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Does it do the same no matter what setting? I.e., no difference in Track mode? If so, the shocks may have failed but I would expect code to be set. When MSRC shocks are unplugged they go dead soft.
But to answer your question, I don't have that problem.
Does it do the same no matter what setting? I.e., no difference in Track mode? If so, the shocks may have failed but I would expect code to be set. When MSRC shocks are unplugged they go dead soft.
But to answer your question, I don't have that problem.
ya same issue in all setting. No codes though. I also assumed it was shocks failing. Thank you
Look around the shaft where it enters the shock body, is it damp? If so, the shock is leaking and needs to be replaced. 65K on the shocks, I would not be surprised they just need to be replaced.
Look around the shaft where it enters the shock body, is it damp? If so, the shock is leaking and needs to be replaced. 65K on the shocks, I would not be surprised they just need to be replaced.
The MSRC shocks aren't considered wear items like regular shocks. While it is possible one or more failed it isn't that common. I agree it would be a good idea to take a look and see if they "wet" but it is normal for shocks to leak enough to collect dust.
OP, if you have the Chevrolet Platinum Protection Plan the MSRC shocks are covered under that plan.
I have had to replace the MSRC struts and rear shocks on my 23' CT4VBW a few times now. One rear at 13K miles, both fronts at 55K miles, and again fronts at 80K miles. Same symptoms each time, they end up with a clunk under sharp rebound which is more noticeable in stiffer modes. Each time you can see them leaking.
Hello, removed wheel and found some type of grey lubricant surrounding the shocks. Is this what a leaky shock is suppose to look like?
The bad shocks I've seen are wet looking but I haven't seen MSRC shocks that have leaked. I suspect that "grey lubricant" may be what the MSRC magnerotical fluid looks like after the carrier has dried up and the ferrimagnetic particles are left behind. I'd start by removing that shock and doing further inspection. Rockauto is probably the best place to get replacement shocks if you are going to do the job yourself.
That shock looks bad, it should be clean and dry, no grease or any muck should be under the dust cover. As RKCRLR mentions, Rock Auto is typically a good discount OEM supplier, but shop around and do some searching, you will find the price of new OEM parts vary greatly between vendors.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Definitely a bad shock. FYI, just an oily residue (which may collect dirt/dust) on an MR shock does not mean it's bad. What you have pictured is a perfect example of a bad MR shock. Here's the GM bulletin from the C6:
Inspect parts 5 and 6 and see how they look. Sometimes the springs wear though the the cushion material between the spring the the shock. I don't know what material the spring seats on the C8 are.
Ordered two shocks from gmpartsdirect - part number 85644946. ~$800 shipped. Received installation quotes between $490-$1200 to replace 2 rear shocks. Higher end price is from dealership, lower end price is from small local shops/performance shops. I went with local mechanic that I've been to before. Charged me $600 for 4 hours of labor. IMPORTANT, you need two special tools to complete/make the job easier, which I found out about after the fact. My mechanic broke the connectors while trying to disconnect it, had to purchase 2 new connectors because we didn't know there was a special tool to release the connectors. Also, he had to make a custom 17mm socket to loosen/tighten the strut tower nut. But, car rides great now lol.
Ordered two shocks from gmpartsdirect - part number 85644946. ~$800 shipped. Received installation quotes between $490-$1200 to replace 2 rear shocks. Higher end price is from dealership, lower end price is from small local shops/performance shops. I went with local mechanic that I've been to before. Charged me $600 for 4 hours of labor. IMPORTANT, you need two special tools to complete/make the job easier, which I found out about after the fact. My mechanic broke the connectors while trying to disconnect it, had to purchase 2 new connectors because we didn't know there was a special tool to release the connectors. Also, he had to make a custom 17mm socket to loosen/tighten the strut tower nut. But, car rides great now lol.
MRC+Z51 owners
