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From: The problem is all inside your head she said to me.
General Questions
First here is a description of my set up:
350/.040 flat top 2valve reliefs, forged crank, 4bolt block, 650 holley, Edelbrock performer(As we all know we have low hood clearance), 041 casting heads, comp cam 280, ceramic coated headers into 2.25 in pipe then necking down to 2inch od to exit the mufflers and out the back, MSD distributor and 6A box, scatter shield, 4speed, 3.70 turning 235/60/15 BF goodrich street tires, home made traction bars.
I have run a best of 13.10 at 105.8 with 2.02 60' time. Does this sound Good? I though so but some of you are flying. What do you think is the "weakest link " in my set up. I don't have much hood clearance and don't have much room between the top of the choke tower and top of air cleaner. Is this holding the motor back. Are there any mods that do not affect general drivability. Like miling the choke tower off???? I am capable of doing this but have hears mixed views. Some say it si OK some say it trashes the carb. Would it help anyway? I guess I am not looking to build a monster right now but would like to just once say It has been in the 12's Thanks
:seeya
Actually, depending on temp and elevation, I'd say that that sounds about right for your setup. I've run between 107-108 mph in the quarter with good air, but more typically, around 105. I've been running on old Goodyear VR eagles (as used on 5.0 litre Mustangs) and have a hard time with traction so my 60 times are around 2.4-2.5 sec and qtr times are in high 13s.
64 Coupe, 331 CI, Crane 222 degree (327/350 hp) cam, Edlebrock Performer RPM with 1" spacer, lifter valley thermal shield, Holley 650 dp, K&N 4"x14" air cleaner, 427 hood with center cut out (cold air induction) 10:1 CR, Comp Cams 1.52 roller tip rockers, pocket ported and port matched 2.02/1.60 iron heads, Doug Thorley cermacoated headers, 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with DynoMax MaxFlow mufflers, and 2.5" tips, Mallory HiFire IV and Mallory High voltage coil, solid copper spark plug wires, 3:70 gears, 225/60/15 tires.
I'd say that is pretty good on street tires. I have a best of 12.9 at 108 with a 60 foot of about 2.1. Very consistant with this. I ahve some more carb tuning to do so I hope to go deeper in the 12s but I was in the low 13s for a long time. Mods are in signature
From: The problem is all inside your head she said to me.
Re: General Questions (INMYBLOOD)
Thanks for the replys. The heads are not ported. I have had this engine so long I cant remember if they were originaly 2.02/1.6 or if I had them put the larger valves in last time. I have also heard just puting in the larger valves does not help by it's self. I was looking for ideas with out changing anything as in low budget like carb mods. I have always wondered if you notice the differance with a cylinder head change?? Has anyone just changed the heads and felt or measured the differance? I always wanted a stroker but cheep out on myself when it comes time to build it. That was my best time in good air about three weeks ago. I feel it is capable of the low 13's as a general rule. I wish I had a set of drag radials or a set of 4.11's to try. This engine does seem to be a nicely matched combo. Thanks for all the feed back.
Believe you would notice big difference (maybe 40 to 50 hp),by going to some new technology heads. Problem is you want low budget and new heads will run you $800 to $1,000, but based upon information you supplied, I believe heads/flow is your ''weakest link". Note that you could go with the Chev truck Vortec heads, a good buy @ about $450, but these would require a new Vortec Performer intake ($165), self aligning rocker arms, and center bolt vavle covers(another $150 to $200), plus new gasket set($80) assuming you do the install yourself.
If your heads were AL I'd say you could poilish and maybe even port them yourself (talk about cheap) but they're iron I presume. I also think this should be your next step. Then maybe one of those open air chamber hoods or whatever they're called...