When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think that DEEP staging def has advantages being that the roll-out is so long with the stock front tires. My best rt seems to be when I deep stage. Anyone have good r/t shallow staging? I noticed that I lose .2 off my ET though every time I deep stage. Makes it difficult to dial.
From: 10.70 @ 124mph, Stock Bottom End @ 3620lbs, ECS Racing Team Member. The 1st NMCA LSX Index Rumble World Champion. 2011,12,13 Champion
Are you looking to better your reaction times or have a low ET. If you are a bracket racer then you need to have the R/T low. Most people that deep stage need too so they will have a low R/T. Many people deep stage to cut a light.
yes, for bracket racing.. I have cut lights like, .045, .063, but I'm cutting .007, .009, .012 when I deep stage. I dont' know if its me, maybe I'm bad at cutting lights shallow or reg staging or maybe its the roll out from the big tires.
yes, for bracket racing.. I have cut lights like, .045, .063, but I'm cutting .007, .009, .012 when I deep stage. I dont' know if its me, maybe I'm bad at cutting lights shallow or reg staging or maybe its the roll out from the big tires.
With the new LED lights you have to react quicker then when they had the old bulbs.The LED lights are on then off.The old bulbs would be like a fade on to full on then fade out type thing.Do you kind of get the idea?If your not worried about what your car runs and you just want to cut a good light then deep stage................Paul
yes, for bracket racing.. I have cut lights like, .045, .063, but I'm cutting .007, .009, .012 when I deep stage. I dont' know if its me, maybe I'm bad at cutting lights shallow or reg staging or maybe its the roll out from the big tires.
It seems like that is the latest "FAD" at E Town.. to take Rob out in Round #1... he usually takes the new escape road right through the sand at the end of the track...
After our last race (he lost 1st round 3 weeks in a row) I thought he was gonna eat his Glock Sooo I'll avoid running Rob next race..
Not to worry he will be back with a VENGEANCE! Don't count him out...
I think that DEEP staging def has advantages being that the roll-out is so long with the stock front tires. My best rt seems to be when I deep stage. Anyone have good r/t shallow staging? I noticed that I lose .2 off my ET though every time I deep stage. Makes it difficult to dial.
In the 1st diagram (I suck at the IntraWeb..... ), a car is staged with both-bulbs lit, and the bold Red line illustrates how-far the car must move before stopping the RT-clocks, but in the deep-staged diagram, you see this distance is much-less:
'assuming' everything-else remains constant (i.e. ~ the driver reacts the exact same, the car reacts the same, traction remains the same, etc. ) a car that is deep-staged will 'clear' the stage-beam first, because it is slightly-closer to it (think of a golfer, teeing-off from the Ladies tee ).
You are losing E.T. when you deep-stage because that bold Red line also shows how-much momentum, or a 'rolling-start' the car with both-bulbs lit has before he starts the E.T. clocks:
a few years ago on another Forum, a racer ran a simulation (which I'm not sure I agree with his findings, but it gives you an idea..... ) in-which his 10-second car was already traveling 5 MPH when he 'cleared' the stage-beam leaving with both-bulbs lit, but just 1 MPH if he deep-staged.
If you compare your time-slips between 'regular' runs and deep-staged runs, you'll see that most of your lost-E.T. is closest to the starting-line (60', 330', etc. ), while your 1000'-1320' incrementals remain almost the same, because by 1000', your car won't vary much from run-to-run if it is well sorted-out.
thank you, that was very helpful and I really appreciate the response. Next time i race, which may presumably be tomorrow, I will let you know my results. I did notice the mph was lost mostly in my 660' but I did lose .2 and 3 mph on top.
and to answer the other question, the point I leave is bottom yellow.
Next time i race, which may presumably be tomorrow, I will let you know my results. I did notice the mph was lost mostly in my 660' but I did lose .2 and 3 mph on top.
The key to deep-staging is DON'T change anything-else about how you launch the car (i.e. ~ launch RPM, tire PSI, point-on-the-tree, etc. ), and let the placement of the car do the work for you:
many racers, who attempt deep-staging for the first-time, think "I have-to back-off the tree, or else I'll go-Red" , which isn't necessarily-so, and defeats the purpose of going-deep in-itself.
If you are consistently Red (emphasis on consistently ), then you can back-off the converter/lower the launch RPM, lower the front PSI (increases rolling-resistence ), etc., which should make the car react slightly slower to your impulse (smacking the skinny-pedal ), but if YOU aren't physically consistent, we are just tinkling in the wind.....
Losing 2-tenths isn't uncommon, as my Z28 went from 13-teens to 13.30s in back-to-back testing, but I don't recall losing much, if-any, MPH.....