM tool in order to remove the ABS/ESC lights as I couldn’t find a scanner today under $700 that would clear them.
To clear the brake codes, push the start button without stepping on the brake petal to power up the car. Do not start the engine. Then press firmly down on the brake pedal for 20-30 seconds. You will hear clicking noise during this process. When the clicking stops you can start the car and the brakes will be reset , the codes cleared and warning lights gone.
It could have been worse. The ABS self test could have kicked on and spit your caliper pistons out. Ive gotten lucky on my other brake by wire car before i knew better.
It could have been worse. The ABS self test could have kicked on and spit your caliper pistons out. Ive gotten lucky on my other brake by wire car before i knew better.
luckily for me the calipers were in place with brake pads holding the pistons securely in place!
Definitely disconnect the battery first! I use a pressure bleeder, I think it was a Motive pump style make sure you get the adapter for the master cylinder. I take most of the old fluid out with a turkey baster, lol hey it works, pour some new fluid in, fill pressure bleeder, hook it up pump to about 20#+ then bleed as usual, make sure you never let pressure bleeder go dry. When done gently pump brake pedal a few times, a stiff pedal then connect battery and you should be all set.
Definitely disconnect the battery first! I use a pressure bleeder, I think it was a Motive pump style make sure you get the adapter for the master cylinder. I take most of the old fluid out with a turkey baster, lol hey it works, pour some new fluid in, fill pressure bleeder, hook it up pump to about 20#+ then bleed as usual, make sure you never let pressure bleeder go dry. When done gently pump brake pedal a few times, a stiff pedal then connect battery and you should be all set.
really wish I had asked you guys first before tackling this seemingly simple process.
I bought a motive pressure bleeder last night as I heard my vacuum bleeder might introduce air into the system.
really wish I had asked you guys first before tackling this seemingly simple process.
I bought a motive pressure bleeder last night as I heard my vacuum bleeder might introduce air into the system.
I use the pressure bleeder just as a pressure source...i dont fill it with fluid (just makes it a cleaner operation). After each caliper I top off the master cylinder, reattach the pressure bleeder as a pressure source and do the next caliper.
Many ways to skin this cat, but the main thing is disconnect the battery, LOL
Definitely disconnect the battery first! I use a pressure bleeder, I think it was a Motive pump style make sure you get the adapter for the master cylinder. I take most of the old fluid out with a turkey baster, lol hey it works, pour some new fluid in, fill pressure bleeder, hook it up pump to about 20#+ then bleed as usual, make sure you never let pressure bleeder go dry. When done gently pump brake pedal a few times, a stiff pedal then connect battery and you should be all set.
+1 The exact same way.
I usually have to put more fluid in the bottle than will be used but as you stated don’t let it run dry. Plus I like to use a rubber mallet to tap on the caliper before and during bleeding. It definitely frees up a few bubbles each time.
Last edited by NoMatter; Jan 11, 2023 at 05:31 PM.
To clear the brake codes, push the start button without stepping on the brake petal to power up the car. Do not start the engine. Then press firmly down on the brake pedal for 20-30 seconds. You will hear clicking noise during this process. When the clicking stops you can start the car and the brakes will be reset , the codes cleared and warning lights gone.
To clear the brake codes, push the start button without stepping on the brake petal to power up the car. Do not start the engine. Then press firmly down on the brake pedal for 20-30 seconds. You will hear clicking noise during this process. When the clicking stops you can start the car and the brakes will be reset , the codes cleared and warning lights gone.
Can anyone recommend a reservoir cap that works well for pressure bleeding?
I took a leap of faith and i did! having tried all the other solutions
I got a universal adapter and a pressure pump. This you can buy any pump/adapter combo but these 2 worked for me. I bring this up because for some reason the generic gm motive ones don't screw unto the c8 and i suspect some c7s as well.
The thin gasket is too thin, the thick one too thick. i even tried shaving down the thick one, and adding some brake fluid to lubricate, nothing worked.
I found a cap that is supposed to be for a TESLA. I posted link on another thread here related to brake bleeding disaster.
Anyway, the tesla cap works very well because it locks using the lugs around the filler neck, and it has a large o-ring that expands to fit the filler neck.
I just had to build some adapters to connect it to the pressure bleeder that I got. It holds pressure and works well.
I wouldn't use a universal cap. This reservoir looks really easy to crush/damage.
I wouldn't use a universal cap. This reservoir looks really easy to crush/damage.
There's different kinds of universal caps and i agree with you in general, for ones that go around the reservoir itself but the one i linked is so much better and has a more secure hold than any I've ever tried since it encircles the cap. It's also the only one i've used that hasn't caused any additional damage to my brake fluid reservoir as i'm sure you know, trying on non-exact caps start to chip away at the plastic and can reduce the effectiveness of the cap over-time. I'm glad the tesla one is compatible though! more options the better! but since i had a hard time finding a plug and play solution, just dropping that this might be it.
Reposting your tesla post here for reference ->
The red tesla cap is well engineered and works, however it only goes on with the "T1" logo at the 10 o'clock position. Not sure why, but it is what it is. Also have to have the tension on the o-ring set just right to get the cap to seat and twist lock into position. Once in the locked position, the o-ring expansion **** has to be really tightened well to get a solid seal at 20PSI. One issue however is it uses a male quick disconnect fitting that is proprietary and I couldn't find a female QD fitting anywhere. I ended up getting an O-ring and sliding it into the fitting, then sliding tubing over the O-ring and locking it behind the O-ring. If the tubing were to try to slip off, it would have to compress that O-ring in the process. It held up well, but in hindsight, I think I will add an additional clamp on the other side of the o-ring as well. I am using Oetiker clamps.
So if i want to remove my calipers to paint/powdercoat, i must first disconnect the battery, and upon reinstallation bleed the brakes, and then clear the codes?
Just verifying that i do not need gm software for this?
So if i want to remove my calipers to paint/powdercoat, i must first disconnect the battery, and upon reinstallation bleed the brakes, and then clear the codes?
Just verifying that i do not need gm software for this?
if you mean removing them from the bracket leaving the brake lines disconnected, no you don't have to clear codes. It's a general rule of thumb to disconnect the battery with modern cars and brake systems.
If you're removing the brake lines, you probably also don't have to clear codes as long as you bleed the system.