400/327=350?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 309
Likes: 5
From: La Crosse,WI,USA
400/327=350?
I have to true up my 400 that is bored .030 over. I believe that .040 will do it? bzstingray has a small bore 327 crank and some 6" Aluminum Rods to fit it. I was thinking of slipping this into the 400 Block. But I haven't seen anyone offering Main Bearings for small journal 327 Cranks to fit in a 400 Block? Do you guys think this is a good plan to build up the 400 small block? Or go for a stroker? This is a street car that I don't plan on reving high and I have a lot of gear with a T56 and 3.07 gears.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 207
Likes: 34
From: raleigh N.C.
speed pro makes a one piece main bearing that
adapts a large journal crank to the larger journal 400 block
and several other companys that make
spacers to use the regular 400 bearings
I've never seen a small journal crank in a 400
but plenty of big journal 327 and 350 cranks in the 400 block
you would have to get your hands on a 69 dz302 big journal crank
or just order a custom crank from somewhere if you want a 3 inch stroke. unless your blowing or spraying be prepared to spin the pizz out of it to see any real power
adapts a large journal crank to the larger journal 400 block
and several other companys that make
spacers to use the regular 400 bearings
I've never seen a small journal crank in a 400
but plenty of big journal 327 and 350 cranks in the 400 block
you would have to get your hands on a 69 dz302 big journal crank
or just order a custom crank from somewhere if you want a 3 inch stroke. unless your blowing or spraying be prepared to spin the pizz out of it to see any real power
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,976
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio Texas
Just my $.02 worth...Build big for the street. Forget the 3.25" crank, and think 3.75" (stock 400) at least. 3.875" or 4.00" is better. Besides, I don't think you can run aluminum rods successfully on the street.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 9
From: B'Ville NY
Cruise-In III Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05
Here is a good read for you. It is an article about what you're asking 
Aluminum rods are usually saved for the strip only 
Aluminum rods are usually saved for the strip only
Last edited by SmokedTires; Dec 30, 2005 at 02:59 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati Oh
Let's see - you're going to buy a crank anyway...
it's a 400" block for THE STREET (read: torque)
You're not going to spin it high (read: torque)
You'll want it to have decent manners (read: torque)
You already have modest gearing (read: torque)
Stroke it out. Get a 3.875" crank for 421 cubes, slap a converted single plane or LT1 intake on there and make more power than you know what to do with. You could go with a 4.000" stroke but I'm pretty sure you'll have major clearance issues with a stock block (if it would even fit in the first place) and the hassle probably wouldn't be worth the ~14 extra cubes.
Putting such a small stroke in that block, for the cost of a new crank, to spin to less than 6K+ for the "street" just doesn't make any sense. My opinion though.
it's a 400" block for THE STREET (read: torque)
You're not going to spin it high (read: torque)
You'll want it to have decent manners (read: torque)
You already have modest gearing (read: torque)
Stroke it out. Get a 3.875" crank for 421 cubes, slap a converted single plane or LT1 intake on there and make more power than you know what to do with. You could go with a 4.000" stroke but I'm pretty sure you'll have major clearance issues with a stock block (if it would even fit in the first place) and the hassle probably wouldn't be worth the ~14 extra cubes.
Putting such a small stroke in that block, for the cost of a new crank, to spin to less than 6K+ for the "street" just doesn't make any sense. My opinion though.
Last edited by Ramanstud; Dec 30, 2005 at 10:15 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 348
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton Square,NJ ; Mercer
Putting such a small stroke in that block, for the cost of a new crank, to spin to less than 6K+ for the "street" just doesn't make any sense. My opinion though.
[/QUOTE]
I think you are confused. If you put a 327 crank in a 400 block, you can have a 9000rpm motor without really trying. Build it with a Solid or solid roller cam, free flowing heads and decent induction. That combo gives you a 353. I am trying a 377 myself which is a 400 bolck with a 350 crank. When I started gathering parts for this motor, the 353 pistons were not availaible, otherwise I would have built the 353.
On the other hand if you want a limited rev tourqe motor, do the long stroke combo. It's all in what you want. I personally like the response and sound of a high revving motor. I drive on the street only and am not into the track. I drive a convertable, and about one pass is all I would be able to do for I require a roll bar (anything under 13.99 requires converts to have one) and it gets you baned from running again.
[/QUOTE]I think you are confused. If you put a 327 crank in a 400 block, you can have a 9000rpm motor without really trying. Build it with a Solid or solid roller cam, free flowing heads and decent induction. That combo gives you a 353. I am trying a 377 myself which is a 400 bolck with a 350 crank. When I started gathering parts for this motor, the 353 pistons were not availaible, otherwise I would have built the 353.
On the other hand if you want a limited rev tourqe motor, do the long stroke combo. It's all in what you want. I personally like the response and sound of a high revving motor. I drive on the street only and am not into the track. I drive a convertable, and about one pass is all I would be able to do for I require a roll bar (anything under 13.99 requires converts to have one) and it gets you baned from running again.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
63FI, not sure if you caught it in the initial thread but they were not planning on revving this thing up too high. I guess it's all comes down to what you consider high revving. I too like the sound of building a large bore, short stroke engine. I am currently running a 302 in my 60 vette. It is a street car but not something that is driven everyday. If I am building a street engine like the one I have for my 75 vette. Torque is king. Are you building for reliability? Just remember that horsepower is only a function of torque and rpm. 9000 rpm engine for the street? Sounds awesome, but I for one would not be able to keep out of it. If 9000 rpm was your readline why wouldn't you rev it up to that every opportunity you get. Even if you could build a reliable high revving engine, how long before the rest of your car breaks, i.e. trans, drive shaft, rear, and don't forget the 6 u-joints. It is possible to build a car to handle this, but is that really what you set out to do. In my opinion, establish what you want to do with the car. Consider what you want to spend. Consider what is currently on the car and then proceed.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 0
From: Hawaii
I agree with the "build for torque" posts. To me, a high winding engne is a waste on the street. Build a "big" small block (421"-434") and slap on a 5 speed with a 3.27 first and a 3.36 rear and be ready to hold on
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 309
Likes: 5
From: La Crosse,WI,USA
Thanks for the Help
Big Stroke makes sense to me, I thought maybe the long rod would make up of the lack of stroke but it appears that I should increase the stroke of my current engine and make a stump puller out of it. Which is what I really wanted all along.
-Thanks
-Thanks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 309
Likes: 5
From: La Crosse,WI,USA
Thanks for the Help
Big Stroke makes sense to me, I thought maybe the long rod would make up of the lack of stroke but it appears that I should increase the stroke of my current engine and make a stump puller out of it. Which is what I really wanted all along. -Thanks
