Shock absorber question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,789
Likes: 894
From: Northern Illinois
Oldtimer
Shock absorber question
My car has the F45 suspension and I'm considering changing to different shocks. What type of shocks should I be looking at for straight line performance? I only have 21,000 miles on my car, which creates another question. Does age have a negative affect on shocks? Am I better off staying with the stock shocks?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,172
Likes: 11
From: somers, ny
For drag racing you're probably better off with worn out shocks as long as you're not getting wheel hop. If you are going to buy new shocks, consider adjustables. then you can tune for the track and for the street or road course or for autocross if so desired.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 32,545
Likes: 2
From: Lithia FL
Cruise-In II & IV Veteran
CI VI Drag Champ!
Yup worn shock work better.
If you are going to do it a lot and visit various tracks you can consider adjustable shocks which would be best of all worlds but pricey
If you are going to do it a lot and visit various tracks you can consider adjustable shocks which would be best of all worlds but pricey
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 214
Likes: 10
From: Leroy Ohio
I removed my F45 set up late this summer. I just went with Bilsteins but would suggest the QA1 adjustables.
FYI the trick to removing the RTD from the computer system is finding someone with a GM Tech II programming unit to remove the option and disconnecting both cables from the module in the left rear hatch area and then cycling the battery. I read a lot of threads discussing how to do this but cooudn't get it turned off until cycled the power with the cable disconnected. You don't need simulators and I even removed the switch because I happen to have another panel without it.
FYI the trick to removing the RTD from the computer system is finding someone with a GM Tech II programming unit to remove the option and disconnecting both cables from the module in the left rear hatch area and then cycling the battery. I read a lot of threads discussing how to do this but cooudn't get it turned off until cycled the power with the cable disconnected. You don't need simulators and I even removed the switch because I happen to have another panel without it.
