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How many pounds are added back in per wheel by changing CCB to steel rotors? I guess the swap to Girodisc larger steel rotor is the easiest using the CCB Caliper that comes with the CCB brake package instead of a swap back to stock Z06 steel and calipers?
Stock Z06 metal rotors are 9 lbs per corner heavier = 36 lbs total while Girodisc rotors are 29 lbs each in front vs 15.5 lbs for about a 50 lb increase. The metal rotors are much heavier.
A lot of the CCB opinions appear to be from folks not running them. I run them on two cars that I track and am convinced there is a performance advantage due to lower rotating mass and superior grip. Here are my C8Z pads and rotors after 4 full track days. Pads less than 1/2 used up and rotors look great. As an unrelated side note, notice the brown brake dust in the vent holes. I get the same dust on the wheels. This is not characteristic of the earlier pads on my ACR or C6 Z07.
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Do you run stock pads ? and if you change at 50% for track use, I take it , its ok to use the pads remaining 50% for street use ? Any intense burnish process to do like C7 CC or different ?
My apology, I thought you were talking about VIR. I have no experience with that track.
I want to emphasize that I am a huge AP Racing fan. I’ve put their Radi-Cal kits on five of my cars that all saw track duty going back to 2015, including my very modified track only C7.
I'm just trying to determine the state of modern CCBs when it comes to track use, rather than relying on experience from older gen systems.
I always listen when you talk, do you just buy stock pads for the CCB`s on the C8 Z06 ?
I got mine finally and will do 2 F1 SPA track days and 2 days on Nurburgring in august.... slap on a set of new pads and I should be good ? Car has got 7000 miles (had to buy used) now
I always listen when you talk, do you just buy stock pads for the CCB`s on the C8 Z06 ?
I got mine finally and will do 2 F1 SPA track days and 2 days on Nurburgring in august.... slap on a set of new pads and I should be good ? Car has got 7000 miles (had to buy used) now
tia
regards
Rune
Is there a Pagid RSC1 pad available for the C8 CCBs yet? If so, I’d check into them as they are more durable than the OEM with greater heat resistance and are known to be rotor friendly. At least this was my experience on the GTR. On the tracks you’re visiting a pad more road course oriented might be a good investment.
Caveat: I know nothing about whether an RSC1 exists for the C8 and if it does, how they perform on the C8 platform, but the RSC1 is highly thought of in the Porsche community.
Do you run stock pads ? and if you change at 50% for track use, I take it , its ok to use the pads remaining 50% for street use ? Any intense burnish process to do like C7 CC or different ?
tia
I run the stock GM pads. I just removed a set of pads at about 50% and they would certainly be usable for street driving. However, I have seen pads that start to "crumble" due to heat or otherwise have a rough, non-uniform surface. I would never put those back on for fear they might harm the rotor. The burnishing process is a little intense. Just follow the recommended GM procedure - it is worth the effort. There is a great deal of improvement in braking performance with properly burnished brakes.
Is there a way to see % of pad without removing the tire?
If you start the first track day with loads of pad material, you should be fine with a visual inspection and/or using the quick gauges noted above. A ‘Dental’ mirror with a good LED flashlight will help you ‘eyeball’ the inner pads also.
But tracking these cars is expensive so don’t forget to actually take the wheel off to inspect the pads if you have any concerns; especially at end of day.
I always purchased well in advance a second set of pads and had them with me at all times if I needed to switch at the track.
I have a 2011 Z06/Z07 (first year of Z07). Car has 16,000 miles, most of them from driving to and from tracks and on the tracks - mostly Autobahn Country Club and Road America. Have always used the CC brakes. They will stop a freight train all day long without fad. I mostly get two track days, and occasionally three, out of a set of pads. I change pads myself and they cost $800 - $900 for all four wheels. I use an app called camelcamelcamel to watch prices on Amazon. I don't buy pads from my dealer and I don't buy pads when I need them, I buy pads when the price drops to my target. Rotors have lasted 2 - 3 seasons (4-5 track days a year). It's about $4,000 - $5,000 to do all fours and the fronts go before the rears. On a waiting list for a C8 Z06/Z07 and I will happily do CCB again. Change pads while there is still some life left in them (this saves your rotors) and don't go out on track without burnishing them. If you do, you're in for a big surprise entering your first high speed corner.
what lap times are you running at Sebring? I just measured my ccb brake pads with half a day at FIRM and half a day at Sebring and it Is 0.293". they definitely wear slow but I believe pads don't handle high temp to protect the rotors which make fade easier. if you can get 8 track days, that is awesome.
Originally Posted by spearfish25
So I did four 30 minute sessions at Sebring. Pad thickness started at 0.320". When I got home, measured them at 0.300". So that's 32 sessions or 8 track days for me if I'm swapping pads at 1/2 life which is 0.160" remaining.
what lap times are you running at Sebring? I just measured my ccb brake pads with half a day at FIRM and half a day at Sebring and it Is 0.293". they definitely wear slow but I believe pads don't handle high temp to protect the rotors which make fade easier. if you can get 8 track days, that is awesome.
Traffic was rough. 2:27s because I’d get hung up a few times every lap. It probably didn’t change my brake wear much since my straight speeds were still 140s on the back, front and going into 7.
One addendum I don't think I saw in this tread, was when to know how to replace the CC rotors, which I have on my C7 GS. According to the manual you have to weigh them, which seems a pain to me because you have to take them off. In my case the brake tech never did this when they needed to be replaced-he just said they looked "worn", a pretty subjective criterion. I've seen other comments that you can measure their thickness a such a matter. There's another thread devoted to this with lots of opinions.
I am new to CCB and wonder if it is advantageous to rotate or flip brake pads after track days. I used to do this on my steel brakes to even out the wear on the pads - eliminate taper etc. . I don't want to do anything wrong with the CCB setup that will reduce the life of the CCB rotors.
I am new to CCB and wonder if it is advantageous to rotate or flip brake pads after track days. I used to do this on my steel brakes to even out the wear on the pads - eliminate taper etc. . I don't want to do anything wrong with the CCB setup that will reduce the life of the CCB rotors.
1: Watch for taper, especially on the inner pads;
2: get as much cooling to them as possible;
3: replace the pads when worn down 2/3rds;
4: replace the CCBs with an AP Racing Radi-Cal setup F & R if you’re a track *****, and put the CCBs back on prior to selling/trading.
I'll offer my opinion - again. I track my Z06/7 on slicks with CCBs. I have 2 other cars with CCBs.. One is a Viper ACR-E that I have tracked for almost 8 years, and still on the original rotors at 9600 miles. I religiously swap pads at 1/2 life to keep from taking a chance on damaging the rotors. Yes, the pads are a little expensive. I properly burnish the pads with each change - no short-cuts. I am also a fan of AP brakes, and have a set on another dedicated track car. But, the new, big APs for the C8Z are actually heavier than the factory CCBs. Iron rotors in CCB-equivalent diameters are off-the-chart heavy. Smaller rotors have less swept area and less mechanical leverage. The OP asked about tracking, not street driving so I will respond accordingly. When properly burnished I seriously doubt you will find another combination (short of REAL carbon-carbon brakes) that will out-brake them. You have to get used to them being a little "touchy" at slower speeds after they are well broken in, but not a problem. When you can get into ABS at high speed, it is the tires that are giving up - not the brakes. I would not swap to iron rotors unless I could find empirical data that supported them outperforming (stopping distance and fade resistance) the CCBs - at any price. This car went 3 years on the same rotors running Global Time Attach events with never a brake issue - and he's not easy on the brakes. JMHO
04-02-2024, 10:06 AM
