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My 1st PC7424 attempt - advice

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Old 11-27-2010, 10:13 AM
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FloridaGrandSport
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Default My 1st PC7424 attempt - advice

OK, I rec'd my PC from Autogeek (great deal during their sales), and just ordered some more stuff: Mequiar's clay kit, Wolfgang swirl remov/polish glaze, and Rejex. 1

1st practice will be on wife's car , silver IS 250. Here's my plan:

- Prep: Wash/Clay/Wash
- Correction: Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover w/White Pad (maybe move to Orange depending on results)
- Polish: Wolfang Finishing Glaze w/Blue Pad
- Sealer: Rejex w/Red pad and hand removal w/Micro

After this I'll try the CRM C6, probably start w/Orange pad as I believe the clearcoat is harder than the Lexus.

Final project will be my black Silverado SS - it needs lots of swirl and scratch removal, not deep just all over the place. I'll probably start with orange pad (maybe have to use Mequiars Sratchx 2.0 for bad spots?), then adjust the polishing pad depending on results.

Any comments from the experts? This is my 1st buffer experience and looking for tips and/or advice. Mike Phillips' DVD is great and I'll watch it again before I start. I chose the products from reading this and other detailing forums, and because Autogeek gets their stuff to me next day at great prices (plug for a great FL company )
Old 11-27-2010, 01:06 PM
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0Killrwheels@Autogeek
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thanks for the kudos ....

you will likely move to the orange pad and TSR the first time, but with good washing and drying techniques will likely only need FG with a light pad going forward. Your steps look valid indeed. Remember with Rejex to make light even coat and allow time to haze (cure) to paint before removal.
Old 11-28-2010, 08:54 AM
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FloridaGrandSport
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
thanks for the kudos ....

you will likely move to the orange pad and TSR the first time, but with good washing and drying techniques will likely only need FG with a light pad going forward. Your steps look valid indeed. Remember with Rejex to make light even coat and allow time to haze (cure) to paint before removal.
One more question: should I wait after the FG polish step to apply Rejex sealant? Or can I just do the Rejex right after?

Thanks
Old 11-28-2010, 09:51 AM
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0Killrwheels@Autogeek
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Originally Posted by FloridaGrandSport
One more question: should I wait after the FG polish step to apply Rejex sealant? Or can I just do the Rejex right after?

Thanks
FG is a final polish and you can top immediately as desired. I personally wipe down the finish with ONR, alcohol, or quick rewash. This was the finish is pristine for best curing of Rejex and of course the longest protection.
Old 11-28-2010, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FloridaGrandSport
Any comments from the experts? This is my 1st buffer experience and looking for tips and/or advice. Mike Phillips' DVD is great and I'll watch it again before I start. I chose the products from reading this and other detailing forums, and because Autogeek gets their stuff to me next day at great prices (plug for a great FL company )
My advice, on top of what you already have and know, is check your work section by section under a good light so that you only use as much product and pressure as needed to obtain the results you want. Some body panels will need only a light amount of work; others need much more.

Good luck!
Old 11-28-2010, 12:15 PM
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FloridaGrandSport
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
FG is a final polish and you can top immediately as desired. I personally wipe down the finish with ONR, alcohol, or quick rewash. This was the finish is pristine for best curing of Rejex and of course the longest protection.
Good tip - thanks!

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