I thought all was well just now. Went WOT a few times and really strung it out. Pulls nice. Got off the Highway, went to the stop sign.. WOT out of the hole... Missed at the top of first...Blew the tires off..but an obvious miss was heard. Not sure if that's a limiter..Or what. I don't remember it doing that before. We took that crap hose out..but didn't replace it with a high pressure fuel hose. LOL it's a home depot washer hose. Those white one's that are pretty stiff. Maybe it's telling me something already? I've been trying to get my mechanic to install the high pressure fuel hose for a few days..and no avail. I certainly don't want to hurt this thing either. I've been through enough I'd say. I JUST WANNA RACE. I'll double check the fuel pressure at idle and make sure it's alright. Timing has returned to "0" initial and no detonation was heard. There was some with it at 6. I wanted to return the timing to how I found it after coming back from LPE.(Though they said they didn't touch the distributor). Maybe they put a limiter in there?

 

^ ^ ^

 

If there's detonation at 6 and they didn't touch the dist, then they put too much timing in their wonder chip. Combine that with the constant open loop, and I wouldn't trust their programming. Are you running a stock fuel pump?

 

Aaron... that's a possiblity with the timing. I also spoke with other LPE 383 guys and their initial timing is 6. Something is fishy there for sure. I think it felt better at 6 too.. WAYY more responsive.

I am using an LPE/Accel Fuel Pump. I initially thought the detonation was caused by low fuel delivery..so I had the pump installed. Obviously I didn't need it..but it's cheap insurance.

Not Slo... I'm going to try and get the RIGHT hose in there and stop messing around. This is really becoming aggravating. Just when I think all is right it does something else to pi** me off. I hadn't changed the fuel filter either. Maybe I'll pick one up today.


[Modified by JD 90 383, 10:52 AM 8/30/2001]

 

I'm starting to think of a permanent solution to this problem. Yes... once again I am thinking DFI. This whole timing thing is completely nutso.. Most 383 Guys are at 6 and I'm at 0...It pings at 6.. I just don't get it. Of course I had to send it to LPE not thinking I had a possibly bad fuel hose this whole time. Ay yayay! I can have DFI installed a mere hour away there is a VERY reputable shop that's done lots and lots of cars this way. LPE Said they'd take care of it once more. I'm not spending any more $$$ on shipping though... it adds up. So I am contemplating driving it, or trailering it out there..not sure which. It's not terrible/but not great on gas so we'll see. This is worst case scenario. I don't know if I'd have the luck of installing the fuel hose,and everything would be fine. I have little confidence in this car...and any one of you if you we're in my predicament would feel the same way.

SOO, Let's hear what you would do.

 

JD,

Where is this Hose that you have replaced? is it near the fuel tank? how is it connected on both ends?

I honestly would take the time and do it right. If it connects to hard line on both ends.. Double flare the hard lines and get a piece of Braided line for that spot. As for your timing problem.. I assume the PROM in the car is aftermarket correct? Have you connected a scan tool to record the data?

That will help alot. it is better then trying to guess what it is doing. The other thing that puzzles me about your set-up is it is always in Open loop and sounds like it never goes into Closed loop.. is this correct?

 

you think you have problems now??? DFI can make your head spin. If you have a program for your that works, it can be great, but there are a lot of variables to adjust. If you plan includes a competent programmer and some dyno tuning, then great. It's too bad you don't have an 85 (or i don't have a 90) cause i could send you a chip that i know works for your combo.

btw, i'll take your ECM if you decide to go DFI.


[Modified by ralph, 2:32 PM 8/30/2001]

 

[QUOTE]JD,

Where is this Hose that you have replaced? is it near the fuel tank? how is it connected on both ends? >JD... Umm.. It's hard to explain where it is. It connects the pump to a fitting going in to the tank. I'd sure like to get this in there too. I knew it wouldn't get done right away either. That's just how this guy is.

I honestly would take the time and do it right. If it connects to hard line on both ends.. Double flare the hard lines and get a piece of Braided line for that spot. As for your timing problem.. I assume the PROM in the car is aftermarket correct? Have you connected a scan tool to record the data? Answering: I don't know anyone really that has a scanner. I will say, I liked the feel of the car with the timing at 6. It kinda sucks at 0. Wayy more responsive with it at 6. Half throttle off idle would burn 1-2 like nothing.

That will help alot. it is better then trying to guess what it is doing. The other thing that puzzles me about your set-up is it is always in Open loop and sounds like it never goes into Closed loop.. is this correct?>..... Yep, it always runs in Open Loop. Graham Behan explained it to me..but it was like in another language.. WAYY Too Technical.

 

In the right hands.. a DFI can kick a stock processor in the can. But of course your point is VERY valid.. DFI in the wrong hands is a deadly thing. The place that was all set to do DFI on My Car said half the cars that come there are assembled...but usually don't run :D. I'm going to do this hose thing first.. I know you're all tired of hearing about it AND IF IT WE'RE IN THERE IN THE FIRST PLACE, THIS'D NEVER HAPPEN! I'll let you know how it is after that. I donno.. my luck isn't that great..but it could be the problem. Ralph.. I will also Check the fuel pressure. I am curious now.

Thanks Guys. Progression, or Not I will keep you informed on CHRISTINE :D

 

I just had the timing double checked. It is at 3 degrees initial. Still less than the LPE suggested 6 but whatever. We also checked fuel pressure with the hose on and off. It was around 53 with the hose off and '49-50 with it attached. My mechanic is concerned how quickly it drops off...meaning doesn't hold pressure for long. Possibly a faulty regulator? Now... things are much of the same with this miss. I hadn't replaced the fuel hose yet.. That's tomorrow's project along with a THOROUGH ignition inspection with a plug change. I went for a quick ride to see how things we're. Last test at WOT idle it broke up at the top of 1-2. Now.. I rolled it out easy kept it in 1st and then 3/4'd it to WOT. Bad break up.. miss. Off it,and in to second gear..same thing. It's as though it's back to square one which leads me to believe the home depot hose gave up the ghost(I hope). Like I said.. I apologize I have to post with that still in there. There are enough variables in this without that. So... do you Guys think it could be a misfire from ignition? Or Fuel? We couldn't go for a ride with the pressure gauge due to it having a crack in the lens. Wasn't sure it was worthy to verify things.

Either way... I'll let you know how things go tomorrow. I hope all goes well. This is getting beyond annoying. If it runs strong and hard it's going to E Town Sunday...no ifs ands or butts.

Thank you for ANY replies.

 

Good to remind me, I'll also get a fuel filter along with plugs.

 

Dude, forgive for I did not read everything but I saw "fuel hose" and "Home Depot" something or other. Stop immediately if this is not a pressure rated hose... the thing'll burn faster than you know what!

 

It took a LONG LONG TIME for the standard pressure hose to split...BUT I will take your word for it. I wondered why a few WOT passes it felt good..and now it won't pull clean to WOT. First order of business for the morning.. NEW HP hose. thanks........

 

The braided russell #10 hose is in the tank. From the pump to the strainer or whatever it is. It broke chops a little being so stiff it didn't let the float read the fuel level a few times. I went and filled it, and am hoping for the best.

I had a plug pulled... first thing I noticed is how WHITE it was. Lean I am sure. We we're going to put new one's in FR5LS. I got them this morning. 4 we're good and 4 we're definitely dropped...I'll get 4 more tomorrow. Upon checking the plug.. we decided to see if there was a code.. Sure enough 42 came up. EST I think it was or ETS whatever Ralph told me to check. Where is it exactly? And would it be foolish on my part to get a COMPLETELY NEW Distributor? We're making progress. Plugs are going in Monday as is a new fuel filter...and as soon as I can be told where the ETS or EST is I'll attack it.

Thanks in advance. Good to know the fuel hose is out of the picture.

 

If the plugs are that white, more than likely you're fuel pressure is waaaay off. The only real way to set this is to do a sniff test on a dyno and run the car under load at different RPM levels. Doing it on the street? Difficult indeed. The factory O2 sensors aren't worth a damn when it comes to tuning for A/F ratio. You really need a wideband sensor to do it right. Timing is also a good factor... take one thing at a time. It's real easy to feel that it's all f#$% up, little by little it'll come together...

 

JD,
Man, I've been reading for awhile, and I just hate for ya...I really had nothing to offer you in regards to a reply until you mentioned DFI. I had a Motec system in my 408-inch 89 LX Mustang, and it worked AWESOME. Initially, like all other mods (blowers, turbos, LPE 383's), it had its share of bugs...but when it was all said and done, the car required a parachute to be track-legal and I had to get a 9-sec comp liscense. As for the wideband O2 sensor-read:lean/rich gauge, they're nice (I have an Auto-meter in my a-pillar, as well as a dry fuel pressure gauge...nice not having gas inside the car), they pretty much decorate the car with pretty lights...the only way I know of to accurately determine a lean or rich condition is to stand on it and listen, then start checking plugs...