Originally Posted by ZRacerLE

With all the great conversation above, have any fast guys confirmed the stock iron brakes are insufficient? I'm a time trial guy and really only drive 10/10s for one or two laps then slow it down, even in an HPDE. I just can't see CCBs giving me a noticeable lap time improvement for my style... or maybe my style is perfect for CCBs since I don't push it for very long???

Originally Posted by cars

What lap time on which track? The track is Florida Internationally Rally Motorsports and red car running low 1:13.2 and white one 1:15.1. The red car is the same car I let grassroot motorsports JG to test in their magazine in which he ran 1:12.99. J.G. Pasterjak has been driving competitively for more than 30 years. The car is capable of even faster but one don't always set PB every track outing. As far as CCB, my porsche friend with 2019 gt3rs is changing to Surface Transform which can be resurfaced. I looked at how beat up my AP brakes on Z06 and I can understand stock Z07 brake fading. I am sure there are tons of z06s in florida and can go run their z06 on 2R and run some 1:13 times for 20 minutes and see if it fade. I will be glad to meet you guys at track to test your own CCB but personally I will be driving my z06 on full ap there for any extended amount of time.
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Originally Posted by Aku700

LOL, I wonder, maybe this is why I never had rarely any fade issues, because my usual session is 1-2 warm up laps, depending on tire temps, but then I only run about 3-4 hot laps and thats it, i'm done and go back in. Makes me wonder by doing this, it allowed the brakes on my Porsche cars to never get over heated? I mean, when I park, i do have smoke some times coming out of the brake system. When I see guys doing like 10-20 laps, I scratch my head. And the funny part, have you ever noticed, sometimes you go out and you hit all the lines right away and stays that way for those 3-4 hot laps, but when you start out with bad lines, it just stays bad? LOL, then I go back in after like 2 hot laps and reset. But anyway, makes me wonder if this is so much better for the entire braking system?

Originally Posted by Poor-sha

My apology, I thought you were talking about VIR. I have no experience with that track.

I want to emphasize that I am a huge AP Racing fan. I’ve put their Radi-Cal kits on five of my cars that all saw track duty going back to 2015, including my very modified track only C7.

I'm just trying to determine the state of modern CCBs when it comes to track use, rather than relying on experience from older gen systems.

Originally Posted by RapidC84B

1:30 at RA isn't slow, but a Z07 should be a 1:25/1:26 car there. You all can do what you want, but I'll take GM's 24 hour torture test data as it's the only thing we have to really go on. For SERIOUS tracking at an advanced level carbons are silly money. The majority of folks who track don't really use the car. Look at all the "My C7 Z06 never overheats" posts... give it to the right driver at VIR in 100 degree weather and we'll cook it. RPM generates heat... when I pumped the redline in my C5Z race car to 7K from 6,600 I saw a 15 degree bump in temps across the board just from that 500 rpm.

If you're doing 3-4 weekends a year casually I'd wager the CCBs are perfectly fine, but I'd rather buy another C5 vs. a set of rotors every year, but that's just me.

I've tracked this Z06 at VIR 2 weekends now in advanced/instructor group OEM stock everything (fluid, pads, alignment, PS4S, seta) and doing 2:05s at 7/10ths. The front pads are close to done, rears are fine, rotors are fine. Pads cost $360ish an axle from GMPD, rotors $500 a corner. At this point, I have no desire to upgrade the brakes as I can get two full weekends out of the OEM pads and that's fine for how I'm using the car currently.

YMMV

Originally Posted by spearfish25

So I did four 30 minute sessions at Sebring. Pad thickness started at 0.320". When I got home, measured them at 0.300". So that's 32 sessions or 8 track days for me if I'm swapping pads at 1/2 life which is 0.160" remaining.

Originally Posted by mfain

A lot of the CCB opinions appear to be from folks not running them. I run them on two cars that I track and am convinced there is a performance advantage due to lower rotating mass and superior grip. Here are my C8Z pads and rotors after 4 full track days. Pads less than 1/2

Reference CCB heat management, I will post this photo again. This car, not a Corvette but with essentially the same brakes, is going on three years of HEAVY Global Time Attack use on the same rotors with no additional brake cooling. It set a GTA unlimited track record of 124.209 at Road Atlanta, FWIW.



Tracking a non-dedicated track car is a bit of a compromise. You need to decide whether your primary goal is performance or economics. The CCBs can be a little more expensive to operate, but the performance is hard to beat, especially on slicks where the stress on the brakes is greater. Just one opinion...

Originally Posted by cars

Isn't the record now in the 1:17 range now? Either way, I can't never or will even try to do 1:24 in any car. i will stick with local track at Sebring. I am interested in more CCB Z06 track times running 20+ minutes and see if they experienced fade. I am not sure driving in track sports mode cause alot more heat in the brakes causing fade for people driving in that mode.

Originally Posted by cars

I did notice even though ccb dust on track, the pads wear I can not visible see wear like iron/race pads. this is couple days on track.

Originally Posted by Mark2021C8

Also, don't forget there are electronic wear indicators that will alert you. These indicators are attached to the pads and will touch the rotors to electronically notify you. I pull my wheels off the car almost every track event to inspect anyway but these indicators are a back up as well.

Originally Posted by spearfish25

Someone had said that if you plan to preserve your CCB rotors, you should be swapping pads at about 50% remaining. The wear indicators won't be helpful with that approach.

Originally Posted by Mark2021C8

Yes I said!

Have you actually looked at the wear indicator as to when it triggers? I assume you have not actually replaced pads?

I have purchased 4 sets of pads already for the CCBs and watch my brakes like a hawk. Those indicators are a backup and when the electronic backup warning triggers could be enough of a warning but I have yet to let it get to that point before changing. I doubt most people have gone through 4 sets of CCB pads yet.

Originally Posted by Aku700

Why 50%. Why not 30, 35, etc? And by doing this, how long will rotors last? Paying 2-4K per tire is a doozy

Originally Posted by Mark2021C8

Because I am conservative. That is why some people may go to the wear sensor but I don't go to the wear sensor. My guess is, based on my experience, one is ok going to the wear sensor but I don't want to chance it as after most track days I am pulling wheels off to inspect rotors and pads anyway.

Originally Posted by Aku700

how many miles, session, track sessions u getting out of 50% wear? What pads you using and price?

Originally Posted by Mark2021C8

Because I am conservative. That is why some people may go to the wear sensor but I don't go to the wear sensor. My guess is, based on my experience, one is ok going to the wear sensor but I don't want to chance it as after most track days I am pulling wheels off to inspect rotors and pads anyway.

Originally Posted by Mark2021C8

One thing I can tell you as that my C8 Z06 with CCBs and C8 Z07 with CCBs appears to be cheaper in the long run to operate with regards to brake pads than my C8 Stingray.

I would go through a set of pads on my C8 Stingray in two track days (13000 track miles on that car so I went through alot of pads). The picture I showed you above with the wear indicator not even close to touching the rotors has 7 hard track days on them--pulled the wheels on that car two days ago to look at pads and rotors since I thought I would need to replace pads--not yet but probably will need to replace them after another one or two track days. All OEM pads for Stingray and Z06s. I was buying OEM pads for the Stingray from Rockauto at about $650 for fronts and backs while about $1700 for fronts and backs on the Z06s at GM. I also did try Carbotechs (much cheaper than OEMs at about $700 for front and rears without wear sensors) for the Z06 and Z07 but mostly used OEM but last year the OEMs were backorder nationally so I had no choice but to buy Carbotechs. These CCBs for the Z06 seem to hold up well.

Originally Posted by thebishman

IMHO, going to the Wear sensor is a great way to accelerate wear, (oxidation) on your expensive CCBs as way too much heat is being transferred to the rotor when the pads are worn that much.

Add in the fact that you could be getting tapering, or an inner pad that is potentially wearing faster than an outer pad, etc. and waiting to getting the Wear sensor warning is a recipe for (economic) disaster.

I always replaced the pads in my ‘15 Z07 when they were down to 1/3rd of original thickness, and used this same philosophy with my ‘18 AMG GTR. Despite loads of track time on each car, I never ruined a CCM/CCM rotor.