Canton RR oil pan question
Thread Starter
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Canton RR oil pan question
I bought it and the pick-up used and so have no instructions. Do I use the stock LT1 windage tray with it or does the pan incorporate everything needed?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,816
Likes: 2
From: Austin, TX
I have the Canton LT1 pan. It looks pretty much the same as the one pictured above. Windage tray is built-in to the pan, so you CAN'T use it with the stock windage tray. You also have to use standard-length bolts or studs instead of the stock extended center main bolts because they'll hit the windage tray on the canton pan.
Since your pan is used, it's possible someone removed the canton windage tray, in which case, you should be able to just use the stock one.
In any case, definitely test-fit the pan to make sure you have proper clearance on everything. Especially if you're building a stroker. You'll need to test-fit it anyway to make sure you have proper pickup-to-pan clearance. I forget what the gap is supposed to be, though.
Also, make sure the dipstick goes in properly with the pan and tray on. I had to drill a hole in my canton windage tray for the stock dipstick.
Since your pan is used, it's possible someone removed the canton windage tray, in which case, you should be able to just use the stock one.
In any case, definitely test-fit the pan to make sure you have proper clearance on everything. Especially if you're building a stroker. You'll need to test-fit it anyway to make sure you have proper pickup-to-pan clearance. I forget what the gap is supposed to be, though.
Also, make sure the dipstick goes in properly with the pan and tray on. I had to drill a hole in my canton windage tray for the stock dipstick.
Thread Starter
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Well that's what I figured but since the engine's still in the car I wasn't sure. Now I know what kind of main studs to buy for the new build. Thanks, guys.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
I used a similar pan on my ZZ4 which came with the extended studs for a factory windage tray. Since the engine was still installed in the car and I was doing the pan swap from underneath I didn't really want to take the factory studs out of the main caps. So I "bubba" it slightly. I marked where the studs hit the windage tray and cut a 1/2" hole thru the windage screen to allow the stud to protrude thru. Also, since my car is used mainly for the street I cut a small section off of the rear of the screen to allow the dipstick to work correctly.
Just an alternative to buying new studs and having to retorque the main caps from under the car.
By the way, its a great pan ... love it
.
Just an alternative to buying new studs and having to retorque the main caps from under the car.
By the way, its a great pan ... love it
.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Have a look at this thread
Road race oil pan w/ LT headers
I made several posts about installing a Canton on my L98. In this
case, I replaced the three windage tray studs with conventional
main cap bolts. I did not disturb the caps and even if I had (was
tempted to plasti-gauge them), I would not have been concerned
about R&Ring them. Re-torque with an accurate wrench and be done.
There are a few other L98 details in subsequent posts I made there that
might apply and be helpful, too.
Maybe PM ScaryFast to see how he proceeded.
.
Road race oil pan w/ LT headers
I made several posts about installing a Canton on my L98. In this
case, I replaced the three windage tray studs with conventional
main cap bolts. I did not disturb the caps and even if I had (was
tempted to plasti-gauge them), I would not have been concerned
about R&Ring them. Re-torque with an accurate wrench and be done.
There are a few other L98 details in subsequent posts I made there that
might apply and be helpful, too.
Maybe PM ScaryFast to see how he proceeded.
.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
BTW - If you are considering a pump upgrade. I just looked up the +10%
Melling pump (p/n 10552) mentioned at the end of that thread.
In doing so, I discovered that there is a p/n 10552C version that comes
with some very nice extras for just $10 more. You need to confirm that
the 10552 is correct for you. But whatever pump you get, consider
the benefits of the 'C' option.
From Jeg's site
Now I can buy one already built right off the shelf for pocket change.
Let the good times roll.
.
Melling pump (p/n 10552) mentioned at the end of that thread.
In doing so, I discovered that there is a p/n 10552C version that comes
with some very nice extras for just $10 more. You need to confirm that
the 10552 is correct for you. But whatever pump you get, consider
the benefits of the 'C' option.
From Jeg's site
SB-Chevy, +10% Volume, Anti-Cavitation Design Housing, Includes Pump Shaft
689-10552C
Note: The Anti-Cavitation models feature specifically machined grooves
in the housing and cover to reduce cavitation effects in high RPM
applications. The drive and idler shafts have also been extanded in both
the housing and cover, this eliminates dynamic shaft deflection at
increased RPM levels. The cover is doweled to the pump housing to
assure alignment of the shaft bores. The gears are billet steel and the
pump relief valve has a screw-in plug instead of a pin. The drive shaft
has a male hex drive with the corresponding female hex intermediate
shaft supplied. The pick-up screen hole is machined to use original
press-fit screens. The housing and cover are CNC-machined and then
coated with Manganese Phosphate for wear and rust prevention. A
stock pressure spring is also included to reduce bypass pressure if
needed. With this pump design, oil pressure is slightly reduced at idle.
Designed for racing applications only. Uses bolt-on style 689-12557
with 7'' deep pan, 689-12558 with 7.5'' deep pan, or 689-12559 with 8''
deep pan.
I modified a few BBC pumps by hand with a die grinder years and years ago.689-10552C
Note: The Anti-Cavitation models feature specifically machined grooves
in the housing and cover to reduce cavitation effects in high RPM
applications. The drive and idler shafts have also been extanded in both
the housing and cover, this eliminates dynamic shaft deflection at
increased RPM levels. The cover is doweled to the pump housing to
assure alignment of the shaft bores. The gears are billet steel and the
pump relief valve has a screw-in plug instead of a pin. The drive shaft
has a male hex drive with the corresponding female hex intermediate
shaft supplied. The pick-up screen hole is machined to use original
press-fit screens. The housing and cover are CNC-machined and then
coated with Manganese Phosphate for wear and rust prevention. A
stock pressure spring is also included to reduce bypass pressure if
needed. With this pump design, oil pressure is slightly reduced at idle.
Designed for racing applications only. Uses bolt-on style 689-12557
with 7'' deep pan, 689-12558 with 7.5'' deep pan, or 689-12559 with 8''
deep pan.
Now I can buy one already built right off the shelf for pocket change.
Let the good times roll.
.
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