changing oil technique
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 144
From: Little Egypt, USA
IMO it depends on the bolt and situation.
I learned over 55 years ago not to use a torque wrench on 1/4" size bolts and smaller since I don't like drills and easy outs.
I have nothing against torque wenches on larger sizes. I have a drawer full of them, 1/4" thru 3/4" drives.
My arm/hand is much more sensitive than a torque wrench when it comes to not going past the point of no return on the little ones.
I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug and that includes my cars.
Oil filters as tight as you can get it with your bare hands. Never had one leak or hard to remove with a filter wrench and normal effort.
Would I recommend a 16 yr old kid just starting out working on cars to do everything by hand, no. It takes experience to develop the feel.
Lug nuts are one area where I always use a torque wrench unless I'm on the side of the road. Tip in case you didn't know: never use any lubricant on the threads or nut/wheel contact surfaces or you will over torque them. The torque listed in the manual is for dry surfaces.
I learned over 55 years ago not to use a torque wrench on 1/4" size bolts and smaller since I don't like drills and easy outs.
I have nothing against torque wenches on larger sizes. I have a drawer full of them, 1/4" thru 3/4" drives.
My arm/hand is much more sensitive than a torque wrench when it comes to not going past the point of no return on the little ones.
I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug and that includes my cars.
Oil filters as tight as you can get it with your bare hands. Never had one leak or hard to remove with a filter wrench and normal effort.
Would I recommend a 16 yr old kid just starting out working on cars to do everything by hand, no. It takes experience to develop the feel.
Lug nuts are one area where I always use a torque wrench unless I'm on the side of the road. Tip in case you didn't know: never use any lubricant on the threads or nut/wheel contact surfaces or you will over torque them. The torque listed in the manual is for dry surfaces.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 3,983
Likes: 1,828
From: Western WI
Hand tight for oil pan drain plugs. Never had a leak or a stripped/damaged bolt in decades of doing oil changes on everything. I am currently doing annual oil changes on the C8, 2 lawn tractors, 2 snow blowers, 1 ATV, 2 UTVs and 4 snowmobiles.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 830
From: Chapel Hill NC
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Byhand but an old time machinist told me many years ago you have to develop a velvet touch.
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 12,351
Likes: 14,185
From: Central Illinois
Getting there is the thing. That sick feeling you get in your gut when a fastener goes from pretty tight to soft is horrible. I have the touch now after 50+ years of turning wrenches, but there was a learning curve.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 12,805
Likes: 10,224
From: Garden Valley CA
Tighten it up until you feel it start to yield and back it off a little...(JK)
I use torque wrenches more often now that I have an appropriate one for most torques than I used to. I've found my "feel" is usually a little tighter than what the torque wrench says but sometimes it is looser.
I use torque wrenches more often now that I have an appropriate one for most torques than I used to. I've found my "feel" is usually a little tighter than what the torque wrench says but sometimes it is looser.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 12,351
Likes: 14,185
From: Central Illinois
Certain things REALLY are critical too. The oil drain plug on the block of an LT6 screws into the block, not an oil pan. The block is a two piece matched assembly. I will not risk stripping out the block because I was too stupid/lazy to use one of my seven torque wrenches I own.