Thoughts or Practices
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville Alabama
Thoughts or Practices
Using a pc I have applied Menzerna IP. I did not follow up with the FP as of yet. It's been two weeks since the IP. Should I wash or rinse the car first and then apply Menzerna FP or wash and reapply the IP? It would be nice to finish the car all in one setting however with the eteched spots it's taking more time. What do ya'll think?
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,559
Likes: 28
From: Amarillo TX
If you're satisfied with the level of defect removal, you can wash and go to FP and then wax/seal.
If you still have swirls, etching, etc. that you are unhappy with, wash and continue with IP until you're satisfied before moving to FP.
If you still have swirls, etching, etc. that you are unhappy with, wash and continue with IP until you're satisfied before moving to FP.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville Alabama
Another question
I'm not happy with my results. I have the orange CCS pad. At first I used Menzerna. It helped but not what I was expecting for the etched spots. I then moved to 3M's rubbing compound several several times. Much better improvement but still not there. I then moved backed with the IP. If I want to try and reduce the appearance farther should I use a more aggressive pad or a more aggressive compound?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth VA
You are not going to be able to get 100% of the defects out unless 100% of them were minor. Even 97% defect reduction takes pant loads of time with a PC, regardless of what product you choose.
To answer you original question, I would suggest quickly rewashing the vehicle and then picking up where you left off.
To answer you original question, I would suggest quickly rewashing the vehicle and then picking up where you left off.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 11
From: Lewes DE
Also - have you tried spritzing the surface with distilled water while you are polishing? this may give your MIP a little extra cut.
Try both of those before moving on.
regarding what to do next, You could do either. Doesn't matter. If you do not have a rotary machine to step up to, I would personally try the yellow CCS pad and stay with MIP - but start very low, like a setting of 3 (which you know will not accomplish anything), slowly increase your speed.
You may have a murky, cloudy or dull finish after a few passes with the yellow pad. So be sure to follow-up with the orange pad at 5.5 or 6, then your MFP II to get your full gloss back. Don't be upset if the finish looks "bad" after the yellow pad - it is expected. Knowing that this marring will occur, however, is a nice reason not to use the yellow pad unless you're really convinced the orange is getting you nowhere.
(and start looking into getting a Makita 9227, which would make this soooo much easier
)
Last edited by bugman; Jan 11, 2007 at 01:26 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,909
Likes: 4
From: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
Before you do this, have you gotten the PC speed up to 6? make sure you've used a speed of 6 for several passes of MIP before you get more aggressive.
Also - have you tried spritzing the surface with distilled water while you are polishing? this may give your MIP a little extra cut.
Try both of those before moving on.
regarding what to do next, You could do either. Doesn't matter. If you do not have a rotary machine to step up to, I would personally try the yellow CCS pad and stay with MIP - but start very low, like a setting of 3 (which you know will not accomplish anything), slowly increase your speed.
You may have a murky, cloudy or dull finish after a few passes with the yellow pad. So be sure to follow-up with the orange pad at 5.5 or 6, then your MFP II to get your full gloss back. Don't be upset if the finish looks "bad" after the yellow pad - it is expected. Knowing that this marring will occur, however, is a nice reason not to use the yellow pad unless you're really convinced the orange is getting you nowhere.
(and start looking into getting a Makita 9227, which would make this soooo much easier)
Also - have you tried spritzing the surface with distilled water while you are polishing? this may give your MIP a little extra cut.
Try both of those before moving on.
regarding what to do next, You could do either. Doesn't matter. If you do not have a rotary machine to step up to, I would personally try the yellow CCS pad and stay with MIP - but start very low, like a setting of 3 (which you know will not accomplish anything), slowly increase your speed.
You may have a murky, cloudy or dull finish after a few passes with the yellow pad. So be sure to follow-up with the orange pad at 5.5 or 6, then your MFP II to get your full gloss back. Don't be upset if the finish looks "bad" after the yellow pad - it is expected. Knowing that this marring will occur, however, is a nice reason not to use the yellow pad unless you're really convinced the orange is getting you nowhere.
(and start looking into getting a Makita 9227, which would make this soooo much easier
)
Some theoretical advice-
The abrading ability of any polish can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and / or pressure used, using it wet or dry and / or type of foam composition (different foam compositions and / or densities have a differing abrading ability) A foam pad / polish combination can only be as mild as its most aggressive component The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and / or speed of rotation or oscillation.
With experience; your product selection, type of foam pad, and the type of paint (soft / medium / hard) you're working on, you will be able to adjust your orbital speed settings accordingly.
