Bracket racing with nitrous
06-06-2008, 03:52 AM
#21
Safety Car
Here are my Nitrous win's last year .
www.mauiscuba.net/carpics/trophies.gif
I use a K-mart $20.00 outside temp and humidity gauge that I tape to the bottle.
I use 3 bottles ,I take the top off each one in qualifying.Sure it is work but if you want to win you have to work for it.I also use a presure regulator from checker that you can turn up or down the fuel presure in 1/2 lb incorments.I usually go from 6 to 8 lbs according to weather, I want to slow the car or speed it up.Higher number slower the car runs about one .10,I also keep the bottle at around 90 degrees or 950 psi.I have ice in my cooler with my drinks and I freez bottles of water before I go to the track so duel use
When the bottle gets to cold you have to pull off the ice before it hits 90 or it will drop another 4 degrees after I remove the ice that I have wraped in a towel.
You must have a purge!!.If the presure is to high at the line, I hit the button until I get it down to where I want it.
You need to launch with nitrous to be consistant.You have to pick how you are going to run your race.My buddy uses his nitrous off the line and he has no power at the big end.I have a nos timer on mine and bring on the nitrous 3 seconds down the track ,my mile per hour is real high so I win my race at the big end not at the start.You do have to be good at the lights.I use the plug in 120 volt and 12 volt bottle warmer that I plug into my genarator if need be to heat the bottle faster ,otherwise I just flick my switch on the dash for 12 volt power.
My buddy's car runs mid 12's without the juice and I run mid 10's.
We run the 10.90 index,he will qualify almost every time with a 10.905 to my 10.909 or 8.I use my nitrous to run the Sumitt program at 9.37's.
I win when I am on the job and the tuner is not fighting with the driver
both are me.
Good luck and it can be done.If you come up against my buddy or me then one of us will take you out every time.Believe in what you can do not what others tell you can't be done.
www.mauiscuba.net/carpics/trophies.gif
I use a K-mart $20.00 outside temp and humidity gauge that I tape to the bottle.
I use 3 bottles ,I take the top off each one in qualifying.Sure it is work but if you want to win you have to work for it.I also use a presure regulator from checker that you can turn up or down the fuel presure in 1/2 lb incorments.I usually go from 6 to 8 lbs according to weather, I want to slow the car or speed it up.Higher number slower the car runs about one .10,I also keep the bottle at around 90 degrees or 950 psi.I have ice in my cooler with my drinks and I freez bottles of water before I go to the track so duel use
When the bottle gets to cold you have to pull off the ice before it hits 90 or it will drop another 4 degrees after I remove the ice that I have wraped in a towel.You must have a purge!!.If the presure is to high at the line, I hit the button until I get it down to where I want it.
You need to launch with nitrous to be consistant.You have to pick how you are going to run your race.My buddy uses his nitrous off the line and he has no power at the big end.I have a nos timer on mine and bring on the nitrous 3 seconds down the track ,my mile per hour is real high so I win my race at the big end not at the start.You do have to be good at the lights.I use the plug in 120 volt and 12 volt bottle warmer that I plug into my genarator if need be to heat the bottle faster ,otherwise I just flick my switch on the dash for 12 volt power.
My buddy's car runs mid 12's without the juice and I run mid 10's.
We run the 10.90 index,he will qualify almost every time with a 10.905 to my 10.909 or 8.I use my nitrous to run the Sumitt program at 9.37's.
I win when I am on the job and the tuner is not fighting with the driver
both are me.Good luck and it can be done.If you come up against my buddy or me then one of us will take you out every time.Believe in what you can do not what others tell you can't be done.
06-06-2008, 06:28 PM
#22
Team Owner
Doing OK
06-06-2008, 08:36 PM
#23
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Palm Beach Gardens Fl
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06-07-2008, 10:22 AM
#24
Team Owner
06-12-2008, 06:13 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here are my Nitrous win's last year .
www.mauiscuba.net/carpics/trophies.gif
I use a K-mart $20.00 outside temp and humidity gauge that I tape to the bottle.
I use 3 bottles ,I take the top off each one in qualifying.Sure it is work but if you want to win you have to work for it.I also use a presure regulator from checker that you can turn up or down the fuel presure in 1/2 lb incorments.I usually go from 6 to 8 lbs according to weather, I want to slow the car or speed it up.Higher number slower the car runs about one .10,I also keep the bottle at around 90 degrees or 950 psi.I have ice in my cooler with my drinks and I freez bottles of water before I go to the track so duel use When the bottle gets to cold you have to pull off the ice before it hits 90 or it will drop another 4 degrees after I remove the ice that I have wraped in a towel.
You must have a purge!!.If the presure is to high at the line, I hit the button until I get it down to where I want it.
You need to launch with nitrous to be consistant.You have to pick how you are going to run your race.My buddy uses his nitrous off the line and he has no power at the big end.I have a nos timer on mine and bring on the nitrous 3 seconds down the track ,my mile per hour is real high so I win my race at the big end not at the start.You do have to be good at the lights.I use the plug in 120 volt and 12 volt bottle warmer that I plug into my genarator if need be to heat the bottle faster ,otherwise I just flick my switch on the dash for 12 volt power.
My buddy's car runs mid 12's without the juice and I run mid 10's.
We run the 10.90 index,he will qualify almost every time with a 10.905 to my 10.909 or 8.I use my nitrous to run the Sumitt program at 9.37's.
I win when I am on the job and the tuner is not fighting with the driver both are me.
Good luck and it can be done.If you come up against my buddy or me then one of us will take you out every time.Believe in what you can do not what others tell you can't be done.
www.mauiscuba.net/carpics/trophies.gif
I use a K-mart $20.00 outside temp and humidity gauge that I tape to the bottle.
I use 3 bottles ,I take the top off each one in qualifying.Sure it is work but if you want to win you have to work for it.I also use a presure regulator from checker that you can turn up or down the fuel presure in 1/2 lb incorments.I usually go from 6 to 8 lbs according to weather, I want to slow the car or speed it up.Higher number slower the car runs about one .10,I also keep the bottle at around 90 degrees or 950 psi.I have ice in my cooler with my drinks and I freez bottles of water before I go to the track so duel use
When the bottle gets to cold you have to pull off the ice before it hits 90 or it will drop another 4 degrees after I remove the ice that I have wraped in a towel.You must have a purge!!.If the presure is to high at the line, I hit the button until I get it down to where I want it.
You need to launch with nitrous to be consistant.You have to pick how you are going to run your race.My buddy uses his nitrous off the line and he has no power at the big end.I have a nos timer on mine and bring on the nitrous 3 seconds down the track ,my mile per hour is real high so I win my race at the big end not at the start.You do have to be good at the lights.I use the plug in 120 volt and 12 volt bottle warmer that I plug into my genarator if need be to heat the bottle faster ,otherwise I just flick my switch on the dash for 12 volt power.
My buddy's car runs mid 12's without the juice and I run mid 10's.
We run the 10.90 index,he will qualify almost every time with a 10.905 to my 10.909 or 8.I use my nitrous to run the Sumitt program at 9.37's.
I win when I am on the job and the tuner is not fighting with the driver
both are me.Good luck and it can be done.If you come up against my buddy or me then one of us will take you out every time.Believe in what you can do not what others tell you can't be done.
it sounds like you have it figured out.Do you use a glass thermometer? Do you measure pressure at all times? I'm thinking of putting in a ball valve right after the gauge, before the solenoid, so I can keep the bottle open and pressure on the gauge without pressurizing the system.
I like the idea of using Ziplocks full of ice for cooling, dual purpose as you say.
I do have a purge. I’ll have to see how it works to cool the bottle.
Everyone has to account for some inconsistencies, temperature, track conditions, standard shifting etc. With knowledge and experience these can be minimized. Thanks for the advice, I’m beginning to feel less like the “Lone Ranger”. Hi Ho Silver, let’s spray!
06-12-2008, 07:50 PM
#26
Racer
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
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I use "Fire and Ice" from NX
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2008/fic.pdf
It works pretty well. On the way to a track event, I turn on the heater, and by the time I get to the track (45 minutes), The bottle reached operating pressure and stays at it the rest of the night. When the bottle sits in the sun at work all day and the pressures goto 1200psi plus, I turn on the heater and it cools down the bottle. All you have to do is set the pressure and it does all the work for you.
As far as being in consisitany, I usually run off the bottle. I just like to run nitrious for the hot, humid, summer days in Florida.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2008/fic.pdf
It works pretty well. On the way to a track event, I turn on the heater, and by the time I get to the track (45 minutes), The bottle reached operating pressure and stays at it the rest of the night. When the bottle sits in the sun at work all day and the pressures goto 1200psi plus, I turn on the heater and it cools down the bottle. All you have to do is set the pressure and it does all the work for you.
As far as being in consisitany, I usually run off the bottle. I just like to run nitrious for the hot, humid, summer days in Florida.
06-12-2008, 08:32 PM
#27
Race Director
If you come up on the 14th look for my buddy who will be there...his name is Mike and he races a red 79 vette....he pits at the end of the bleachers just down from the snack bar under a big tree...
06-13-2008, 05:53 AM
#28
Safety Car
Do you use a glass thermometer? Do you measure pressure at all times?
I have the temp thing from K-mark it is square and has an aa battery and mesures outside temp and humidty as well as inside, it is about 5 inch by 3 inches in size and I mount it on my dash.
I have the electric presure gauge on the dash for the bottle presure.
I have the temp thing from K-mark it is square and has an aa battery and mesures outside temp and humidty as well as inside, it is about 5 inch by 3 inches in size and I mount it on my dash.
I have the electric presure gauge on the dash for the bottle presure.
06-13-2008, 01:36 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I use "Fire and Ice" from NX
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2008/fic.pdf
It works pretty well. On the way to a track event, I turn on the heater, and by the time I get to the track (45 minutes), The bottle reached operating pressure and stays at it the rest of the night. When the bottle sits in the sun at work all day and the pressures goto 1200psi plus, I turn on the heater and it cools down the bottle. All you have to do is set the pressure and it does all the work for you.
As far as being in consisitany, I usually run off the bottle. I just like to run nitrious for the hot, humid, summer days in Florida.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2008/fic.pdf
It works pretty well. On the way to a track event, I turn on the heater, and by the time I get to the track (45 minutes), The bottle reached operating pressure and stays at it the rest of the night. When the bottle sits in the sun at work all day and the pressures goto 1200psi plus, I turn on the heater and it cools down the bottle. All you have to do is set the pressure and it does all the work for you.
As far as being in consisitany, I usually run off the bottle. I just like to run nitrious for the hot, humid, summer days in Florida.
, although they are rather proud of it! Does it work as well as advertised? I assume it runs on 12 volts. Have you had any issues with it running down your battery?
Thanks.
Nitrous Express (NX) SPEED00020 $287.50
Estimated Ship Date: 7/1/08
Brand: Nitrous Express (NX)
Product Line: Nitrous Express Fire and Ice Nitrous Bottle Pressure Controllers
Part Type: Nitrous Oxide Bottle Heaters
Part Number: NEX-SPEED00020
Bottle Heater Control Style: Thermostatically controlled
Power Supply: 12 V DC
Quantity: Sold individually.
Nitrous Pressure Controller, Fire and Ice, 10 lb./15 lb., 12 V DC, Thermostatically Controlled, Each
Advanced nitrous pressure control!
Tired of trying to keep your bottle pressure in the "sweet spot"? Nitrous Express has the ultimate answer--their Fire and Ice nitrous bottle pressure controllers. The microprocessor-controlled units keep bottle pressure correct in even the most demanding conditions. Advanced circuitry enables the solid-state heating and cooling unit to maintain nitrous pressure within a 5 psi window. If ambient temperatures cause the pressure in the nitrous bottle to escalate, the unit will bring the pressure down to a preset level. If the ambient temperatures result in low bottle pressure, the unit will heat the bottle to the same preset level.
06-14-2008, 02:08 PM
#30
Racer
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 464
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yes its 12 volts. No it has not killed my battery. Yes it works as advertised. The only thing negative I think of is that it takes around thirty minutes to achive operating pressure. But once its there, its good for the rest of the night.
06-15-2008, 05:13 PM
#31
Drifting
We have one racer at E Town who is one of the BEST BY FAR... he has a 50 shot on his 350 small block... the car on motor will run high 12s (about) and when he makes his time trials he runs on motor ONLY..
He then has the button for the 50 shot "IF" he needs it... First N20 wont help you cut a good light so thats out of the picture, "YOU have to cut the light... now what he does is if he has "what he thinks" is a good light he just races.. however lets say he is dialed at 12.20 ans spins just a little... well he then KNOWS he has to hit the N20 button just a "little" to make up for the spin...
Or lets say he "Thinks he was late" on the tree but hooks good... then he runs it to the 1000' and will see if he is catching the other car (if its slower) if he is NOT catching it.. he can hit the button for a quick shot to catch the other car,, & if the other guy was sandbagging he will break out trying to stay ahead.
So bottom line he does not use the N20 every run to get a good ET.. he only uses it as an "aid" to help him if needed because of spin or a bad light...
As said in the above post its almost impossible to bracket race with N20 and be consistant...
A few yrs ago for laughs I had a 1989 Honda Civic Automatic with 104,000 miles on it.. I brought it to E Town and even used a track Helmut so I looked like a "Dork" in a Tan 4 door Honda with body rust .. etc.. ( PS I'm over 60yrs old) I was racing in the Import class, and the Boyz from the Hood with their lowered Civics's etc..w/Nitrous were running 15's my car was running 18,8s so to SLOW It Down I would start in 2nd gear, and it would run 19.85.. and be very consistent..
so the Boyz would try to "Duck Hunt" me and I was dialed 19.87 they were 15.40... so when the tree came down I got my green and they had to wait over 4 full seconds... most of the time I'd see my win light come on because they went RED Or they hit the N20 too soon and would spin so bad with the Front Wheel Drive they never caught me... I won over $1000 in 2 Import races that way..
Bottom line N20 is Good if used in the right way....
He then has the button for the 50 shot "IF" he needs it... First N20 wont help you cut a good light so thats out of the picture, "YOU have to cut the light... now what he does is if he has "what he thinks" is a good light he just races.. however lets say he is dialed at 12.20 ans spins just a little... well he then KNOWS he has to hit the N20 button just a "little" to make up for the spin...
Or lets say he "Thinks he was late" on the tree but hooks good... then he runs it to the 1000' and will see if he is catching the other car (if its slower) if he is NOT catching it.. he can hit the button for a quick shot to catch the other car,, & if the other guy was sandbagging he will break out trying to stay ahead.
So bottom line he does not use the N20 every run to get a good ET.. he only uses it as an "aid" to help him if needed because of spin or a bad light...
As said in the above post its almost impossible to bracket race with N20 and be consistant...
A few yrs ago for laughs I had a 1989 Honda Civic Automatic with 104,000 miles on it.. I brought it to E Town and even used a track Helmut so I looked like a "Dork" in a Tan 4 door Honda with body rust .. etc.. ( PS I'm over 60yrs old) I was racing in the Import class, and the Boyz from the Hood with their lowered Civics's etc..w/Nitrous were running 15's my car was running 18,8s so to SLOW It Down I would start in 2nd gear, and it would run 19.85.. and be very consistent..
so the Boyz would try to "Duck Hunt" me and I was dialed 19.87 they were 15.40... so when the tree came down I got my green and they had to wait over 4 full seconds... most of the time I'd see my win light come on because they went RED Or they hit the N20 too soon and would spin so bad with the Front Wheel Drive they never caught me... I won over $1000 in 2 Import races that way..
Bottom line N20 is Good if used in the right way....
I have an NX 150 shot in my 05 C6 along with the NANO system which is suppose keep your bottle pressure constant and allow you to use the full contents of the bottle. I am still trying to get my car to run consistant with spray for over 3 years, still working on it. Cooling the bottle is my new issue in the summer, just this past Sat. I took along a 5 gallon pail with ice and stuck the bottle in there until I arrived at RP. I entered 11.0 index but only got one good time shot of 11.129 the rest off or the selonoid got stuck and no spray came on. I think I will try that fire and ice gadget, sounds like it will solve those cooling and pressure issues on very hot days.
Like Jpee says its all about that light, thats what I need to work on as well. The only thing is I don't get much seat time so its hard to expect to cut a good light that way.
06-15-2008, 05:17 PM
#32
Drifting
We have one racer at E Town who is one of the BEST BY FAR... he has a 50 shot on his 350 small block... the car on motor will run high 12s (about) and when he makes his time trials he runs on motor ONLY..
He then has the button for the 50 shot "IF" he needs it... First N20 wont help you cut a good light so thats out of the picture, "YOU have to cut the light... now what he does is if he has "what he thinks" is a good light he just races.. however lets say he is dialed at 12.20 ans spins just a little... well he then KNOWS he has to hit the N20 button just a "little" to make up for the spin...
Or lets say he "Thinks he was late" on the tree but hooks good... then he runs it to the 1000' and will see if he is catching the other car (if its slower) if he is NOT catching it.. he can hit the button for a quick shot to catch the other car,, & if the other guy was sandbagging he will break out trying to stay ahead.
So bottom line he does not use the N20 every run to get a good ET.. he only uses it as an "aid" to help him if needed because of spin or a bad light...
As said in the above post its almost impossible to bracket race with N20 and be consistant...
A few yrs ago for laughs I had a 1989 Honda Civic Automatic with 104,000 miles on it.. I brought it to E Town and even used a track Helmut so I looked like a "Dork" in a Tan 4 door Honda with body rust .. etc.. ( PS I'm over 60yrs old) I was racing in the Import class, and the Boyz from the Hood with their lowered Civics's etc..w/Nitrous were running 15's my car was running 18,8s so to SLOW It Down I would start in 2nd gear, and it would run 19.85.. and be very consistent..
so the Boyz would try to "Duck Hunt" me and I was dialed 19.87 they were 15.40... so when the tree came down I got my green and they had to wait over 4 full seconds... most of the time I'd see my win light come on because they went RED Or they hit the N20 too soon and would spin so bad with the Front Wheel Drive they never caught me... I won over $1000 in 2 Import races that way..
Bottom line N20 is Good if used in the right way....
He then has the button for the 50 shot "IF" he needs it... First N20 wont help you cut a good light so thats out of the picture, "YOU have to cut the light... now what he does is if he has "what he thinks" is a good light he just races.. however lets say he is dialed at 12.20 ans spins just a little... well he then KNOWS he has to hit the N20 button just a "little" to make up for the spin...
Or lets say he "Thinks he was late" on the tree but hooks good... then he runs it to the 1000' and will see if he is catching the other car (if its slower) if he is NOT catching it.. he can hit the button for a quick shot to catch the other car,, & if the other guy was sandbagging he will break out trying to stay ahead.
So bottom line he does not use the N20 every run to get a good ET.. he only uses it as an "aid" to help him if needed because of spin or a bad light...
As said in the above post its almost impossible to bracket race with N20 and be consistant...
A few yrs ago for laughs I had a 1989 Honda Civic Automatic with 104,000 miles on it.. I brought it to E Town and even used a track Helmut so I looked like a "Dork" in a Tan 4 door Honda with body rust .. etc.. ( PS I'm over 60yrs old) I was racing in the Import class, and the Boyz from the Hood with their lowered Civics's etc..w/Nitrous were running 15's my car was running 18,8s so to SLOW It Down I would start in 2nd gear, and it would run 19.85.. and be very consistent..
so the Boyz would try to "Duck Hunt" me and I was dialed 19.87 they were 15.40... so when the tree came down I got my green and they had to wait over 4 full seconds... most of the time I'd see my win light come on because they went RED Or they hit the N20 too soon and would spin so bad with the Front Wheel Drive they never caught me... I won over $1000 in 2 Import races that way..
Bottom line N20 is Good if used in the right way....
Nice story Mr.Panuzzo....
I have an NX 150 shot in my 05 C6 along with the NANO system which is suppose keep your bottle pressure constant and allow you to use the full contents of the bottle. I am still trying to get my car to run consistant with spray for over 3 years, still working on it. Mostly use it when running the Indexes, but sometimes i used it when I run brackets. Cooling the bottle is my new issue in the summer, just this past Sat. I took along a 5 gallon pail with ice and stuck the bottle in there until I arrived at RP. I entered 11.0 index but only got one good time shot of 11.129 the rest off or the selonoid got stuck and no spray came on. I think I will try that fire and ice gadget, sounds like it will solve those cooling and pressure issues on very hot days.
Like Jpee says its all about that light, thats what I need to work on as well. The only thing is I don't get much seat time so its hard to expect to cut a good light that way.
