Ok, so I finally picked up the short block from the machine shop today. Got the block home and on a stand and am about to begin work.
Now for starters, I should say Im a real novice when it comes to hardcore engine perforamnce and assembly. However, I have alot of older guys that are gonna walk me through just about everything to do. I want to make sure I touch on everything though, so Im starting here.
I asked for a short block cuz of $$. Now I think I should of done the long block but at the time I didnt really know the difference, I thought it was just heads on or off the block. Anyway, now I gotta install the timing cover, balancer, and front pulley. I have a two piece rear main seal cam in an adapted one piece block and they gave me the wrong flywheel. It fits the block, but is larger in diameter than the stock flywheel and wont line up with the starter. Gotta install the oil pump and pickup as well as oil and install the new lifters and pan that holds them in place. Then Ill install the heads and a 1.6 rocker roller tip which I havnt bought yet, along with a hardned chromoly pushrod.
So whats the question. Well, the guy thats helping me said we're going to use playdoe to make sure the valves line up correctly to the piston, I should let every lifter oil component and bolt sit in stp for a night or two. He also said he thought a 383 had a shorter stroke. The machinist was telling me how I might need to hit on the oil pan to make the rods clear both that and the other tray. However, the veteran guy helping me thought it was a shorter stroke like I said, and pointed out that it appeared nothing would hit the little oil tray thingy And that it certainly shouldnt hit the pan. Anyway, Im gonna have alot of questions, but Im hoping theres some experienced guys that can throw in their 2 cents or more on this one... Ive gotten alot from this forum, and I dont want to be leaving it cuz I fry my motor by not oiling the lifters or something stupid like that. Thanx alot in advance
Paul

 

For the lifters, some have recommended to just stroke the lifter portion in a bottle of motor oil until the air bubbles have disappeared. I did this to a flat tappet hydraulic and it worked fine. I've also heard leaving the lifters in the oil over night (like you stated, but the stroking sounded better).

The oil pan shouldn't be too much problem. The easy way is to just trial fit everything and spin the engine over to see if you notice any contact. You will want to use the gasket, etc so it is just like assembled. If it hits then dent it where the marks occur. That would be my technique. Another more involved would be to use "play doe" on close surfaces and install the pan and remove and measure their depth. Little messy but probably more foolproof. I think someone had a situation of oil pan hitting the rotating assembly and had to take it back apart.

350's stroke is 3.48.
383's stroke is 3.75.

Hope that helps.