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After installing the Borla ATAK on my '23 Z51 C8 I got a CEL on the first startup. I gave the car a few hundred miles to see if it would self resolve, but it did not. So, I used my Launch tool to perform the relearn. For some reason, I couldn't get the AFM Valves to cycle. So, I took the car back to the shop where I had the exhaust installed and had them try with their equipment. While they were able to get both sets of valves to relearn, they couldn't get the AFM Valves to come into spec. As such, the only way to get the CEL to stay out was to install Paragon Simulators on the AFM Valves. Not an ideal solution, but fortunately not an expensive fix. Nonetheless, after paying almost $6,000 for the exhaust and installation I think I shouldn't have to accept this. I've written to Borla to ask for their thoughts on this, but I haven't heard back from them yet. Despite the issue with the AFM Valves, I love this exhaust! The sound is incredible and, for me, really completes the car.
Happy New Year!
There's no reason that the valves won't relearn unless the are totally clocked wrong or they damaged one of them during the install.
After installing the Borla ATAK on my '23 Z51 C8 I got a CEL on the first startup. I gave the car a few hundred miles to see if it would self resolve, but it did not. So, I used my Launch tool to perform the relearn. For some reason, I couldn't get the AFM Valves to cycle. So, I took the car back to the shop where I had the exhaust installed and had them try with their equipment. While they were able to get both sets of valves to relearn, they couldn't get the AFM Valves to come into spec. As such, the only way to get the CEL to stay out was to install Paragon Simulators on the AFM Valves. Not an ideal solution, but fortunately not an expensive fix. Nonetheless, after paying almost $6,000 for the exhaust and installation I think I shouldn't have to accept this. I've written to Borla to ask for their thoughts on this, but I haven't heard back from them yet. Despite the issue with the AFM Valves, I love this exhaust! The sound is incredible and, for me, really completes the car.
Happy New Year!
I had same problem on customers car. contact borla and they asked for some codes and they ended up replacing the exhaust and reimbursing me the installation cost. They went above and beyond to fix the problem. Your shop should have contacted them in my opinion.
Thank you for your reply JJones! As I mentioned, I have personally reached out to Borla, so I will be interested to see how they respond. I believe the shop would have reached our for me, but I told them I wanted to do it. The shop that did the install is 1st rate and very reputable.
After several months of driving, the CEL keeps coming back. I've tried relearn with my Foxwell NT530 and it still keeps getting the CEL. Not sure what is causing it. I've got a bluetooth OBD dongle that when it throws the CEL, I can clear the codes with my phone but that doesn't last.
It seems there are a few of us that DO have the CEL that we can't get rid of. I know that it works properly - the sound changes when I change the drive modes.
Does anyone here with the Borla Exhaust with the valves got it working properly without the CEL?
After several months of driving, the CEL keeps coming back. I've tried relearn with my Foxwell NT530 and it still keeps getting the CEL. Not sure what is causing it. I've got a bluetooth OBD dongle that when it throws the CEL, I can clear the codes with my phone but that doesn't last.
It seems there are a few of us that DO have the CEL that we can't get rid of. I know that it works properly - the sound changes when I change the drive modes.
Does anyone here with the Borla Exhaust with the valves got it working properly without the CEL?
Have you seen or heard of anyone who did the relearn with the Foxwell NT530 successfully? That's one thing I would want to know (or just try with another tool or the dealer). The only other possibility is an actual problem with the exhaust.
Have you seen or heard of anyone who did the relearn with the Foxwell NT530 successfully? That's one thing I would want to know (or just try with another tool or the dealer). The only other possibility is an actual problem with the exhaust.
Good question. I know the NT530 didn't work for me. I just put in the order for the LAUNCH X431. Supposedly going to be delivered Monday by Amazon. Amazing that Amazon has this just laying around and deliver to me in 2 days.
Speculation but: If the CEL(s) related to the valves in come back after a period of time after the learn process, it suggest that one or more of the valves are somehow sticking such that the travel changes enough (varies enough from the learned valve travel) to trigger the CEL. Or....I wonder if a loose actuator could cause it? That is, if the actuator is not firmly attached, it might shift slightly. Just removing and remounting the same actuator on the same valve can end up requiring a re-learn. You could check that the actuators are attached well and look for some evidence of play in the linkage or a valve that does not travel smoothly from open to close. Just opinion.
Speculation but: If the CEL(s) related to the valves in come back after a period of time after the learn process, it suggest that one or more of the valves are somehow sticking such that the travel changes enough (varies enough from the learned valve travel) to trigger the CEL. Or....I wonder if a loose actuator could cause it? That is, if the actuator is not firmly attached, it might shift slightly. Just removing and remounting the same actuator on the same valve can end up requiring a re-learn. You could check that the actuators are attached well and look for some evidence of play in the linkage or a valve that does not travel smoothly from open to close. Just opinion.
Good advice. I'll try to see what I can reach. Not much to see without removing the rear bumper cover - which isn't the easiest thing. Also, If there are others with the same issue, it's probably unlike that we all didn't bolt down the actuators correctly? Maybe the valves get stuck and don't move properly?
I'm also trying an experiment and driving in Manual mode so the car doesn't go to 4cylinder mode so the AFM valves don't switch. If no CEL then I can probably narrow it down to the AFM valves (unfortunately the more difficult one to access).
Good advice. I'll try to see what I can reach. Not much to see without removing the rear bumper cover - which isn't the easiest thing. Also, If there are others with the same issue, it's probably unlike that we all didn't bolt down the actuators correctly? Maybe the valves get stuck and don't move properly?
I'm also trying an experiment and driving in Manual mode so the car doesn't go to 4cylinder mode so the AFM valves don't switch. If no CEL then I can probably narrow it down to the AFM valves (unfortunately the more difficult one to access).
What cel are you getting. I think they might indicate which valve.
Hmm. I tried looking them up. The manual i bundles them together in a single diagnostic procedure and its not real clear which is which. Your tool seems to show the info as much as the manual. Bank2 refer to one side - I do not know which - but someone on the forum will know. Cylinder Deactivation Exhaust Flow Control Valve ... refers to (as you already knew) the AFM valve which is hard to access. The exhaust flow control valve pretty sure refers to the other - tailpipe flow control valve. I can see them on my car, but they would not be easy to inspect closely without some disassembly. My info comes just from looking at the manual. Perhaps a tech can interpret this better.
Hmm. I tried looking them up. The manual i bundles them together in a single diagnostic procedure and its not real clear which is which. Your tool seems to show the info as much as the manual. Bank2 refer to one side - I do not know which - but someone on the forum will know. Cylinder Deactivation Exhaust Flow Control Valve ... refers to (as you already knew) the AFM valve which is hard to access. The exhaust flow control valve pretty sure refers to the other - tailpipe flow control valve. I can see them on my car, but they would not be easy to inspect closely without some disassembly. My info comes just from looking at the manual. Perhaps a tech can interpret this better.
I wonder if I do have an issue with the hardware (exhaust valves) since it seems to have the code on Bank 2 -which ever side that is? If it's the relearn problem with the OBD then you would think it would have issues with both sides?
I wonder if I do have an issue with the hardware (exhaust valves) since it seems to have the code on Bank 2 -which ever side that is? If it's the relearn problem with the OBD then you would think it would have issues with both sides?
Don't know. The the code for the exhaust flow control valve, which I think is a tailpipe flow control does not indicate a bank. The code may indicate a side, but I was unable to figure it out.
I could not find the other code - the P31D3-00.
But the procedure I found for the p12F7, bundled with other codes does include as remedied depending on the test results valve binding sticking or dirty, replacement of the actuator, circuit repair, the learn procedure of course, Q15A Exhaust Flow Control Valve - Cylinder Deactivation Left, Test or replace the component: Q15B Exhaust Flow Control Valve - Cylinder Deactivation Right, Replace the component: K111 Fuel Pump Driver Control Module. As far as I can tell that is the procedure the dealer would go through if it was as stock system.
But, since its a new muffler system. its most likely the valves (again as you already knew). My research had not helped much.
I resolved my CEL. I am telling this so you can see what happened with my car - which is a fluke so may not apply to you.
My Foxwell NT530 has a relearn function but does not show if it was successful or anything happened. So I couldn't tell what the issue was other than the CEL codes. The codes were not real clear either. I got the Launch x431 OBD reader and it gave me more info. I could go into Actuation mode and open and close the valves to see which one was stuck. Turns out the driver side was stuck. The heat shield on the driver side was not formed properly to the exhaust pipe and stuck out which prevented the valve actuators from moving properly. Instead of taking the thing apart and waiting for the new part I put a couple tube clamps on to secure the heat shields and be out of the path of the actuators. Used the OBD to open and close the valves. Did a relearn and so far no CEL.
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