283 block, is it worth it?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: North Bay CA
283 block, is it worth it?
i aquired a 283 about a week ago with plans to put it in a 1972 240Z.
is that block worth putting money into? if so, how far can i stroke it without modifying the journals?
is that block worth putting money into? if so, how far can i stroke it without modifying the journals?
One gear at a time
Joined: Aug 2003
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CI 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
Depending on the year of the block, you may be able to bore it out to 4.00", which is the same as the 302, 327, and 350 engines. From there with a 3.00" stroke you get a 302, 3.25" stroke results in a 327, and a 3.48" stroke results in a 350. Or, you could run a 3.75" stroke and make a 377 out of your 283. That's what I did with my 59's 283.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
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From: North Bay CA
vin #
Originally Posted by wesmigletz
Depending on the year of the block, you may be able to bore it out to 4.00", which is the same as the 302, 327, and 350 engines. From there with a 3.00" stroke you get a 302, 3.25" stroke results in a 327, and a 3.48" stroke results in a 350. Or, you could run a 3.75" stroke and make a 377 out of your 283. That's what I did with my 59's 283.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,429
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From: CA
I think boring a 283 to 4" is asking for trouble. Look at the bottom of the cyls. If they are flat, it's pre-'62, & the bigger throw cranks won't fit (the later blocks are curved to clear larger crank counterweights). Does it still have the heads on it? If so, check the valve cover bolts. If they are offset, it's an early motor. The good news is all 283 had a forged steel crank in 'em.
You may have a problem if you want to install aftermarket heads because of valve clearance.
At the end of the day, it's still cheaper & better to build a 350.
EDIT: One more thing, the early motors had the motor mounts on the front corners, not on the sides. This may be a big issue with a SB swap kit.
You may have a problem if you want to install aftermarket heads because of valve clearance.
At the end of the day, it's still cheaper & better to build a 350.
EDIT: One more thing, the early motors had the motor mounts on the front corners, not on the sides. This may be a big issue with a SB swap kit.
Last edited by 71coupe; Apr 15, 2005 at 05:07 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Absolutely! The 283 was introduced in 1957.
Check the bore. If it is 3.75", it could have been original in the 1955. That makes it a 265. The 283 had a 3.875" bore. Both had a 3.00" stroke.
RACE ON!!!
Check the bore. If it is 3.75", it could have been original in the 1955. That makes it a 265. The 283 had a 3.875" bore. Both had a 3.00" stroke.
RACE ON!!!
Last edited by CFI-EFI; Apr 15, 2005 at 10:02 AM.
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One gear at a time
Joined: Aug 2003
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CI 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
Regarding the 4.00" bore, I had my block magnafluxed and was told it could go another .030" over. That said, I agree with the others that you are better off starting with a later 327, 350, or 400 block.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
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From: North Bay CA
327, 350, 400
my whole gig with the 283 is that it is shorter(couple a inches) than the taller 327/350 block, and with the motor mount dimensions that i want to use(jtr) leaving the pan on the road as i go will be a problem.
Race Director
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by nbayZguy
my whole gig with the 283 is that it is shorter(couple a inches) than the taller 327/350 block,
RACE ON!!!
Last edited by CFI-EFI; Apr 21, 2005 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Add: [Edit]
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
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From: North Bay CA
re:misinformation
the block is not a v6
when i looked at a 327/350 block and i looked at this one, the 327/350 appeared to be taller by 2"(+/- .75"). the block has provisions for an oil filter , the mounts are on the sides, and the bore(measured with a tape measure) is 3.8"+, so i dont think i am dealing with a 1955 smallblock.
i am going to try to build this car to race at infinion, and was wondering if anyone had any idea as to what class i could get a 1972 240z into at said raceway.
when i looked at a 327/350 block and i looked at this one, the 327/350 appeared to be taller by 2"(+/- .75"). the block has provisions for an oil filter , the mounts are on the sides, and the bore(measured with a tape measure) is 3.8"+, so i dont think i am dealing with a 1955 smallblock.
i am going to try to build this car to race at infinion, and was wondering if anyone had any idea as to what class i could get a 1972 240z into at said raceway.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
It doesn't sound like you are dealing with a small block Chevy engine. It's going to be tough to build if you don't know what it is.
Infineon has bracket racing. Your "class" is determined by your ETs.
RACE ON!!!
Infineon has bracket racing. Your "class" is determined by your ETs.
RACE ON!!!
Last edited by CFI-EFI; Apr 21, 2005 at 10:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
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From: North Bay CA
response
it has taken better than a week to find out the answer to, and i quote, "is that block worth putting money into?" i have concluded from your responses that that the engine i have is not one i should use, hence the purpose of this forum has ben reaffirmed. in the future, if you need to belittle someone for their lack of knowledge, indulge me in keeping it to yourself, and not burdening me with the responsibility of being your punching bag.
Race Director
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by nbayZguy
in the future, if you need to belittle someone for their lack of knowledge, indulge me in keeping it to yourself, and not burdening me with the responsibility of being your punching bag.
Then, after a week of silence, you announced, "anyone need an anchor?", as a single line post. That made it sound as though with a weeks worth of research you finally discovered what you had. Because I had been involved in trying to help you, I was curious what you had learned. If nothing, why the conclusive post so much later?
RACE ON!!!
Last edited by CFI-EFI; May 1, 2005 at 08:04 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: North Bay CA
i did not post sooner because work has been keeping my time completely occupied, and your initial answer was cryptic(free=full price), hence my continued inquiry into the matter. i have concluded, after posting on this forum, as well as consulting with mechanics that i know, that what block i need to use is s 350. that block will give me the cost effective potential i seek.
i will post a build list as soon as i get the time, and petty differences aside, i would be curious what suggestions you would have.
i will post a build list as soon as i get the time, and petty differences aside, i would be curious what suggestions you would have.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
There is no question that a 350 is definitely a good, and a much better starting point, than a 283. WHAT the best starting point might be was never asked.
What "potential" is it that you seek? There are unlimited ways to build a 350. What are your performance goals? Vehicle specifics? Horsepower goals? Usage? Budget? My crystal ball is STILL in the shop, and The Great Carnak is dead.
RACE ON!!!
Originally Posted by nbayZguy
that block will give me the cost effective potential i seek.
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
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From: North Bay CA
my apologies for the tardiness of my reply, family matters had me tied up this week. to answer your questions, the potential i seek is a c5 zo6 quarter mile time. I was looking to spent $5,000 - $6,000 on the motor. as far as horsepower goes, i’m shooting for 500 at 7,000 rpm(mby wishfull thinking). i plan on using this car mostly on the track, aside from the occasional Sunday "show the Honda cars they still suck" spree. do you favor cubic inches or displacement, and what do you think would lend itself more to my goals?
Last edited by nbayZguy; May 13, 2005 at 08:44 PM. Reason: wrong info