When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
DIYers .I’ll assume you all know to only check your oil level with warm engine and engine running , if not go read your manual and avoid a messy mistake and dumping oil into your intake manifold .
That said what I do is add 7 quarts . Drive for a while and recheck oil level . It’s usually between half and full . I then add a quartet quart and recheck . It’s just below full and that’s where I leave it. Life is good
Can't use with a C7 dry sump (unless filling very slowly as you would with a normal filter!) Member had oil spill on his garage floor right after a dealer oil change. Blamed dealer for overfilling. Dealer said they don't overfill. Dealer then called back and said sorry it wasn't overfill BUT we used a device like you pictured. The oil got high in the funnel and since it connects to the Oil Intake Fill Opening just like the cap it doesn't leak there. BUT some drains out the hose that burps air from the dry sump tank to the air intake tube after the air filter. It runs down, soaked the air filter and drips on the ground!
Find for the C7 Wet Sump and C8 (where it fits.)
(The scavenge pump that takes air from the crankcase also sucks in a lot of air. That air goes into the dry sump tank with the oil. Since it contains some oil mist EPA says can't just vent to the atmosphere must have it go into the engine air intake.)
Personally, my simple funnel works a-ok. I know that those allow the oil to flow quickly but not sure I need another thing to store. But nice nonetheless.
On the C8 the return path comes into the oil tank (on the front of the enigne) through what is called a "centrifugal air/oil separator" which is internal to the oil tank. The tank vents through a tube to tops of both rocker arm covers. That vent tube connection is near the very top oil tank. i don't know anything about the C7, and I don't know anything about using this device to fill the tank. But I believe, base on the description in the service manual, and also from the anatomy of the oil tank (posted by Jerry U a while ago) that if the tank is overfilled, the oil would start to flow through those tubes to the top of the rocker arm cover. The tank does not vent directly to the intake. There an air/oil separator also on top of the engine in what is called the engine valley. The tube from that separator is the one that goes to the intake, via the PCV valve.
........ BUT some drains out the hose that burps air from the dry sump tank to the air intake tube after the air filter. It runs down, soaked the air filter and drips on the ground!.....(The scavenge pump that takes air from the crankcase also sucks in a lot of air. That air goes into the dry sump tank with the oil. Since it contains some oil mist EPA says can't just vent to the atmosphere must have it go into the engine air intake.)
On the C8 the return path comes into the oil tank (on the front of the enigne) through what is called a "centrifugal air/oil separator" which is internal to the oil tank. The tank vents through a tube to tops of both rocker arm covers. That vent tube connection is near the very top oil tank. i don't know anything about the C7, and I don't know anything about using this device to fill the tank. But I believe, base on the description in the service manual, and also from the anatomy of the oil tank (that you first posted a long time ago) that if the tank is overfilled, the oil would start to flow through those tubes to the top of the rocker arm cover. The tank does not vent directly to the intake. There an air/oil separator also on top of the engine in what is called the engine valley. The tube from that separator is the one that goes to the intake, via the PCV valve.
^^^
The issue with the external C7 Dry Sump was different.
You had to fill very slowly to get the oil to drain past the internal dry sump baffles. Was a pain if you were pouring from a 5 quart jug. This funnel, that connected like a fill cap looked like a great solution since you could pour and have it say 3/4 full. Also easier to deal with oil from a 5 quart jug!
The problem was there was a hose that took air that the scavenge pump put in the dry sump tank. That air had to be burped into to the engine air intake tube after the air filter. That hose was very high in the tank, near the fill cap. So the oil in that attached funnel, ran into the burped air hose and into the air intake tube!
Like the oil foam caused by curing engine silicone seals, that caused GM to say change oil after 500 miles on dry sumps would also go down the burped air tube, run down and soak the air filter. It would then drip on the ground! That was the ONLY reason for the required 500 mile oil change in C7 dry sumps. (In fact the last sentance in the bulletin that came out 13 months AFTER I got my C7 Z51 said, the oil foam does not effect the engine durability. Had too as the foam could also occur in Wet Sumps. But no burped air hose in Wet Sumps and GM did not recommend a 500 mile oil change NOR pay for it as they did Dry Sumps!)
I used a normal funnel and put an old towel around the the opening and poured very slowly. If I poured too fast the oil would come out the opening! But as you show that funnel should be fine for the C8 as high oil in the funnel would not hurt anything.
^^^
The issue with the external C7 Dry Sump was different.
You had to fill very slowly to get the oil to drain past the internal dry sump baffles. Was a pain if you were pouring from a 5 quart jug. This funnel, that connected like a fill cap looked like a great solution since you could pour and have it say 3/4 full. Also easier to deal with oil from a 5 quart jug!
The problem was there was a hose that took air that the scavenge pump put in the dry sump tank. That air had to be burped into to the engine air intake tube after the air filter. That hose was very high in the tank, hear the fill cap. So the oil in that attached funnel, ran into the burped air hose and into the air intake tube! Like the oil foam caused by curing engine silicone seals, that had GM say change oil after 500 miles on dry sumps would also go down the burped air tube, run down and soak the air filter. It would then drip on the ground! That was the ONLY reason for the required 500 mile oil change in C7 dry sumps. (In fact the last sentance in the bulletin that came out 13 months AFTER I got my C7 Z51 said, the oil foam does not effect the engine durability. Had too as the foam could also occur in Wet Sumps. But no burped air hose in Wet Sumps and GM did not recommend a 500 mil oil change NOR pay for it as they did Dry Sumps!)
I used a normal funnel and put an old towel around the the opening and poured very slowly. If I poured too fast the oil would come out the opening! But as you show that funnel should be fine for the C8 as high oil in the funnel would not hurt anything.
Yes I think so. And the funnel would actually be getting inserted at the other end of the filler tube as well.
Adding oil to your C8
