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I have just installed a new ZZ4 in my 1965 Vette. What should be the max oil temp. I am taking the oil temp at the hole just above the filter. I live in the greater Phoenix, AZ area and, as you know, it gets a little warm here in the summer. Right now I have regular 10W 30 oil in it for break-in but will switch to synthetic at 1,000 miles.
Well that is all relevant, if you run the oil at 315 degrees you will simply need to change it out after the run. If you are running reasonable temps for reasonable time then you will be fine. On my race car I do not like to sustain temps in excess of 245 for a long time since I am endurance racing but for your app there should be no problem with hitting it up higher once in a while.
From: [Quote=WOEII] Is dried brown doodie powders man! [/Quote]
Originally Posted by Deakins
Well that is all relevant
If I am at the track and hot lapping (1/4 mile) I'll see upwards of 240 degrees. Generally driving normally the oil temp hovers around 200. I have an L98 which is similar to the ZZ4. I've seen guys on hear that track the car report temps of 275+. You didn't say what your temp was but chances are very good that it's normal.
Just tooling around in AZ I would suspect your oil temps to be from 200 to 220. We get fairly hot in the NE during the summer and I don't recall my temps getting above 210 in normal to spirited driving.
Oil is created by heat,it is also destroyed by heat. This applies to both dino & syn oils. Some oils handle heat better than others (actually,it's the additive package that gets damaged.) If the oil is tuning into varnish,then it's done. Rule of thumb:
For every 10 degrees over 250F,your oil "life" gets cut in half. Write this down,commit it to memory.
I knew being a tribologist would come in handy someday!
Right now I have regular 10W 30 oil in it for break-in but will switch to synthetic at 1,000 miles.
Generally a new engine will run hotter during break in than afterward. You didn't say how hot it is running, but under the same conditions you ought to notice it going down. I wouldn't be in too big of a rush to change over to synthetic.
In Germany we are used to driving fast, not only for a few minutes but if we want, for as long as traffic or some speed limits permit. I’m running an oil cooler on mine, so I don’t have temperatures over 260°.
People from Castrol told me that normal dino oil is good up to 260° and synthetic up to 300° before the additives start to being destroyed. This means 260°/300° for as long as you want, and not just for a few seconds/minutes.
Regardless of what temperature the oil will handle - sustained or briefly, conventional nitrile based seals and gaskets rapidly age beyond above 250F, unless it's a modern engine designed for high oil temps and all the elastomers are viton.
My criterion is 230 max sustained and 260 max for brief periods.
Generally a new engine will run hotter during break in than afterward. You didn't say how hot it is running, but under the same conditions you ought to notice it going down. I wouldn't be in too big of a rush to change over to synthetic.
RACE ON!!!
I experienced hotter temps, noticeable inside the cabin right by my shifter, after my engine was rebuilt. After about 500 miles or so, things cooled down nicely.
I used Castrol 5w-30 during all of the break-in.....and 4,000 miles later I'm still using the same dino oil. As a matter of fact, I will never switch to synthetic. I change my oil every 3-5,000 miles. I also have a factory oil cooler. '90 L98-based engine. My oil temps hover around 210* during summer months, as evidenced by datalogs.
I see absolutely no reason whatsoever to thrown money down the drain at more expensive synthetic oil. Its a total waste, in a case like mine anyway.
Last edited by Red Tornado; Feb 27, 2006 at 09:24 PM.