Buffer/Polishing Question
The factory paint on the Vette is very orange pealed, (GM's paint process really needs to get with the times but that's another story) when I go to buff out my surface scratches am I going to create flat spots in the paint? If so I may be spending longer than I thought I would as I'll then need to level the entire paint job on the car. My question, has anyone else run into a minor scratch touchup only to find they then needed to redo the entire car to make it uniform? Thanks in advance for any feedback! Terry
The factory paint on the Vette is very orange pealed, (GM's paint process really needs to get with the times but that's another story) when I go to buff out my surface scratches am I going to create flat spots in the paint? If so I may be spending longer than I thought I would as I'll then need to level the entire paint job on the car. My question, has anyone else run into a minor scratch touchup only to find they then needed to redo the entire car to make it uniform? Thanks in advance for any feedback! Terry
Thanks for the reply but claybars are only good for surface contaminants such as tar, bugs, water spots and so on. It's a misconception that is does anything for paint scratches or swirl marks. Terry


Swirl marks and light scratches are hard to get out especially on a Corvette, there clearcoat is the thinnest and most fragile in the business. Note - Z5 does not get swirl marks out that well I can assure you. I do everything by hand but using a orbital buffer is fine.
One of the tricks of the trade is never use a circular motion except when using the 3M swirl mark remover. Always go front to back or vice versa when washing, drying, applying wax/polish, removing wax/polish. I also only use Fieldcrest Charisma towels (100% made in the USA cotton) to dry the paint and I only use 3M or Griot's microfiber towels for removing wax or polish (99,000 count at least) The towels and applicators etc. you use on the paint is very crucial in all aspects of a swirl free deep shine as well as paint prep.
For light colored cars use 3M #39109
For dark cars use 3M #39009
Wash your car with Dawn and while it is wet, give it a claying (I can give you tips on claying if need be) After you complete claying, wash the car again then dry it with a Fieldcrest or similar towel then For the 3M SMR use a round cotton terry cloth applicator. Do only 2' x 2' sections using a firm circular motion and when the SMR starts to dry just a tad, turn the applicator over to finalize the buffing. When you use this product, you are continually rubbing in a circular motion until is just disappears. This product is very oily and of course you had better use this on a very clean and cool surface. Regardless of what wax you use, this product will remove all and any wax. Since the SMR is very oily, I did a quick buff with a microfiber towel just to make sure I did not miss any. It is recommended to wash and dry the car again. After you finish, put a nice wax back on the paint and the wax will be the easiest on-off you have ever experienced because I believe the paint was cleaner than ever before. Make sure your paint is extremely cool when doing any type of cleaning.
As stated earlier, if you try to do away with the orange peel on a Vette, you are opening us a very ugly can of worms :cheers:
good luck
I know exactly what you are talking about with the Zaino. I tried Zaino on black and Dark Blue and was never happy. I switched to a product called KLASSE and have been much happier with the results. It is an acrylic like Zaino but seems to me to hold up better. There are two products All-In-One (AIO) and Sealant Glaze (SG). I also have a black vette and love this stuff. My process is to use 3M Finesse-IT(Little bit stronger than Swirl mark remover) with my Porter Cable RO polisher using a polishing foam pad. This will take care of the swirls. SMR mostly just fills them in but wears away, Finesse-It will do better at removing them. After this I use the AIO with a different polishing pad on my Porter Cable. After this the finish will look great and be protected for a few months. I then put on a few coats of the SG by hand. SG is similar to z2, you have to wait between coats for several hours. After 3 coats of SG the finish is deep and smooth. If you want you can also add wax over the top of the SG but is really not needed. I also make an instant detailer with 2-3 cap fulls of the SG in a 20 oz spray bottle mixed with water and that helps keep the finsh longer.











