Tree sap
Good luck with yours.
T.

A safe solvent that does not contain any harmful components (heptanes or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents (Stoner™ Tarminator or New Car Prep – http;//www.autoint.com) that simply emulsifies and dissolves the bituminous asphalt / tar /grease when you spray it directly on the paint film surface It is important not to leave a solvent based chemical on the paint finish longer than is necessary. Simply apply to the affected area, allow sufficient dwell time, and carefully wipe off, you may have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of "dwell time" between applications. Wash and wipe the surface to remove the solvents (otherwise it will soften the clay and leave residue) and use detailer’s clay to remove ant grit / road dirt etc.
Other uses –it can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum based products, it's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork re-apply a protect rant after use it will dissolve chewing gum and adhesives. Use to de-tar wheel rims after cleaning, will also remove shoe scuffmarks from vinyl trim, and can be used to remove tree sap or fuel stains from paint surfaces.






Actual tree sap is different. You will find it in fewer but much thicker blobs on the paint. Real sap sticks to anything, no matter what sealer you use.
The products mentioned above will work well, but you will probably want to reapply your wax or sealant to the area after removing the sap.
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Who's the sap now...?
Tree Resin (Sap):
(Appears like a dark brown/ red coloured raised surface mark) some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.
A lot depends upon the type of sap, which is actually an acidic resin emitted from the tree, the resin deposits can be removed by- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a solvent, or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work or use detailer’s clay.
Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive refinishing. Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you.Tree sap that is still soft can be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (or Stoner’s Terminator) wet the area with the product and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel. For tree sap that has hardened, carefully scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside.
Apply Zaino’s ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once it’s removed re-apply sealant / wax protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection
Insect Honeydew- (sometimes mistaken for tree resin(Sap) is excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches Sticky residue should be removed as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat, remove as per tree sap
Notes:
a) Use caution if you use WD-40 for sap removal, as it contains hydrocarbon-based (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing).
b) Avoid using a QD sprays to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate.
c) Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated.
d) If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish, then apply a paint protection.








