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What's the advantage of this versus just selecting the exhaust valves/volume setting (4 different options) right from the infotainment screen?
Originally Posted by Stoopalini
I think he meant what is the advantage of having an override switch (like using the Homelink or a hard-wired switch) vs just using the built in controls to select track exhaust mode.
Ah, yes, I see. In that case, the answer is little or no advantage whatsoever for Stingray. Whether there is some advantage forcing the valves open all the time, versus using the settings in the menu with the Z06 might depend whether or not the valves behave in a similar way for each of the settings.
As you found, the description of the function for Z06 appears the same as for Stingray in the Service Manual. And...the Owner's Manual also shows the same four settings for engine sound with nothing special indicated for the Z06. If there is any fine turning going on, its not mentioned anywhere except in what JerryU posted above.
does anyone know what the real part number for the connector to the exhaust valves for the 2025 z06 version are? need both male and female.
a person in a honda (with loads of extra stupid looking fiberglass) keeps picking on me, and keeps loosing rather badly. and i'm tired of it. not going to spend $600 ($460+shipping+tarrifs etc) on the one and only m2w thing with no reviews and just promises of no cel.
figure put it in neutral, flip the button then rev to say 4k. should scare the crap out of him.
lots of arduino's and similar things that are more than suitable for building one of these for about $50 in parts total plus programming time. being retired has its advantages
arduino already has pwm output, can emulate the pwm input with a software loop.
anyone taken apart one of the valve positioners? sealed in goo? would be much easier to test on the bench.
when i get it to work, will publish the code so others can have the fun too.
does anyone know what the real part number for the connector to the exhaust valves for the 2025 z06 version are? need both male and female.
a person in a honda (with loads of extra stupid looking fiberglass) keeps picking on me, and keeps loosing rather badly. and i'm tired of it. not going to spend $600 ($460+shipping+tarrifs etc) on the one and only m2w thing with no reviews and just promises of no cel.
figure put it in neutral, flip the button then rev to say 4k. should scare the crap out of him.
lots of arduino's and similar things that are more than suitable for building one of these for about $50 in parts total plus programming time. being retired has its advantages
arduino already has pwm output, can emulate the pwm input with a software loop.
anyone taken apart one of the valve positioners? sealed in goo? would be much easier to test on the bench.
when i get it to work, will publish the code so others can have the fun too.
If your goal is to be loud at a stop light, you can achieve that by having your engine sound set to either Sport or Track. And you can do that several ways. 1) set driver mode to Sport or Track, or 2) in MyMode or Z mode, set engine sound to Sport or Track.
At least for the SR, when engine sound is set to Sport or Track, the tailpipe exhaust flow control valves are open at idle and open most all other times. Pulling a fuse will not cause them to open any farther. Now, if the Z06 does not work the same, then..... However above in this thread @Stoopalini reviewed the description for the Z06 and said it looks like the same description.
For the SR, someone tried forcing the valves open all the time and the result was no better than just using the track setting for engine sound. I suppose results could vary with the Z06. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ld-2-wild.html
Last edited by Andybump; Apr 18, 2026 at 02:52 PM.
OK smart people, looking for some help here. I have a 2026 HTC Z06. I am wanting to install a wireless exhaust valve controller so I can control the valves being open or closed via one of the Homelink visor buttons. I did this very thing on my 2019 Z and it worked perfectly. I removed the one I made for my C7Z and want to reuse it on the 26Z. Fuse cover says that fuse 21 of the rear compartment fuse block (the one between the seats) is for the "Exhaust Valve Solenoid". This particular fuse is a micro3 fuse (2 fuses in one port). Looking at the fuse (see pic), the center terminal is common, the left terminal is Fuse 20 and the right terminal is Fuse 21....at least it is supposed to be. Removing the fuse reveals copper terminals for the center port and the left port (which would be Fuse 20), but no terminal for the right port (see pic). So there is no circuit for "Fuse 21". The valves do open and close when I change the setting on the infotainment center, so I know the there is a circuit somewhere controlling the valves. I guess the fuse cover and all the internet info is wrong about Fuse 21? What am I missing here? Thanks in advance!
Seriously what in the flip are you doing? Setup your z mode to have the exhaust volume set to track.
With one press of a button car is in loud mode.
End thread.
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does anyone know what the real part number for the connector to the exhaust valves for the 2025 z06 version are? need both male and female.
a person in a honda (with loads of extra stupid looking fiberglass) keeps picking on me, and keeps loosing rather badly. and i'm tired of it. not going to spend $600 ($460+shipping+tarrifs etc) on the one and only m2w thing with no reviews and just promises of no cel.
figure put it in neutral, flip the button then rev to say 4k. should scare the crap out of him.
lots of arduino's and similar things that are more than suitable for building one of these for about $50 in parts total plus programming time. being retired has its advantages
arduino already has pwm output, can emulate the pwm input with a software loop.
anyone taken apart one of the valve positioners? sealed in goo? would be much easier to test on the bench.
when i get it to work, will publish the code so others can have the fun too.
im not sure on the connector part number, but if you find it, please share.
I also like to dabble in microcontrollers, and have built some fairly advanced setups for other vehicles. Here’s a project I documented for my Wife’s Whipple charged Durango:
Spoofing the feedback signal for the AFM should be very easy to do. I’d think a teensy controller would be better than an Arduino though. Smaller, less heat, less power requirements, etc … faster cpu as well.
