???? @ 116 mph

10.960 @ 116.320, 1/8 6.960 mph 97.380 60' 1.466 Ford Mustang COUPE 1986 B Chandler
There are a few 11.0's with similar mph...


My best 116 MPH ET is 11.62 @ 116.11 with an unrecorded DA in October
Hope this helps.

[Modified by lotahp, 9:15 PM 11/19/2003]

I'm pretty sure that you'll see at least 11.70's if not 11.60's... The single plane intake will make some difference :yesnod: :yesnod:
Look at ND records, pick a car that runs your MPH (120) I bet it has an ET of 9s
now you look at a 9 sec car & say it should be running 130+ but its a matter of HP vs chassis set up. All NHRA (Stock & Super Stock) cars will look like the MPH is low because they hook hard & run quick ET for the amount of HP they have.
Now look at some kid with a Honda with a 200 shot of NOS he will run 13s but also 115 mph.. a lot of MPH (he has HP but low traction)
Good chassis will run quick ET... High HP will run high MPH..if you take a high MPH car, that has a slow ET.. set up the chassis, & the ET will drop like a stone!
I'd rather run 12.2 @ 110 than 12.90 @ 117 why..... because I'd win !! :D
Maybe someone with a little more knowledge than me can jump in..
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts



Look at ND records, pick a car that runs your MPH (120) I bet it has an ET of 9s
now you look at a 9 sec car & say it should be running 130+ but its a matter of HP vs chassis set up. All NHRA (Stock & Super Stock) cars will look like the MPH is low because they hook hard & run quick ET for the amount of HP they have.
Now look at some kid with a Honda with a 200 shot of NOS he will run 13s but also 115 mph.. a lot of MPH (he has HP but low traction)
Good chassis will run quick ET... High HP will run high MPH..if you take a high MPH car, that has a slow ET.. set up the chassis, & the ET will drop like a stone!
I'd rather run 12.2 @ 110 than 12.90 @ 117 why..... because I'd win !!
Years ago, racers who REALLY searched for their ultimate ET used a simple method of judging how well they had 'applied' their HP to the track.
It was called the "HOOK FACTOR", and it was really quite simple.
You just multiply your ET by your MPH.
As I recall (I'm going back 20+ years, so, bear with me...!), the closer you got to a 'mythical' number of 1300-1320, the better your 'hook-factor' was.
If you are 'above' the 1320-range, you can run a quicker ET (at the same MPH) with chassis-tuning, converter, or gearing; if you 'factored' below 1300, you had too-much gear already (case-in-point; I once worked with a guy who's '73 T/A had a 455 SD & 4.56 gears. It was 'wound-tight' WELL before the stripe, running 12.60s @ 'only' 97 MPH: his 'factor was in the low-12-hundreds. After switching to 3.90-gears, he ran 12.30s @ 108 MPH, a factor of 1330...)
In the scenario John mentioned above, a car running 12.2 @ 110 'factors' at '1342', where-as the 12.7/117 car 'factors' at '1485+'.
*** A word of caution: ***
The lower the 'hook-factor', the harder the car MUST leave, and the greater traction woes will exist: the 12.2-car has a VERY good 60', but runs out of steam, while the 12.7-car 'walks' off the line, making up time further down-track.....














