Question re using my ROB Buffer
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Question re using my ROB Buffer
Hi folks, this weekend i plan to clean and detail the Black 91 Vert, Original Paint. Paint is good for a 91, has a few swirls as you'd expect and i dont expect that my process will eliminate those, i just want to do the best job I can with the equipment and supplies i have.
here's my approach for the Paint:
Wash with Dawn
Claybar
Wash again
Mcguiars 3 step Clean, polish, carnuba wax
I have pretty basic 10" low speed buffer (the cheap kind)
i have several bonnets for it (1 terry cloth, 1 microfiber, 2 wool buffing bonnets)...i have no plans to invest in other polishers just now (though id like one eventually)
I have several of those round foam applicator pads as well for applying polish and wax by hand.
Question --- what should I apply/buff by hand vs apply/buff with the machine?
e.g should I 1) apply the polish with the MF bonnet/buffer and buff off by hand, or 2) apply by hand and buff withthe machine and wool bonnet...or 3) do I apply "and" buff with the machine?
same for the Carnuba wax (hard stuff in the Tin), i presume thats best applied by hand and buffed off with the RO Buffer.
thanks for the advice
here's my approach for the Paint:
Wash with Dawn
Claybar
Wash again
Mcguiars 3 step Clean, polish, carnuba wax
I have pretty basic 10" low speed buffer (the cheap kind)
i have several bonnets for it (1 terry cloth, 1 microfiber, 2 wool buffing bonnets)...i have no plans to invest in other polishers just now (though id like one eventually)
I have several of those round foam applicator pads as well for applying polish and wax by hand.
Question --- what should I apply/buff by hand vs apply/buff with the machine?
e.g should I 1) apply the polish with the MF bonnet/buffer and buff off by hand, or 2) apply by hand and buff withthe machine and wool bonnet...or 3) do I apply "and" buff with the machine?
same for the Carnuba wax (hard stuff in the Tin), i presume thats best applied by hand and buffed off with the RO Buffer.
thanks for the advice
Last edited by DaveT91; Apr 24, 2009 at 10:07 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 372
From: Philadelphia PA
If it were me, I would just leave the ROB you have on the shelf, until you get a PC or a Flex. And then when you do your 3-step, just use a different pad for each hand application. But that's just my opinion.
What you want to avoid is putting more swirls in the paint...so take care with your wash method. Use the 2 bucket method and wash top to bottom and use a different mitt when you get to the rockers and the lower portions of the vette.
Have fun...
What you want to avoid is putting more swirls in the paint...so take care with your wash method. Use the 2 bucket method and wash top to bottom and use a different mitt when you get to the rockers and the lower portions of the vette.
Have fun...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Canada
If it were me, I would just leave the ROB you have on the shelf, until you get a PC or a Flex. And then when you do your 3-step, just use a different pad for each hand application. But that's just my opinion.
What you want to avoid is putting more swirls in the paint...so take care with your wash method. Use the 2 bucket method and wash top to bottom and use a different mitt when you get to the rockers and the lower portions of the vette.
Have fun...
What you want to avoid is putting more swirls in the paint...so take care with your wash method. Use the 2 bucket method and wash top to bottom and use a different mitt when you get to the rockers and the lower portions of the vette.
Have fun...
ive done this all by hand in past years (vette and other cars) and just wondered if my results may be better by using the current ROB for any portion of the process. Plus take some of the time out of it. I bought some better aftermarket Bonnets for the cheap buffer to guard against more damage.
I thought that (in error?) that a slower basic ROB would be safer to use in my inexperienced hands, than the faster FLex type...I was obviously mistken here
Last edited by DaveT91; Apr 24, 2009 at 01:07 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 372
From: Philadelphia PA
Yeah, I mean the low speed buffer will just make your arm less tired and you'll be done a lot quicker, but that's about it.
That's what makes the PC so great, it doesn't generate a lot of heat, like your rotary will. So it's pretty user friendly for the people that are new to this sport.
Plus, I'm not sure that the Meg's 3-step has the capability of really cutting into the clear to level it.
That's what makes the PC so great, it doesn't generate a lot of heat, like your rotary will. So it's pretty user friendly for the people that are new to this sport.
Plus, I'm not sure that the Meg's 3-step has the capability of really cutting into the clear to level it.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 14,104
Likes: 244
From: South Florida
Wash --Clay ---Polish ---Protect
Leave Dawn at home, whenever using a paint cleanser or polish it will remove oxidation and old waxes and sealants anyhoo. I would not suggest those big buffers and bonnets. Not enough speed for polishing, these should really only be used for wax removal at best. Consider moving to a speed adjustible Random Orbital like PC, G100 or Flex as $$ allow. If you need help just ask !
Leave Dawn at home, whenever using a paint cleanser or polish it will remove oxidation and old waxes and sealants anyhoo. I would not suggest those big buffers and bonnets. Not enough speed for polishing, these should really only be used for wax removal at best. Consider moving to a speed adjustible Random Orbital like PC, G100 or Flex as $$ allow. If you need help just ask !
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Well, i got the Car finished yesterday, i used the Buffer just to remove some Wax (save time as suggested, but thats it).
I got pretty much Zero dirt out with the Clay Bar, paint was pretty clean (by comparison, i got quite a bit of dirt out of the paint on my Truck).
Turned out great, i spent about 5 hours yesterday on the exterior.
Time to start saving for a PC or a flex.
thanks for the Advice Guys.
I got pretty much Zero dirt out with the Clay Bar, paint was pretty clean (by comparison, i got quite a bit of dirt out of the paint on my Truck).
Turned out great, i spent about 5 hours yesterday on the exterior.
Time to start saving for a PC or a flex.
thanks for the Advice Guys.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Corona California
You don't need an expensive polisher unless your a professional! for 29 bucks you can get the Black & Decker 6" random orbital 4400 OPM very light weight too!. I got mine at Lowe's, used it with Meguiare's Ultimate Compound, and got 90% of the swirls & scratches out.
Last edited by Blew by you; Sep 22, 2010 at 09:12 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 170
From: Highlands Ranch CO
You don't need an expensive polisher unless your a professional! for 29 bucks you can get the Black & Decker 6" random orbital 4400 OPM very light weight too!. I got mine at Lowe's, used it with Meguiare's Ultimate Compound, and got 90% of the swirls & scratches out.
:p
pretty curious as to which one you got
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Corona California
Here's a link to the buffer:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-W.../dp/B000077CPT
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 170
From: Highlands Ranch CO
Do you want before and after pics of the car, i only have one, or do you want details of the Black & Decker orbital buffer?
Here's a link to the buffer:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-W.../dp/B000077CPT
Here's a link to the buffer:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-W.../dp/B000077CPT
just a before an after of the car
and thank you for the link...looks interesting