Hey Ralph, this is Alan - I used to race in the corvette challenge. Saw you might be willing to sell you 85. I have an interest - please email me at alaneckert4@gmail.com. Thanks!

 

Wow what are the heads and cam on that beast? Custom headers? Dyno?

and more importantly what’s this future engine!

 

I have an 800 hp f1a-94 383 lt1 e85 1993 6spd and im currently not having good luck getting the rear end to hold together thru a mcleod street twin and 315/35r17 mickey thompson et street r’s in a slicks/prep class.

if i could do it over, id race non-prep and get some spin/hopefully not break parts. Heck, id be cool with my tires slipping on the rim some vs. breaking stuff.

im reaching out so see if anybody has any advice.
After breaking an outer stub end (pass side) in 2024 with a 4000 rpm launch, I hardened my rear end with 1350 driveshaft u joints, steel drive and half shafts, ‘gladiator’ 3.73 D44 and mark williams 32 spline stub axles . Also
put viking shocks in with reb /compression turned up to about 66% of their max values.

For the 2025 drag race season with hardened parts:
I tried a 4200 RPM launch and Immediately broke the straps on the inner yoke side and both u-joints on the drivers side halfshaft. The spinning halfshaft broke thru the halfshaft safety loop (the grade 5 bolts holding it to the batwing snapped), broke thru the drivers storage tub and also cracked off the rear camber arm mount on both the batwing and diff.

Videos in and outside the car dont show a lot of rear squat - but i might be wrong as things happened fast and also the outer stub yokes inside show signs of being contacted from a halfshaft with an angle on it - but that could have been because of the failure of the straps.

note that I do have bump stops extended by about 1.25”

anybody that has any advice - let me know

looking for some seasoned advice from members here

somebdy told me that i would have been better off wth a cluth drop at 6000 rpm vs. one at 3500-4000 bc at 6000 / there’d be so much TQ /inertia that id be SURE to spin the tire some vs. dead hook and break stuff

I do have a clutch tamer, but the in cabin video
shows me not using it properly as I ride the pedal out. It needs an abrupt release to activate and them it slows the engagement

help!

 

Heres videos of the car from the outside and also from on the inside - shorted to fit CF max file size
requirements

 

I raced a 93 for about 10 years...after going through 4 Dana 36 rear ends in 4 years I finally went to a Dana 44...I had 3:73 gears and ran Nitto DR's...the 36 will NOT hold up...my motor had a few bolt on's but nothing fancy at all...good luck and welcome to the addiction...lol...

 

the 6spd is brutal, my old clutch/flywheel (sprung hub stage 3+ alum flywheel) would always bog. I never tried a clutch drop higher than 3200 rpm

my thinking is to:
1. Use the clutch tamer properly
2. upgrade the straps & strap bolts (if i can) on the inner yoke side
3. Set my shocks stiffer to limit rear squat (not sure if that was my problem based on above video)
4. Race in street tire no prep class on a 315/35r17 toyo r888r tire
-or-
race in prep class with an ET Drag bias ply tire which has some give in the sidewall.
that will mean ill have to trailer it to the track, but considering im having to hire a flatbed to take it home after breakage, maybe its not a bad idea to rent my own trailer to take it there anyways

5. Go solid axle if none of this works