I have a black C5 and I was trying to get a couple of long scratches off the rear deck. I tried using #83 with a foam pad and DAP. I was able to get some of the scratch out after doing it several times. It looked OK but when I took it out in the sun today the panel has a hazy look to it with millions of small light scratches. I tried using the number 9 but it is still not perfectly clear. What am I doing wrong. I was only able to use the #83 for about a minute before it started drying so I had to wipe it off. I'm thinking I did not let the abrasives break down enough but it dried really fast. I was using the 5 setting with a good amount of pressure. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Several things comes to mind. You could have applied too much pressure while removing, and/or did not allow enough time to completely dry. Not all products will completely remove scratches. I have a black 2000 coupe and had spider webs, small scratches and so on. I preped my vehicle with 3M Swirl Mark Remover using a buffer. After I removed it, I washed the vehicle with dawn liquid soap. Dried it completely. Waited about three hours to make sure all it was competely dried. Then, I applied one coat of Zaino' Z5. Removed it...applied another coat of Z5, both with ZFX. It make the optical look that all scratches were gone. However, on frist looks, the vehicle looked great and only I know where the scratches were. Anyway, that is my $24. 68 worth of opinion.

 

The first thing that comes to my mind is that you aren't working it in enough. The first time I used the #83 DACP, I had the same problem -- the paint looked worse :shocked: --. I then tried it again, and gave the DACP more time to break down, and found that a couple extra swipes with the PC made a huge difference.

Be careful with the frequency of use with the #83 as it is abrasive and does have the potential to work it's way through the clearcoat.

Best of luck.

 

well dacp really doesnt need to be worked until dry you can wipe it when its wet just work it in for about 30-40 seconds if you get micromarring then try following it up with either the SFP 82 or you could try the No9 SMR

 

The trick I have found when dealing with a black chevrolet is that 83 is a good first step. But it is crutial to follow it with 80 at 4 speed. This will really make a difference in eliminating those fine swirls and giving you that perfect finish. Because of how dense chevrolets paint is on a black car you are going to get fine swirls or scratches. I think of it like this, use 83 to get the big ones and 80 to get the small ones. Then follow up with a couple coats of your favorite wax. Also I have found that 80 works well every once and a while to maintain that perfect finish. Not to abrasive but it gets the job done.

 

That is 100% correct. If you do get micromarring from #83...#82, #9 or #80 when used with a PC at speed 5 will remove it for sure.

Personally I have never had a problem with #83 micromarring when used with a PC and a Meg's 8006 (yellow) pad and I have used that combo on every paint color and type imaginable. To trouble shoot your problem I would go through these steps:

1) Make sure the surface to be buffed is ABSOLUTELY 100% clean. When you wash your car and then pull it into your garage a good step to do to make sure it is squeaky clean is to go over the entire vehicle with the quick detailer product of your choice (I prefer Meg's #34).

2) Make sure your PC pad is also 100% clean. Any particle that becomes lodged in that foam will tear the livin' poo out of your paint. I will take a stiff nylon toothbrush and run my PC at a low speed applying the brush to the pad from the center outward. This does a great job of dislodging any grit that may have become lodged in the pad. I will also give the pad a squirt of #34 before I apply product to it.

3) As others have said too much pressure is not a good thing. For your first couple passes with the PC apply about 5 foot pounds of pressure. When you apply pressure to the PC and hear the motor just begin to bog that is the maximum pressure your should apply. After a few passes at that speed relax your pressure and let the PC do the work. Slow and steady movements with each pass.

#83 DACP is a GREAT paint correction product. I use it for any vehicle (especially dark colors) that I know #82 or #80 will not buff to my expectations. If worked correctly you can go right to the last step product of your choice. Just remember that SLOW and STEADY passes are needed to properly break down that product.

Take care and feel free to PM me if you need any more assistance!

Michael

 

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~

I agree: Megs DACP contains diminishing abrasives,(i.e. the bigger the abrasive the more imperfections it will remove)
I found that after a while if you wipe the surface for inspection and there are still surface marks re-apply fresh product (i.e. with bigger abrasives in it) and then re-inspect if it is 95% clear wipe off and apply #62 or #9

~ Hope this helps ~

Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

 

sounds like you didn't work it in long enough, you have some good advice in this threa

 

Thanks for everyones suggestions. I will try #83 again and then follow it with some #82 that I ordered a few days ago.