I've been searching the web, looking for some info to improve my racing technique & stumbled on this site. I'm really impressed with the posts I've read regarding racing the stripe, spot dumping etc. I race at a number of Michigan tracks and also in Canada & am looking at the 2010 season to increase my knowledge and ability. I'm really impressed with Jesse and others regarding top end technique. My hang up is judging the stripe when racing a faster car. I race a 10 second 57 Chevy in pro & super pro and have a tough time with the dragsters. I'm starting to use the expressway technique that Jesse suggested. Any other thoughts or discussion on this topic will be greatly appriciatd. By the way, Scottie Richardson is hosting a two day seminar this summer at Grand Bend Motorplex. Anyone been to his school? The cost for the 2 days is $300 (classroom one day & Track time the next). Woundering if its worth the expense. Thanks again for the great racing info.

 

First off, Scotty's school is well worth it so I hear...as to the "expressway" technique, I am not familiar with that...

I can tell you that when I run cars much faster than me I dial hard and run it out the back door...if you are trapping 120 and your opponent comes at you running 170, judging the stripe is near impossible...

Naturally, you need to get an eye on your opponent as soon as possible just in case he has an issue....then you can adjust accordingly...

For years I raced a slow vette...I got pretty good at holding a bunch and dumping hard at the the line...it is a difficult technique to master but works well with faster cars...the vette had ABS brakes so they never locked up...I cannot do this with the old school Camaro I now race...it has manual brakes that will lock up in a heartbeat...

BTW, welcome to the board....

 

The best money I spent was for a bracket class. Several years ago I took a local class from an Atco racer and it really helped. I just got a subscription to the bracket site for x-mas.

Here a good pay for site:
http://www.thisisbracketracing.com/

I want to say that all the sharks approach racing the same way. What I learned from the local guy is dead on with Luke's teachings.

IMO you will be able to judge those faster cars. Seattime seattime seattime. Being the "slow" 10 second car in super your will always be going out first. Same old race everytime. Most of the dragsters won't be able to judge you. In my area there are about a half dozen super piperacks who can indeed judge anything. I feel they are the exceptions and not the rule. In my 14 second car I'm very confortable judging 10.20 cars and slower. I do have a fuzzy feeling (gut feeling usually been right) with cars between 10.10 and 9.60. 9.50 and faster I just dial hard and hope at the stripe. The more I "see" the faster cars the better I'm getting.

My racing mix:
1. I hold and drive the stripe most of the time.

2. If I feel that I can't judge then I'll dial hard and run it out.

3. Spot drop is reserved for the "special" opponent who can out drive me at the stripe and I'm hoping to mess them up by giving a "false" look in the box. IMO if the guy is too fast for either of us to judge why add another thing into the mix.

Even when dialing hard or spot dropping I'm ready to drive the stripe if something goes wackey.

Just a reminder you still have to cut a good light. Sometimes anything you do on the top end can't make up for a really bad light. Top end racing ensures a win when you win on the tree and can "save" you if your close to your opponents reaction. Top end does give you an opportunity to win the round.

Good luck and welcome to the site.

 

Everything I read is IMO. I have great respect for Jesse. That guy can and does drive everything out there and wins much more than his share but I even disagree with him.

There are 3 things you need:

1. Seat time. Lots of it.

2. Consistent car. You have to be able to dial the number.

3. Reaction time. Consistent .015/.020 lights.

If I'm not sure about the ET I dial .01 hard. I always run it out the back unless I can tell he won't catch me. I don't believe in a .01 MOV. Too close for me.

 

At the finish line turn your head 90 degrees and look directly at the midpoint of your opponents windshield post. If your dead on the midpoint your taking your .01x mov. Behind the spot they are taking stripe, in front you are taking too much. Works for most door cars. Exceptions are cars using flags, '53 ish GM and GMC pickups, and any full size vans.

 

WEB AIR:
I want to point out that your stragedy (dialer) is sound. One needs to race from there strong suit in any given stragedy.

 

I'm looking forward to a bunch of seat time this season. The expressway technique in a nut shell is to while cruising down the interstate, determine at what poing you will overtake or will be overtaken by the car in another lane. One thing I've learned last year is to spend alot more time finding and focusing on my competition during the pass. I try to get the left lane when possible as I can get a much better look over my right shoulder. I also use a simular technique to locate my opponent at the stripe. When both cars turn on the pre-stage light & I know were linde up on the beam, I glance over to the other car. In my car, when I have the left lane, the right vent window post will invariably fall on the nose of the other car, even with the dragsters. When I'm in the rt lane, I line up a thin piece of verticle tape on the driver side window with something identifiable on the other car. Another thing that struck me in kazmans post was the "fuzzy fealing". At times I have for no particular reason found myself in the zone where I just knew things were going to go my way & felt very relaxed and confident. I'm taking full advantage of the tree I have in my garage. (Lots of time with Mich. winter) My sweet wife sprung for a set of LED bulbs for my tree last Christmas and I hoping the practice will pay off this year.

 

Seat time and practice time will always be a benefit...that said, don't think you cannot win an event with a car that is not consistent...I did just that last week...I raced my tow vehicle in a Gamblers event...I never ran my number, not once...never even got close...played the stripe all five rounds...it was a good thing to since my Yukon wouldn't run the number in a gazillion years...

My MOV's ranged from a low of .011 to .023...exactly where I wanted them...yes, my lights were all good which allowed me to play the top end...dead on the binders every round...

The point is, cut a good light and eyeball your opponent as soon as possible...play the stripe whenever you can unless it is that rare occasion that he is coming like a hurricane....

 

Dan, did the truck make you focus more on the top end than you normally do? I was told that changing rides durning the season helps you maintain your top end skills. Makes you reley more on driving skills that the car. FYI my Silverado diesel crewcab runs withing of .2 on back to back timeslips.

 

Absolutely....my time shots, deep staging, varied from 10.82 to 10.96...I knew the "guess a dial" number on my car was bogus...I concentrated on hitting the tree and playing the big end...

For the last couple of years my race car has been hit and miss as well...she is finally beginning to come around...once I get her reasonably consistent I will be able to put a hurtin' on some folks...I have been two years getting to this point but I am close now...

 

The above are three rules you need to have to be able to race. The more you race, the more fine tuning you will do to the above three.

I don't turn my head 90 degrees, way to far to turn when you are going over a 100mph. I look at the front tire of the person I am racing - this way I can still be able to see the track in front of me and have a game plan. Each race has a different game plan for the top end.

If you are racing a 10.00 or quicker vehicle, you need to dial hard and tight. No room for mistakes. This way you can run it out the back door. If you breakout, it will be so little and that could win you the race.

My three cents

 

When I just look at the front tire I loose where I am in reference to my opponent and the stripe. I have my head turned but still look where I'm going.

 

how would you deal with a racer that will sandbag big time (.50), catch catch you at mid track and ride you to the stripe?

 

A reason I'm holding some. Drive hard to the box (just before the stripe) and dump. Let him take the stripe and breakout. Done that a number of times.

I never hold more that I can scrub. I usually run to the 1000' marker then start adjusting back into my opponent. Most I hold is .08 and that is a lot. Most of the time it's .02-.04.

 

My stomach turns inside out every time I do that, even though in that situation you pretty much have it won. I think I only consciously let someone else take the stripe once in '09. Dude was in an LS1 Camaro and I actually watched his only time shot, and he spun really hard. I had him in round 1 and he picked a very obviously slow dial-in. I listened to his launch and he definitely spun much less. He caught me somewhere around half track and started fender racing me. It looked like I was actually gonna take the stripe by .05 cause he got on the brakes hard approaching the box, and I was positive that he was gonna break out by a mile so I let him have it and he took .05 stripe. I think he broke out by like 2 1/2 tenths. He was real late too so he was pretty much screwed either way.

 

If your caught at mid track either you missed the tree big time or your opponent is holding a ton. You should have an idea if you missed the tree. Nothing like that warm feeling at the 1/8 I know what going on and I try to give as much striip as possible as close as possible to the finish. Sounds like you opponent got a car length in front and tried to come back to your fender. .05 is 1/2 a car lenght. I don't see anyone holding a ton and walking you in at the 1/8 in the weekly bracket races because there are several counter moves that are very effective. I do see it at the import and f-body stuff.

Another counter move is simply dialing hard and running it out. The idea is that if your opponent crosses first he will break out. With this method you do have to win the RT battle and you better be sure your making your dial. With my hold and dump I'm trying to make his mov larger that the RT gap. Lets me cut a more consertive light (less likely to go red). And since I'm holding too I know that were on a break out run.

 

I'm almost always the slower car but I'll dial the same regardless. A faster car I go .01 hard and a slower car I will dial dead on. I will say I have been known to tape both side windows.

 

Thanks Kaz. I'm old school and you're a better driver because of all of your techniques. Ya can't teach an old dog new tricks.

 

And the guys that race in circles think it's easy cause we go in a straight line.... Theres nothing to it just stab the gas and go....got my circle track friend to go drag racing..was all smug said he would have no problem...was first round fodder for 7 events.... But he said he had fun and all the fenders are still on the car

 

Thank you. I ain't exactly a pup. I started racing 10 years ago at 45 years old. I tried to get getter each year. I threw my racing book out and started the "new" program at the 2005 Div 1 ET Final race. Struggled with the program in 2006. Finally started to click in '07 but blew my knee out in July of that year. Downward spirl from that injury and managed to finish #10 at Maple in street points. Didn't race much in '08 but did finish #8 at RP in street. Again not much racing in '09 with the foot surgery. Did discover how to dial a car into the tree last year. Looking to do some damage this season. Old dogs can learn new tricks it just takes longer. Point of the post is that you really need to keep working at the progaram in order to attain those long term goals.