Lees LS2

I'm looking for some of the best cleaning products and supplies for my black c6 exterior, what are you guys using etc?

REZ1

This is something that your going to get what each person finds best.
I personally use Zaino products, but you will get good results from most
Adams , and Maguire products.

Borntorun04/17

I have used Blackfire products from Autogeek.com on my 04 for years and now on my 17 GS with great results and easy to use.

bigcypress

vacuum cleaner and damp microfiber towel , seriously not kidding .

c6vetteinhouston

Just my 2 cents, These instructions are for using a buffer. If you are gong to apply by hand, I can send those instructions as well....But they are really not much different than these. I have had black corvettes, this method and results will blow your mind on crystal clear deep rich reflection and shine.

Zaino products go on very easy and come off very easy. These notes are for applying the initial application of Zaino’s and can be used for subsequent application of Z-2 and Z-5, and/or if used, Z-Clear Seal (Z-CS). Once the initial application has been applied, you would only need to just wash the vehicle with Blue Coral liquid car wash or any other brand that does not have car waxes or additive in it. This is a true car wash. You can buy from Wal Mart or at most auto stores.

Also, forgive me for this might be a bit long, or state what you already know. With these thoughts of mine, after years of using Zaino’s for almost 10 yrs, I have a pretty good idea as to what has worked best and saved the most on cost without having to sacrificing the ultimate goal, that is, to have the best shine you can get for your vehicle.

Buckets. First and probably one of the most important steps. Get two buckets, one for tires using a dedicated wash cloth for tires only and one bucket with a dedicated wash cloth for the vehicle. Do not use the same wash cloth for both. This will help eliminate spider webbing, cat like scratches, and other small imperfections. Also, while washing the body, do not let the cloth get into the wheel wells or underneath the vehicle or fall out of your hands and land on the ground. This will also help in reducing the chance of picking up the smallest of grit that causes the imperfection, spider webbing, and cat like scratches.

Wash your vehicle with Dawn Liquid Soap. The basic/original kind that is blue in color. You will use this product only on the initial detailing prep or any subsequent full detailing prep. Get the smallest bottle you can get. Me, I do not concern myself with how much I squirt in the bucket, I just squirt in a few ounces. I use a 5 gallon bucket, but a 1 gallon will do, and it would not surprise me if I squirted in about 2 - 3 oz’s more or less. I want to get the maximum use of the purpose of the soap. That is, to get off all the dirt, oil, old waxes and so on. Just a reminder, do not use any car washes/soap with additives such as waxes and so on. If it states anything like this, do not get it. After washing the vehicle, it goes without saying, dry the vehicle. I have learned to use “pool rinse” method. This has greatly helped in keeping imperfections from developing on my vehicle during the drying process.

Drying your vehicle. As you just read, I dry my vehicle using the “pool rinse” method. Not really required for initial prepping of the vehicle due to the clay barring process. However, you do want to do a quick wipe down though. Do not be too concerned about a super dry vehicle at this time because you will be following the clay bar process. However, for future and subsequent washing and drying you need to use the “pool rinse” method. View the link and you will see how to use this method, that is, if you do not already know what it is and/or how to use it. I use this method every time, but initial prep, I wash and dry my vehicle, the entire vehicle. I can assure you, it works.


As stated in the video, you want to follow this method, if you have one, by using a leaf blower. While you are using the leaf blower, blow off all the water remaining on the vehicle from using the “pool rinse” method. It is imperative to get the spout of the blower close to, but not touching your vehicle. You want to blow air into all the crevasses of the monograms affixed to the body, mirrors, door handles, gas door, headlights, tail lights, side running lights, body side molding, and so on. You will be amazed how much water is stored in these areas. You do not want the water to drip, drop, or to run down into your next steps, claying barring. After the use of the leaf blower, which will take a bit of time, the vehicle is dry, but not completely dried as needed. But it will be so dried, that you will need to just do a soft quick wipe down to finish drying the vehicle. I have learned that a 100% cotton towel works best. Using the “pool rinse” method, you will only use one towel to dry. If you do not have a leaf blower, you can still use only one large 100% cotton towel, but might need to follow-up with a second towel. If for whatever reason there might be a faint towel streak or so here and there, no need to worry about it for now, for initial prep. They will be removed when you move to the next step, prepping your vehicle. BUT, after initial prep, you will want to use the “pool rinse” method to help in reducing the imperfections.

Prep the Surface: Without a doubt, the most important part of the entire initial process. It involves two parts; clay barring and applying a compound type paint cleaner/polish (see Cleaning the Paint Surface, below). You would need to do the initial process at least once a year. Really, one time prep is good, but as with anything else, with passage of time, it fads. This initial process will take you about 5 hours maybe 6 depending on your pace. For me, I do this twice a year, due to the extreme Houston, TX heat, but that is just me. However, after the initial process, you will only need to apply the Zaino products when you want to. If you are going to use Z-CS, do not use Z-2. There is no need. Also, do not use Z-AIO. I did and it left a slight haze of marring, much to my surprise on my black jaguar.

Clay Barring using Z-18. You would want to wear some type of rubber gloves and if possible, place some type of an old towel or beach towel on the floor directly under the area you are claying. You do not what to drop the clay bar on the driveway. If so, throw it away and use a second one. By putting a large towel is to protect the clay bar if you accidently drop it. It can and will happen if you are not careful. See the link below. It really tells how to clay and it saves a lot of typing.


As you will see in the video, I do not do all that he explains. When he speaks of kneeing the clay, I dry the bar after each section I just finished. Then, I roll it up in a ball and flatten it out for use. As you saw in the video, you want to lubricate the area you are going to clay. However, it is very important to follow the instructions on keeping the area lubed. I use XMT Speed Clay Lube. To clay, you will want to do one section at a time in about a 2 ft x 2 ft section. Gently glide, with slight pressure, the clay bar over the surface. It should move like a hockey puck on ice. Glide the clay bar back and forth and left and right and circle as he did in the video. Glide the clay bar over the area for a good 45 seconds, more so or less, depending on the size of the surface area to clayed. You would want to glide the clay bar over the area in a somewhat steady motion, but not too fast or too slow, just a good steady pace. If you feel pull and drag more than just a small spot here and there, re-spray the surface. You do not want a heavy pull and drag. It will streak and mar you paint finish. After claying that area, dry off the clay bar with a dedicated towel for drying your clay bar. Then you will use a separate dedicated towel to wipe down the area you just clayed. You can use microfiber towel or a 100% cotton towel. I have found cotton towels work best. Now, you will want to check the area you just clayed. Do this by gently gliding your finger tips over the area and if it feels smooth without fine like bumps or grit of sand, move on to the next area. You will need about 3 towels for claying, 1 for dying the clay bar and 2 for drying the vehicle while claying. You will want a clean surface, but if there is a faint towel mark here and there, it will be removed during the polishing process.

If you wish to re-wash your vehicle, that is fine and follow the drying techniques as mention above. However, I do not re-wash my vehicle that is just me and never had a problem with my shine. After I finish claying, I do however, use my leaf blower to re-blow any water that may have gotten into the crevasses again while claying. Also, at this point, I am not too concern with any small streaking of dry marks or little bits residue. Mostly likely, if you used good 100% cotton towels, you will have very very little of this and now you should be ready for cleaning the paint surface.

Cleaning the Paint Surface: As part of cleaning the surface, you must, if you want to avoid staining your plastic and rubber parts, cover all of these areas with Blue Painters tape. Once finished applying the Blue Painters tapes, then you ready to apply the polish. I use Menzerna SIP 1500. It comes in a 16oz bottle and it is a great all purpose paint cleaner/polisher. This is great stuff to clean the surface of your vehicle and helps remove and eliminate the very fine cat like scratches and spider webbing. However, based on the severity of your clear coat, lots of spider webbing, cat like scratches, marring, holograms, I would go with another coat of the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish.

The pads I use come from Autogeek since I use a Portal Cable 7424 buffer:

http://www.autogeek.net/vcpad.html

I use the orange light cutting pad to apply the Meguiar’s or Menzerna and I use the white flat polishing pad to apply Z-5. When I did applied Z2, I would apply it by using the blue pad. Since I started using Z-CS, I found no need to use Z-2 anymore.

While applying the Menzerna ISP polish, just drip 4-5 drops, about the size of a dime on applicator pad. Pat the pad over the section, typically a 2ft x 2ft section before buffing. While buffing, I move the buffer over the area, back and forth, up and down achieving a good and uniform application for at least 45 second or so, and sometimes up to a minute. After applying the polish, you will then wipe off that area with a dedicated microfiber towel or a 100% cotton towel, cotton towels works best. If you have heavy spider webbing or scratches, you might need to go over the same area with a second application. While applying with the buffer, you need to press down on the buffer with slight pressure to make the polish do what it is designed to do, clean the surface. More importantly, that you know the buffer is spinning. You do this by applying a black line somewhere on the back side of the buffer using a sharpie. You will see the black line spin and when it is not spinning. As with each section, once you have completed that area, repeat the process until you have completed the entire vehicle. If it needs a second go over, repeat the process as mentioned.

Use of a pre-wax cleaner: If you do not have this, I would strongly suggest getting some and using this in preparation to apply Z-5 or if you are going to apply Z-CS alone. You will use this only after you have prepped the surface using the Menzerna ISP. I use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleaning Lotion. If you do not have any type of pre-wax cleaner, then you will need to wipe the surface of your vehicle using Z-6 detail spray. Now you are ready to apply Z-5 followed by Z-2, if used, and/or Z-CS, that is, if you are using Z-CS alone.

Applying Z5. Follow the same application techniques as you did when you applied the paint cleaner/polish. However, use only about 2-3 drops of Z-5 on the applicator pad. Once you have spotted the area with Z-5, sweep the buffer back and forth, up and down in a sweeping motion while pressing slightly down on the buffer over the area with the applicator. You will want overlapping of each passing to achieve a uniform application to that area. This should only take you about 15 seconds or so, per-section as you move the applicator pad over the area rapidly and overlapping. Repeat the process completing your entire vehicle. After you have completed your vehicle, take a break relax and cool down while the Z-5 is curing, should take a good 30 – 45 minutes or so. Take a dedicated microfiber towel or a 100% cotton towel to wipe off the Z-5. Microfiber towels work best for this process. I do not use the Zaino’s ZFX. See below for reasons. If you want to apply a second coat of Z-5, repeat Z-5 application process. This is, however, REQUIRED for initial application to apply a second application of Z-5, but not so much for subsequent applications. For me, I apply a coat of Z-5 probably once a month or so. When I do, I do not follow up with a coat of Z-2. In fact, I do not use Z-2 anymore. I use Z-CS. See Z-CS below for when I apply this product and how often.

After you have wiped off the first coat of Z-5, wipe down with one coat of Z-6. Then apply your second coat of Z-5. Again, a second coat of Z-5 is a must for your initial setup, but not so much for subsequent applications. And, I do not use the ZFX

Applying Z-2, if used. Follow the same application techniques you did when you applied the Z-5 and waiting time for curing. Just repeat the same application process you did for each section of Z-5, should take about 15-20 seconds per-section. When the entire vehicle has been completed and cured, remove the Z-2. You can use the same towel to wipe off Z-2 as you used to wiped off Z-5 if you want. It will not hurt the shine or have any impact on the finish results. After removing Z-2, follow it up by wiping it down with Z-6 using a dedicated towel for the Z-6. I would not apply a second coat of Z-2. I usually applied, when used, one coat of Z-2 every 6 weeks. When I did, I do not precede it with a coat of Z-5. You can if you want, I did not. And, I do not use the ZFX.

Z-Clear Seal: If you do not have this, I would suggest you get this. This will truly make the use of Z-2 obsolete. This is why I no longer use Z-2. Z-CS will take your shine to a whole new level of clarity with a deeper and richer optical depth shine. On the top surfaces of my vehicle, I hold the bottle about 10 inches from the top surfaces and spray a very light mist on the surface. I do this because I want more of the mist to cover more of the specific area to be wiped down. I mentally have 4 sections of the hood. I do one section at a time after spraying a mist on that section. Once sprayed, I spread it by using a blue microfiber applicator, (the kind you can buy from Wal-Mart with the slit on the back for better control). I slowly and gently wipe that area over and over and over slowly back and forth with overlapping passing in that area I am working. My method is like I am caressing that area with the pad, gently and slowly with overlapping passes. If you see a faint rainbow color, no problem, just follow up with a wipe down of Z-6. However, if you use a light mist, you more than likely will not have this rainbow affect. When wiping the Z-CS on to my vehicle, I want to make sure I have a complete and uniform application before I move on to the next section. That means it would not surprise me if I spent at least 45 seconds to a minute in any given section. Sides of the vehicle, I hold the bottle about 6 inches or less to spray on the sides. Again, I mentally break up the sides in sections. I spray a light mist into that section and again wipe that area over and over and over slowly back and forth with overlapping passing. As mentioned, I want to make sure I have a complete and uniform application of the Z-CS before I move on to the next section. On the rear and back of the vehicle, I mentally break up these sections and repeat the process until I have completed the entire vehicle. To me, the most important step when applying Z-CS is to apply it with a slow steady overlapping method achieving a uniform and consistent application. Once I am finished, I let it stand for about 4-6 hours to cure. Do not follow up with any type of detail spray at this time. You must let it cure. That is to include the faint rainbow look. Even though it dries in about 30 minutes, but to cure and bond to the paint, you really need to let it cure for a good 4-6 hours. More so on the 5 – 6 hour timeframe depending on the outside temperatures. I apply additional coats of Z-CS probably once every 6 weeks or so after initial application. That is just me.

Once you have completed the Z-5 application and you have added a coat of Z-CS Clear Seal, once cured, I then apply a Top coat of Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax. You will be amazed on how this makes the finish “POP”….with shine. Usually, I apply this the next day, but depending on how I feel and if time, daylight allows, I will apply it the same day. Mostly I will apply the next day. Usually on Sundays, meaning I did the bulk of the detailing on Saturday.

Subsequent application. Do not use Z-AIO as I stated above, unless you want to. You really do not need this product. However, if used, it will remove any and all applied applications of products. To me, it was a waste of money and did not give me any greater shine. It added more work. So, I do not use this or recommend usage.

Tip on the Z-6 to help on cost. You will need a bottle or two of this product. What I have done, I bought two 16oz spray bottles from Wal-Mart. I have taken my Z-6 and cut it with water. I poured 8oz of the Z-6 in separate spray bottle. You should have about 8oz left in the original Z-6 bottle and 8oz in the spray bottle. I then, take a measuring cup and fill that up with about 5oz of water and pour it into one of the bottles with the 8oz of Z-6, shake it up to mix and set it aside. Repeat until the other bottle has been filled. Believe me; it makes these two bottles of Z-6 last a long time and you will not have the need to re-order any Z-6 as often as they want you to. Trust me, I never had a problem with the shine using the Z-6 with this method and have save a lot of money.

Also, buy a small 2oz spray bottle. Two is better, having one for a backup. These 2oz bottles can be bought at Wal Mart. Typically; you can find them in the health care section, in the travel size products area in most stores. Fill one of them up with Z-6. Use this small bottle when you applying Z-6 to your vehicle. It makes handling them easy and you do not have to struggle with trying to hold the big bottle. You will use this product lightly, spraying more so a mist over a 2ft x 2ft section. Wipe off using a dedicated microfiber towel or 100% cotton towel, microfiber towel works best. By the time you are finished with your vehicle, you should have used only about 1oz more or less.

For your weekly maintenance, I wipe down with Z-6 or a Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax. I have used Z-8, but after several side by side tests between Z-6 and Z-8, I got a greater shine with Z-6. Therefore, I no longer use Z-8. I now finish my weekly detail with a good wipe down of pinnacle liquid souveran spray wax. The Z-6 brings cleans the surface and brings out the existing shine, but this liquid spray wax,,,,man,,,it took the existing shine and enhanced it to a new level. I would suggest on getting a bottle of this and use in as part of your weekly maintenance.

Z-8: I do not use this anymore. Reason being is I found that I get a greater shine using only Z-6 on my burgundy color 2005 vette. However, others folks have stated differently. You will just have to decide which works best for you.

ZFX: I have used the ZFX product. What I found when I did use it, it did not speed up any drying time at all, nor did it make any difference if I did or did not use it when I applied second applications of Z-5 or Z-2. To me, I found it is a waste of money. I know what it states about more than one application of Z-2 or Z-5 within a 24 hour period, but I have never had a problem with applying two coats of Z-5, and then followed by one coat of Z-2, when I used Z-2 in 24-hour period. Simple enough read the label on the drying time. And, I never got any more of a greater shine, either. It is important to let the Z-5 and Z-2, if used, to dry for at least 30 - 45 minutes. You will not use ZFX with Z-CS. It really takes about 30 minutes or so with or without ZFX. I have not used ZFX in years and I will put my vehicle up against anyone else that has or uses ZFX.

Z7, if ordered, or came with your order, I would use up what you have and not buy any more. I use Corel Blue car wash from Wal Mart. It is a true car wash and it does not have any additives, such as waxes, and so on.

RyanC7

I have a black c7 and have spent close to $500 on products so far and a DA polisher is a must. I love learning new things I can do myself, and everything you buy can be used on all of your cars. You could pay a pro for paint correction of swirls and then do a good sealant and wax or try the $$$$ ceramics and then maintain it from there. Like with everything else Corvette related...all comes down to $$$$$$$$$