How do you do a 3 step paint correction and what supplies are needed?

 

Most cars don't need a 2 let alone a 3 step process. I would start watching youtube videos from Adams Polishes and also Apex Detail. This is where I started before even deciding to buy polishers, pads, etc. Once you buy the stuff practice on some other panels before doing your car. Just remember that prep is everything.

 

I would recommend a Porter Cable random orbital polisher with Meguairs microfiber cutting pad and an orange pad. If it’s not too bad I would go with Meguairs ultimate compound with the cutting pad and follow it up with the orange pad. For me the orange pad gets rid of holograms and marks left behind with the cutting pad.

Here is what I have been able to accomplish with this setup.

 

Is there someone that offers a 3 stage? I am not sure what that would even be

 

Ok, yes I did a three stage correction. I have to say I am impressed with what Jasonamara did that is amazing work with a PC, but I do see some issues in the final finish, but keep in mind it is a professional view that 99% of the people in the world would not spot.. I agree with him using the Meguiars Microfiber Cutting Pad DMC-6, it is THE best cutting pad I have ever used.
With the DMC-6 I liked Jescar Cutting Compound a bit better, but it is a personal choice. I have tried the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it does do an incredible job, so he did not go wrong using it, so as I said it is a personal choice. The Meguiars is a bit more forgiving, IMO so it is a good choice. Jescar requires a bit more technique to produce better results, Again what Jasonamara did was absolutely amazing.
If you are wanting to do it yourself I would recommend at least four DNC-6 pads as any compound will load up a single pad to the point where at the end it is rendered a bit useless and create a bit of a mess. In my shop I would use a pad for every panel unless two were very small. If you have access to a compressor periodically blow out the pad to get rid of the dried compound.
Then I would use Rupes Yellow Foam Pads again 4 or more pads with medium pressure to remove the DMC-6 swirl marks, He used an Orange Pad but each brand has different classification of their pads so it would be good if he told us what brand.
Then to get the ultimate finish. the third round and darlinks using Jescar Compound with 4+ Rupes White Polishing Foam Pad, or another brands final polishing pad and very light pressure. Polishing foam pads like Rupes Yellow or the orange pad will leave behind very, very tiny swirls which I do see in Jasonarama's pics.
For the absolute perfect finish I used a white foam pad and Zaino's Z-PC, or other diminishing compound to get a jeweled finish, meaning the paint is perfectly free of micro scratches and has maximum shine.

 

You are correct, that pic was taken before the orange pad was used (chemical guys). Also I should note that car is enamel and not cc/bc. This poor car was so abused.

 

The 3rd step is usually just "jeweling". A final polishing step using soft pads and mild finishing polish. My C5Z was originally 3-stepped. Now, once per year I just do the 3rd step after bringing her out of storage to freshen her up for a fresh coat of sealant and wax.

Grzldvt1's recommendations were right on point, as always. When I do a 3-step, my pads and liquids used vary depending on the type of paint and the condition of it, but it usually looks something like this:

Step 1 - Cutting step using Meguiar's microfiber cutting disks (or Lake Country or Buff & Shine Uro-Fiber if mild defects) and compound
Step 2 - Polishing step using Lake Country microfiber polishing disks or CCS green polishing pads and polish
Step 3 - Jeweling step using Rupes Ultra-Fine white foam pads or Lake Country CCS black foam pads and CarPro Essence (if applying a coating) or Finish Kare Foam Pad Glaze (if applying a wax or sealant)

 

Excellent!!!

 

Okay, hold the bus! You got those results with a PC orbital? Orange cut and then a microfiber? Are you going to tell me it took only 30 minutes??

You are the f'in man if those results are for reals.

 

So basically what I do before a show to freshen up finish is the 3rd step? I have been 3 stepping for years I guess

 

Any votes for Extreme Solution LV 403 Foam Pad Finishing Glaze !!!!!!!!!

 

"Gman",
Clear your head...you only need what you need to get the results you want. Detailing products are making big advances, so old school approach is just that.
Marketing from all these different suppliers is very confusing to the layman imo.

I've been detailing for personal satisfaction for years and still get frustrated at times. There are guys here that walk on water; they are that talented. My latest project is my 93 barn find that has been literally in a barn for 21 years. The finish is the worst I've ever attempted. The pitting in the clear and scratches just suck. I've done the top, one side and just finished the hood. No easy way about it; long hours and multiple steps plus I'm pretty hard on myself results wise.

I can't imagine your finish is anything more than spider webbing from washes and lack of care. I'd start with a good all in one product and a stiff pad. Do you have any equipment? Trial and error see what you can do with a basic approach. Can you post any pics? And it really depends on the results you want.




Side of hood before. Dull and scratched. Top surfaces are 2x worst.

Mid way. Note swirl marks.

Deionize, clay, two passes. Still cloudy.

Finished. Three gradual steps...

Ceramic coat. It could be better but it's 30 years old!

Still not completely satisfied. I think c4 paint is really hard. Not like the **** today due to government epa

 

That’s coming along nicely. The amount of time that goes into doing it right is pretty insane and I quickly understood why the quotes were so high after I did the job myself. It took me a total of 22 hours to do my car start to finish. Started Friday night and was done mid day Sunday. Second car I did my brother in law helped since it was his car, I did 80% he did 20% and it still took 14 hours. The satisfaction after you’re done and it looks good makes you feel a way that’s hard to describe. Im very glad I did it myself and didn’t pay someone and I absolutely SUCK when it comes to most DIY stuff. The super hard paint on the corvettes made it less likely to make a mistake, but also made it take longer to get some of the scratches out.

 

Slow, We both appreciate the effort required to take a car from sad to glad. I have a compulsion, border line obsession.

So, what can you tell me about the paint hardness? I agree, I've used a wool pad and an aggressive correction polish to get me back to a quality surface. Even that was a task.

I've got what looks like very slight acid rain etching remaining. An experienced detailer will pick up on it but it looks awesome from 6 inches out.

 

I've been using Glare polish for about 15 years now and still satisfied with the results. It may not be the best but I only use it once a year on my daily driver.

 

My C6 paint was in pretty good shape overall but it didn’t have pop. In the pictures when it was at the dealer it almost looked matte. I only had adams cutting pads and polishing pads, thank for there was a local detailing shop 10 minutes from my in-laws where I did the car. Had to buy the urofiber 50/50 pads and even those barely touched it. I have the adams swirl killer (15 and 12mm) I think a better polisher would have helped. I went to start messing around with wool soon too!