When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Went to replace my C8 brake pads today and that part went great, but unfortunately when removing the rear passenger wheel I had a hell of a time removing a lug and as expected, turns out the there was cross threading and the wheel stud is about 50% stripped.
It’s a real shame since I’ve never taken the wheel off myself on this C8 - only the dealership. How big of a PITA will be to be replace the stud? Rear.
Not sure how to best approach the dealer pointing a finger saying they did this and need to fix for free.
Discount Tire typically does it for free, or cheap, it's unfortunately fairly common. Pound it out with a sledge then suck a new one through with an impact.
My 2 cents:
I always use forged aluminum lug nuts for this very reason. When a mistake is made, the weaker lugs get damaged instead of your lug nuts. One been using cars at the track for more than a decade, and I've never damaged a lug, even though I've damaged quitea few lug nuts due to rushing, using wrong tools, etc...
For my former cars, I've always used Gorilla Nuts (California brand), but for C8, I couldn't find any light, forged aluminum offering from them.
Yes, I've been using Bonoss, and have been pretty happy with them. I usually get extra, and put a lug nut to the glove box as a backup, but I'm yet to strip anything. As a bonus, they're also very light.
I get the dimpled ones, and I also get them in silver, so they'd not look ugly after using impact gun which eventually scratches their paint. Since I change tires a lot, this becomes important : ) https://www.bonoss.com/product/bonos...-sr-mr-lr-2018
Ideally the stud should be replaced with a press or tapped in with a hammer. If you drive it in with a nut you’re limited to 150ftlb of torque.
I have used aluminum lug nuts before on track applications. The forged lug concept is a bit misleading. Some are completely forged to shape with cold formed not cut threads. The later is more important. Can be a machined geometry with a cold formed thread. I’m not a fan for street use because they do wear out relatively quickly and are not the easiest component to inspect. Also aluminum does not have an infinite fatigue life so it’s not if, it’s when they will fail. When the the coatings wear it results in aluminum bearing on aluminum which causes galling. Never use any lubricant on wheel studs. This is the number cause for the type damage that has occurred in your situation.
These are limited to the maximum tensile load of the stud. If it is exceeded the stud will permanently elongate and will be damaged. Many times the damage is not visible. There is a reason studs are supposed to be installed from behind.
If the shoulder knurling on the replacement stud matches the original sometimes it requires a lower force to install and this type may work. Still not recommended. Even studs made by the same manufacturer can have enough of a difference in shoulder dims to require too much force to be pulled in.
Originally Posted by Mr. Black
I bought one of these a couple years ago. It works ridiculously well. Way easier than pounding or pressing.
These are limited to the maximum tensile load of the stud. If it is exceeded the stud will permanently elongate and will be damaged. Many times the damage is not visible. There is a reason studs are supposed to be installed from behind.
If the shoulder knurling on the replacement stud matches the original sometimes it requires a lower force to install and this type may work. Still not recommended. Even studs made by the same manufacturer can have enough of a difference in shoulder dims to require too much force to be pulled in.
I'm not disputing what you are saying at all. It is accurate.
That being said, have you ever personally used one of those ball bearing install tools? The amount of force on the threads is dramatically reduced by eliminating the friction of pressing against a stack of washers or a spacer.
Many of us also have enough experience to know when too much force is being applied and to take a step back.
I have used similar tools. The bearing does nothing for the axial load. I’m an engineer and I run a company that develops and manufactures threads. My first job when I was just out of high school was as a tire installer for sears. I have seen it all.
Originally Posted by Mr. Black
I'm not disputing what you are saying at all. It is accurate.
That being said, have you ever personally used one of those ball bearing install tools? The amount of force on the threads is dramatically reduced by eliminating the friction of pressing against a stack of washers or a spacer.
Many of us also have enough experience to know when too much force is being applied and to take a step back.
I was a professional mechanic before I was an engineer. I had to work my way through school. Many of my friends that still work at dealers call me when they’re in trouble.
Originally Posted by Mr. Black
lol mechanics hate hearing from engineers. Just sayin!
Absolutely a stereo type. I knew you were joking, just wanted to inform those on this thread that I have had a tremendous amount of hands-on experience working on cars and motorcycles for a living. I deal with many engineers daily that have no practical experience they know the theory and not the application. Many don't even know the theory that well.