~Stingray

Hey Guys,

I decided to try my hand in wet sanding and swirl removing. I need some advice.

First, I have been successful at removing some swirls on my daily driver and have been able to remove some fine scratches from a green scrubber that my sister used on my dad's car. However, I can not get them all out on either.

My daily driver still has them when in the sun, on my gf's car (which has never been detailed before and has heavy swirls) I can't even make a dent, and when I tried wet sanding, I can not seem to get all the scratches out. I looks good from a few feet, but as soon as the light hits it, you can see the marks reflecting.

I have tried several products...poorboys SSW 1-4, pinnacle XMT 2-4, MG. Ultimate compound, and MG. 105 and 205. I have a PC 7224 and use the speeds 4-5 to do the swirl removing. I go over quickly to make sure the compound it spread, then go slowly over the surface making small circles even though the PC is already dual action.

What am I doing wrong? I need some advice as I was under the impression that my technique is good based on the videos I have seen.

Also, all the directions and videos I have seen say to use a quarter amount of compound for a 2x2 area, but I feel this is not enough to really cover it, without it getting really thin.

All help is appreciated.

Thank you.

c6vetteinhouston

Try and use Menzerna Super Intensive Polish. Autogeek has it. On their web page it states:

"Menzerna Super Intensive Polish is designed for the removal of scratches, swirls, and oxidation on the scratch-resistant clear coats used by Mercedes Benz. Concentrated, specially milled abrasives remove 2000 grit sanding scratches to leave a brilliant shine with little or no hazing.

Note: Menzena Super Intensive Polish also goes by the part number Menzerna PO85RD 3.02 but it has been shortened to PO83 for simplicity by Menzerna USA, the US distribution office for Menzerna Polishes."

I have used this and this is probably one of the best polishers I have ever used. I have learned to really get rid of stubborn spots, I had to crank my PC 7424 up to speed 6. Instead of going back and forth with a steady movement, I slowed my pace down and it would not have surprise me if I spent a good 60 seconds, more or less in any particular area. I had no problems with the finish……Just my suggestion.

0David-Fermani

If you have 105, you do not need to waste your money on SIP.

Your problem is the speed. Use speed 6 to correct. Speed 4 and 5 is ok for wax application, not correction.

~Stingray

What about the thickness of the product? How much do I need to fix scratches? To me, common sense would say that a very thin layer won't get the results you are looking for. I could be wrong, hence my issues.

0David-Fermani

Thickness of what product? Can you explain?

~Stingray

Sorry, I was meaning the amount of the swirl removing product being used. Should I be using a think layer or a thin?

0David-Fermani

with 105 you may want to look up the Kevin Brown Method - you will find it on www.autopia.org

Basically prime the pad first, and I'd add 5 to 6 drops per 2x2, use pretty good pressure, move slow and you will level the paint just fine.

0EricAvalonKing

You definitely chose well. As others may have said already, starting slow and getting into it is the key. Prime the pad as well, pretty important. Another thing I would add, for best possible results, clay bar or use a clay mitt prior to buffing, makes a world of difference.

cmonkey713

And pad selection. Orange lake County to correct, White for final polish and Black or Red for sealer and/or wax application. If using a ceramic most products are not to be applied with a machine. Check the manufactures application recommendation.

CamarosRus

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...hind-term.html